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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After removing my lifters and inspecting them, I have learned that I need to replace my camshaft and my lifters...

If I'm going to replace the camshaft then I want to do it possibly with something a little better than stock...

I wanted to sound choppy/lopey...

What is a good camshaft and lift a kit that will make my engine sound a little more choppy ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Of the 305 engines, yours is reasonably well tuned for its I tended use and is biased toward more torque than horsepower. If I was choosing a cam, I would stay pretty close to factory specs or just a very small bump up. You might do well, by using a fresh stock cam and invest in an exhaust upgrade, to enhance the sound you desire. A freer flowing exhaust could help more than the cam without destroying drivability.
What are some stock, affordable, and reliable brands of flat tappet camshaft and lifter kits ?

I plan on redoing my whole top end: camshaft, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, rocker balls and nuts, and maybe the valve springs if needed... If I get valve springs what size do I need to look for ?

I hear Melling and Elgin are good good brands, what about Comp, Edelbrock, Voodoo, and the others I should know about ?
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Of the 305 engines, yours is reasonably well tuned for its I tended use and is biased toward more torque than horsepower. If I was choosing a cam, I would stay pretty close to factory specs or just a very small bump up. You might do well, by using a fresh stock cam and invest in an exhaust upgrade, to enhance the sound you desire. A freer flowing exhaust could help more than the cam without destroying drivability.
What are some affordable and reliable brands of flat tappet camshaft and lifter kits ?

I hear Melling and Elgin are good good brands, what about Comp, Edelbrock, Voodoo, and the others I should know about ?
I've used those cams in 350, 327, & 305 engines without any issues. These were definitely not 11.0:1 compression engines. I'd be shocked if they were 9.0:1.
The factory L69 305 had a compression ratio of 9.5:1, flat top pistons...I use 91 octane non ethanol, 87 runs like crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
L69: 202/206, .403/.415, 114.5
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
How about that photo of the RPO codes in your glovebox??????? See if yours is really a L69 and a SS.
I looked up the VIN number and it's not an SS...

What I'm assuming to be an l69 doesn't have the same bolt pattern as the Chevy TH350C transmission I have.

See how different the motor mounts to the transmission ?
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I think this is a Buick motor with l69 heads on it... The head casting numbers show l69 but the block itself shows 1983 to 1984 305 motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Of the 305 engines, yours is reasonably well tuned for its I tended use and is biased toward more torque than horsepower. If I was choosing a cam, I would stay pretty close to factory specs or just a very small bump up. You might do well, by using a fresh stock cam and invest in an exhaust upgrade, to enhance the sound you desire. A freer flowing exhaust could help more than the cam without destroying drivability.
What are some affordable and reliable brands of flat tappet camshaft and lifter kits ?

I hear Melling and Elgin are good good brands, what about Comp, Edelbrock, Voodoo, and the others I should know about ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
If it came with a L69 it will say so on the RPO list. If it came with something else, it will tell you what. It will also tell you what rear end you have.
My glove box doesn't have an RPO list...
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However I do have the title with the VIN number on it and I also have the original owners manual that came with the car...
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It's too late to go out there and take a picture of my VIN number right now and the picture I have is blurry which is why I'm showing you my title... But my engine code is 9 and the car originally came with a 3.8 229 CID V6 motor...

Here is the current block number for the motor that is currently in the engine.. when I googled these numbers, it says it's in 83 to 84 305... I don't have a picture handy, but I also took a picture of the head casting numbers under the valve covers and those numbers brought up high output heads.
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Unless you have specific wear, I would just clean up the rockers and pushrods and re-use.
I'm not for sure about specific wear, I just visually assumed those things were okay.. I did clean the push rods and I cleaned parts of the rockers and the rocker balls and set everything back just as I pulled them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
If I was choosing a cam, I would stay pretty close to factory specs or just a very small bump up.
What is a "small bump up" from a stock L69 camshaft ?

I just want something bigger than stock without having to mess with stock pushrods, rocker arms, or valve springs.

Then they should be just fine for this. I would guess the heads are original to the motor so if they are H.O........

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Gotcha, when I pull out this camshaft we'll know for sure if it's an H.O. or not. I will also do a roller test with the rods and show you guys some pictures of my rocker arms when I get to that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
@Tynan918

My question to you is do you want a smooth stock idle or a noticeable idle (choppy) from the engine or have you changed your mind?
If you stay somewhere near the original camshaft's specs it will sound "stock". If you want a noticeable idle you will need to use a tighter LSA or more duration or both.
I want a noticeable idle, but nothing too big. I don't want to have to change my springs or get any longer rods and rocker arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I think he wants it to get him back and forth to work until he can afford a better engine. This 305 is not worth putting significant money into. But he is between a rock and a hard place with transportation. Almost 25% leakdown on some cyl and cost to rebuild a 305 is the same as a 350. New cam is to get him by because it is flat. At least thats how I understand it.

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You remember my leak down test? I don't remember if I shared that here or not...

The motor ran pretty strong, it was just that damn tick, and now that I have inspected the lifters and somewhat of the camshaft lobes, it's considered that I should at least change the camshaft and lifters since I can't afford an engine swap at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
If you're interested in saving a few dollars check out the Summit Racing brand hydraulic camshaft # SUM-1102. It is Summit's version of the Edelbrock Performer-plus camshaft for a SBC.
Probably the lowest cost answer is the Summit 1103 with 214/224 at .050 lift having total lift of .444/.466 on an LSA of 112. After that Summit 1104 at 224/224 with lift of .466/.466 on a 114 LSA.
Someone else local was mentioning using the Summit 1103 in his 383 and sent me a video of his engine running so I could hear the sound of it...

Sounded good and choppy, but he also has open headers I believe.
 
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