I have my car done with 2 coats of clear. It has dried and I wet sanded everything down smooth. Will putting two more coats of clear on the car make the end result any more glossy compared to only having two coats?
Maybe, but not really because you have a total of 4 coats of clear vs 2.
It comes down to distinction of image, although you could probably get a pretty good doi if you have enough clear applied cut it real flat and with proper buffing removing the scratches you put in sanding. All things being equal, same products and conditions, the more flat and scratch free the surface is, the more glossy it should appear.
If you cut that first round of clear flat and have the flat sanded clear, acting kind of like a sealer for a base, vs just spraying base then clear and stacking up texture. The base I guess you can say seems to want to suck up the first coat of clear and you often have metallic or pearl to get buried as well. Clear always seems to lay down nicer and easier over sanded clear vs a basecoated surface. Many do the very thing your asking about on show jobs ( a flow coat). I often do them, because I screw up so much, lol.
Most cut the first round of clear flat, then often use a lower solids clear for the next clearing session, to lay down as flat and free of orange peel and urethane peel as possible. But just so you know, just because you applied a total of 4 coats (two before, two after sanding), since applied in two sessions, you don't actually have 4 coats of clear to work (only 2 or however many you applied the second session) with if sanding and buffing. Often if you cut through the second layers of clear into the previously applied clear, it will leave a very distinctive ring where cut through, but it does disappear if its recleared again.
You can do a search for flow coats and here is also a thread http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/urethane-peel-why-we-get-oem-doesnt-74323.html
Alot depends on how much orange peel you have in the final clearcoat. I have started with 1000, then 1500, and fianl sanding with 2000, then buff. If the CC has very little OP, then you may get away with 1500, then 2000.............320-400...you will see every scratch
I would think too that as course as 320 and you would see scratches, but others here who do good work and I trust have stated they use that grit. I think it has something to do with the fact clear has no pigment and your reapplying clear on top. I have yet to get out and experiment and try it. But with that course, I would think you would need to have a good amount of clear applied, and be very carefull around edges, so you don't break through to base. We are not talking sanding for buffing here sunset, we are talking flattening clear and reclearing. Surely with 320 for buffing you would have a very difficult time stepping down and getting those course of scratches out and also not breaking through or leaving on enough mil thickness.
A finer grit is perfectly fine, but it may take a fairly course grit if the goal is to rid of urethane peel (Moderate orange peel cuts out fairly easily, but urethane peel can prove more difficult).
For normal reclearing of a panel, I normally use 800. Your 600 will be perfectly fine as well. The ones that are going with that course are looking for something more in there paint job, with the goal of being as free of urethane peel as possible. Trying to jog my memory of some of the many things I've picked up from this site, but I think in an old thread somewhere in the archives, Barry K once after stated after doing some test panels, he found around 320-400 gave the best doi when measured with a meter.
Too bad that a few things that have happened over the years have caused many old members to stop visiting, and you don't pick up that kind of information often here anymore. Hopefully some will eventually straggle back in, as talk of things like rustoleum and people who have painted one beater car in there life, stop arguring with veteren painters who are willing to pass on tips for something more then a used car lot repair.
Personaly,I use 600 then a quick breeze over with 800 then the red scuff pad with an abrasive cleaner (like comet) and water for around wheel wells etc...then an adheasion promoter in the tight spots just to make sure but the car cures for at least a week first...but thats on my nice work,I hate buffing...
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