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More for Less Racer
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You've got the bearing pushed too far into the fork, it doesn't ride in that position.

The two end tabs of the fork should be at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock on the lip of the bearing when the bearing is centered on the diaphragm clutch fingers.
 

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Burnt out transmission tech.
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Yup.

You've got the bearing pushed too far into the fork, it doesn't ride in that position.

The two end tabs of the fork should be at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock on the lip of the bearing when the bearing is centered on the diaphragm clutch fingers.
What he said. :pimp:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You've got the bearing pushed too far into the fork, it doesn't ride in that position.

The two end tabs of the fork should be at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock on the lip of the bearing when the bearing is centered on the diaphragm clutch fingers.
I don't understand
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I posted the picture of the boot to show how distressed it is in a tested position. Is that not a problem??
 

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Don't worry about the boot.


Look into the bearing and eyeball it centered on the bushing in the crank.
Unless everthing is installed the boot won't look right.

The bearing is not aligned with the fork fingers.
 

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Are you sure you have the clutch fork pivot ball at the correct length??

I don't remember what the exact distance is, Centerforce tech told me 25 or so years ago. Something like 6.75" from the block mounting face of the bell to the tip of the pivot ball. You should confirm with your clutch company what that dimension needs to be for their clutch.

1/8" difference in pivot ball height will make the outer end of the arm move nearly 7/8".
 

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Ericnova, you saw it and I didn't. I didn't even notice how far the bearing was pushed into the fork. I was just looking at the shape of the fork and it doesn't look like what I'm use to seeing. It still doesn't look like it's quite long enough.
 

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Pull the bell from your engine and bolt it to your transmission. That will tell you if the fork is the correct length or not.

You should be able to slide the bearing on the input shaft easily.

If you have not done so yet. Pull your clutch and align the bell to your engine within 5 mill using a magnetic base/caliper while your here and change your locating pins if need be.
 

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Ericnova, you saw it and I didn't. I didn't even notice how far the bearing was pushed into the fork. I was just looking at the shape of the fork and it doesn't look like what I'm use to seeing. It still doesn't look like it's quite long enough.

Move the bearing closer to the outer edges of the fork.
Centre it in the hole.
Can't get much easier than that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Are you sure you have the clutch fork pivot ball at the correct length??

I don't remember what the exact distance is, Centerforce tech told me 25 or so years ago. Something like 6.75" from the block mounting face of the bell to the tip of the pivot ball. You should confirm with your clutch company what that dimension needs to be for their clutch.

1/8" difference in pivot ball height will make the outer end of the arm move nearly 7/8".
Yes, I measured for the correct pivot ball length.
My measurements are a bit different because of the depth of the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Alright, I backed the bearing a bit out of the fork and it seems to have helped the alignment, but now I have a new problem.
It looks like the bearing isn't sitting center.
It's seems to be sitting a little bit higher than its suppose to and it's not covering the surface area on the pressure plate.
I'm also a little concerned with the stress displayed on the boot. It's making me think there's a wrong part involved.
This is my 1st time installing clutches and bearings.
 

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Dont worry about the bearing. The input shaft and bearing retainer will go through the bearing and center it up. Until you put the transmission in place the bearing can move all over and itll cause all the linkages to be misaligned.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 

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What car is this going in, which bell housing do you have and what is the clutch fork suppose to fit? It still looks to me like this clutch fork is too short.

I had to modify a Quick Time bell housing yesterday to fit a G body car because the pivot ball was in the wrong location and the bearing would not line up with the center of the crankshaft. You may have some mixed up parts that are keeping things for working correctly.
 

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Dont worry about the bearing. The input shaft and bearing retainer will go through the bearing and center it up. Until you put the transmission in place the bearing can move all over and itll cause all the linkages to be misaligned.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk



What he said. :pimp:



You are making this too difficult.
 

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If you simply pull the bell off, bolt it to your transmission, slide the bearing over the input shaft, snap the fork in place, measure your slave stroke, and move the fork that distance you will know many things.

You will know;
The bearing is aligned on the input within the fork correctly
The bearing can travel the length without it being binded by the fork.
The bearing will not fall or slip off the fork at full stroke.
The fork does not hit anything during travel.

If you pull the bell and slap it on the transmission and find a issue it is the fork or bearing.

Tons easier to spend 10 minutes on a shop floor with just the bell and transmission then to put the transmission up under the car and find that your binding or the bearing has fallen off the fork.

In your case the fork would be to short and you would only be pushing in the bearing part way when the clutch petal is fully depressed. Basically floating the clutch every time which can lead to a short clutch life.
 
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