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The clutch release lever spring in my Nova is rubbing against the header as shown in the picture. Is this a major problem considering the heat those headers generate? Will the spring snap at some point because of it? There isn't really a better spot to hook that spring up in the current configuration, so I was just curious what you guys think.
616120
 

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I’ve seen a shorter spring hooked to a big hose clamp installed on one header tube.

Better than what you got there.
 

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That is on the roadkill level of things. Personally, I think it would be best to beat the headers back or get new headers that are out of the way.
 

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Looks like there is a eye bolt attaching to spring. Fab you a piece of steel that will allow spring to be between the 2 tubes.
 

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Looking closer at your pic brings up a question.
Why is the spring hooked up to somewhere at the front of the motor.
It should be hooked up to the end of the clutch fork and then ahead to the frame rail.
 

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Hydraulic clutch throwout bearing.
Boom fixed several headaches at once.

Bit of work to get it in and working with what you have. But it would be what I would run to fix the clearence and other issues your having here.
 

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Hydraulic clutch throwout bearing.
Boom fixed several headaches at once.

Bit of work to get it in and working with what you have. But it would be what I would run to fix the clearence and other issues your having here.
Yea , fixed , except for all the reported adjustment woes , fitment problems , slow reaction , lack of feel & potential ( common) leaks , yea , that'll fix it alright ! Mechanical linkage is dirt simple & generally durable & bullet proof ,last thing I want in my bell housing is unnecessary fluid !
 

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Ok if you want to keep the mechanical then move the spring under the dash.

Now run your linkage so it uses a bell crank which will allow for you to add holes and adjust the linkage before making a final piece with just 3 holes. You can even use heims to eliminate slop.
 

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That's just typical '67-81 Camaro and '68-79 Nova header fitment, I have not heard of a single company making a long tube header for those cars that doesn't require you to relocate the clutch return spring.....they are all that way.
At least that's been my experience.
Some company's list of fit exceptions gets buried in the footnotes at the bottom of the catalog or instruction sheet...."except with manual clutch linkage".... "won't fit angle plug heads".... "won't fit wide sump oil pan".... yadda yadda yadda.

Johnsongrass1 has the solution above^^^
 

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Ok if you want to keep the mechanical then move the spring under the dash.

Now run your linkage so it uses a bell crank which will allow for you to add holes and adjust the linkage before making a final piece with just 3 holes. You can even use heims to eliminate slop.
The spring is to keep the TO bearing from riding on the clutch fingers , pulling from under the dash via linkage would be kinda silly , like johnsongrass1 said ,fabricate an appropriate bracket ,may not be a 1-800 credit card solution .
 

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There is a good chance that with enough fiddling about with that spring then the linkage rod will fall off the fork.
Then he’ll be hooped.
 
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