[Paco]

opinions will differ, but this is what works for me: if you use PPG products, base/clear or single stage urethane, and if you let the paint air dry, 24 hrs should be long enough. If you wait much longer, it will be much harder to sand and buff the paint. I tape all edges and high peaks with masking tape, wet sand area with 1000 grit, then 1500, then 2000 (a little soap in the water helps also) until all the orange peel and surface debris is gone. This can be detected by wiping the sanded ared dry to see if any "shiney spots" still appear on the surface, if so, keep sanding. Let the sandpaper do the work, you are not rough sanding at this stage, dont get too exited and work it too hard..if you break thru the clear coat or on a single stage job, thru the paint to primer, you have just screwed up...When you have everything sanded to suit you, wash everything with soap and water. Once everything is clean, I use a CP pnuematic buffer with foam pads(different color pads for different degrees of buffing, heavy, medium, light, etc.) The pads are color coded and state on them what cut they are for. I use a buffing compound called "Production", it's pink kinda like Pepto-Bismal...do an area no larger than about 3'X 3' at one time. Keep buffing that same area until it shines like you want it. After you have done the entire car to your satisfaction, then you can use swirl mark remover (PPG, MEGUIRES, etc) to bring the shine to top shelf appearence. This is a long, drawn out, hard work process, but the end results will be worth it. If you dont have a high dollar paint booth, this is about your only salvation, as much work after the paint as before the paint. But it will make a distinct difference in the appearence of your paint job when you are complete. Hope this helps...PACO

 

[Paco]

Absolutely use a sanding block. You can get them in various lengths, but the type made of a hard rubber compound with a slot in each end with the "tacks" to hold the paper works best for me.(4-5" long block,the type that you can squeeze and feel it give, not the hard plastic type.) If you cut your paper the right way,(across the short way) you can get about 4 pieces out of it just right for these blocks.(they usually sell 1000grit and lighter in half sheets, so you'll only get half as many pieces). If you have tight spots or slightly curved spots to deal with, take a paint stirring stick, cut it off about 3-4 inches long (about the same width as your sanding block)wrap the sand paper around it and use it for a block. NEVER wet sand with your fingers and paper only, unless it is just not practical to get to it with a block. You can't achieve a smooth, flat surface with your fingers and paper, it may appear you will, but it don't work that way. USE A BLOCK...With the light grit paper, you are not going to cut too much, but don't get radical and stay in one spot too long, it is sand paper, and it will eventually cut thru if you stay too long in one spot. Once again, the block will help you over come this. Tape your edges and high spots with masking tape so you dont sand over them, you can always lightly sand those areas after the remainder is done to your satisfaction. An edge or peak in a fender will sand off before you realize it, the tape helps prevent that from happening. Do the same thing when buffing, it also works there too. Speaking of buffing, let the buffer do the work, don't bear down on it and dont concentrate in one small area, you'll either burn thru or heat the paint and pile it up like waves. Use the buffer at a slight angle so the front half of the pad contacts the surface, not the entire pad. You are not waxing, you are buffing. I use a Chicago Pnuematic CP685 air polisher rated at 2500 rpm with different foam pads made by SCHLEGEL. The black pad=heavy cut, yellow=medium cut, green=light cut/polish, blue=soft polish, white=final finish. This subject is one of those things that any number of people could tell you how to do, and they would all answer you differently...and they may all work just as well. My way isn't perfect, it IS time consuming and a lot of work, but, it works for me, and if you do it like I have said, it'll work for you. Just don't expect it to happen in a couple of hours...or even a couple of days if you are new to it. Take you time, be careful, and you can make you paint look like a million bucks for just a few dollars worth of investment and a lot of elbow grease....