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I just bought a 63 Impala SS that was pretty much sanded down to bare metal and left for 3-4 years so it's covered with surface rust. What's the best route to take to get it back to good bare metal? I was planning on using a DA sander with 80 grit and just sanding it to death. I heard that sandblasting will warp the metal and I called a media blast shop and they told me media blasting won't remove rust. Anybody been through this before?
 

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i had a studie coupe that someone put a plastic tarp over, same problem as yours. i sanded all the loose stuff off then sprayed it with POR black this stuff is magic. hard as a rock, i let it set for a few days then scuffed it used a water based sealer then did all body work etc, painted the car pearl white . the rust did not bleed or pop or anything for over eight years maybe longer (i sold the car) sold me on the stuff, now all my frames and inner fenders get it. saves a fantastic amount of work.
 

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Soda blasting removes rust...light rust and won't warp your panels. The finish is nice too as it is a satin finish. Sand blasting is too agressive and walnut shells not agressive enough to remove paint. Phone around.
 

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Sandblasting will warp our body as it tends to heat up the meal, for small areas and potmarks though it is ok.
 

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If it has light surface rust there shouldn't be a problem feathering the rust off with the d/a sander.I wouldn't use 80 grit if I didn't have to but if so, try to finish it with something finer like 220 or higher. The smoother the metal the less that the primer filler has to cover and the less scratches that will tend to show up after the undercoats and topcoats have cured. I haven't tried the soda blasting but that would be alot less time consuming. :D
 

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If you find some good sugar sand in a farmers field it makes a good blasting media for rust or paint removal. It is not as harsh as blasting sand. I stripped the entire body of my 57 with this method and had no problems with warping. Just dont hold it one spot too long.

Chris
 

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I tried soda blasting, but all it did was leave my car sticky with fiels all over it :D

Seriously though, what is soda blasting? I have not heard of it, but I will freely admit I don't know much. Is it like plastic media blasting?
 

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I read a tip in the latest Street Rodder that a mix of 1 part molassis to 10 parts water works but it takes awhile. Myself I've been repairing rusty cars for a living for the most part of 12 yrs now & I swear by "Rust Destroyer" because it lasts. Comes in spraycans too, you scuff the loose rust off and put it on. Its guaranteed for 5 yrs to stop the rust returning but I've not seen any comebacks in 12, but Ive seen a few I did back then, still rustfree. It doubles as a primer for any top-coat, can't beat it.Check it out <a href="http://www.rust007.com/html/body_rust_destroyer.htm" target="_blank">http://www.rust007.com/html/body_rust_destroyer.htm</a>
Good luck either way.
 

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So, you say you got no money and plenty of time. Need something for a family unity project? Try this!
Buy a case of Comet cleanser and some scotch brite pads and go to town. Get all the bulk of the rust off. Do this with the family. Next, go to NAPA and buy rubber gloves, eye protection, old clothes and some Muratic acid. Do this one while sober and with intelligent people. Wash the car with brite pads and the acid. Be careful around the rubber areas.
Rinse for about a half hour, and then wash with comet again to neutralize the acid.
Thats what I do and it works very nicely.
 

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richall, Here's what I did (and why) When you're going to spend a bunch on a paint job, that is work AND money, I don't believe in taking chances. The job's only as good as the preperation. I bought about a dozen of those big black narly ugly 3m stripper wheels with the attached mandrel. Chucked 'em into my 3/8 drill and started stripping. Now this was after the paint had been media blasted off. The wheels took the surfaces down to clean, bare metal without warp or deep gouging. They work fairly fast but at 7 bucks a wheel they cost a little. I used a small spot blaster with aluminum oxide for the pits. coated the areas with a thin wash coat of acid etch primer to hold the surface. Perfectly clean base means the paint won't lift!!
 

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stuff I use is this rust remover I get from canadian tire here in canada... It turns the rust into this flakey white **** and then you just clean it off. Sometimes you have to hit it a couple times.
 

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ON page eight, there is a thread called rust which I started sometime back when I went through the same thing. There are some really good answers in there. I would suggest reading. <img src="graemlins/mwink.gif" border="0" alt="[mwink]" />
 

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I'VE USED RUST-MORT, WHICH SEEMED TO BE GUD STUFF, AND AFTER THAT USED ZERO-RUST ON THE FLOOR WHICH DITTO, I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THIS POR STUFF THO CRANEMAN
 

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Tongue on the drop light? I like the soda blast and rust-mort the finish off the prep before priming. Spritz on the mort, its easier than brushing and works well. :D This is an acid so be CAREFUL! :eek:
 

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I used por-15 extensively in the rebuild of my '42 Ford business coup. I lile it a lot. It does what they say it will do. It has been about 2 years & so far no rust has popped through nor has it peeled or chipped. Just follow the directions. I used it on the trunk, floorboards, and the entire underneath side of the car. Phil
 

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I have also used por-15 and it has done wonders for my frame and cab mounts and many other parts. It is a three step process first you use their degreaser(I used simple green),then metal ready which puts a zink coating, then their paint. I even applied all of it with a brush.(buy a bunch because when it dries it's as hard as a rock and not even gas or thinner would soften the brushes up. ) I was told it was a self leveling paint and they told the truth because it is as smooth as a babies butt :eek: ). I know because I have 5 kids and twins on the way!
Best of luck
-Mario
 
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