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Coolant in oil. Need help identifying cause.

3141 Views 84 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  eric32
This is sort of related to my other post regarding a cam swap. In the process of learning more about that process, it was discovered that the dumped oil contains a good amount of coolant. The results of the oil test can be found here. Suffice it to say, there is coolant in the oil. So I am now taking a detour on my way to a different cam as this issue will have to be addressed first.

I am looking for help identifying where the coolant may be seeping into the oil. I will do a pressure test tomorrow, but for now I have pulled the spark plugs out and stuck an endoscope into all the cylinders. The results are below. Note that the truck has not been driven or started in about 3 days prior to my doing this work.
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Here are some picture from the endoscope. All pistons look about the same - pretty carboned up. Some, however, have what appears to be moisture. Can you guy draw any conclusions?

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I had a different type of a problem with my previous engine and know how frustrating it is to have to wait for a machine shop but a few months is nothing compared to almost two years with problem after problem with a new build. I had a new build done in 2021 that took forever for things to get done with the covid junk shutdown stuff and eventually got it put together for it to only have a decking problem with the block that would not allow my coolant ports on the top of my intake to seal and it sweated antifreeze when not running and sitting.

Deck was off so bad the furthest piston in one direction was zero deck or above deck by a few thousandths and then the furthest piston in the other direction was at least minimum .010 in the hole or more. Did not have time to have block checked to see how much as I did not want to mess with that much hassle.

Got a new block and had to wait till I had enough funds and then finally after about 10 months I did and then had to wait another 90 days for a machine shop till they would be done with everything in my area since race season is done they were booked so far out that they initially did not want to do my stuff but after saying I was building it myself they took me in but I was the last they would take.

If my time was only a few months I would have loved that but just hang in there and do it the right way and be patient with time and not jump the gun and later regret it. I have been there before in other ways and lost out on funds and only have to spend even more to correct my last mistake. Best of luck on your build and hope you are able to get it fixed and all together again soon.
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That engine says 410 ftlbs of torque and I would think for a daily driver deal that would be a heck of a good enough engine to get a full size truck going if that is what you have. If you want every last ounce of power then I would recommend a Holley or better yet a Quick fuel brawler or slayer 750 vacuum secondary carb or if you want a little less power on top and a bit more throttle response signal and crisper throttler response on the low and mid range then a 650 vacuum secondary Brawler carb would be the best since you would have more tuning options vs a Holley brand classic carb of equal price range etc.

I would say a double pumper as well but don't know your vehicle and gear ratio and transmission type etc and they are more picky about size and setup vs a vacuum secondary carb if your wanting a Holley style carb. If an edelbrock style then I would recommend the AVS 2 which is an upgrade to the older AVS and better then the Edelbrock performer carbs. That crate would be something I would get in a heartbeat is I had to not want to wait for something and if I could not get anything anytime soon with parts shortage stuff and would just want to get my ride going in short order. I have heard some good about blueprint stuff over the years but a few negatives as well but that is normal with any business especially when it comes to hotrod stuff.

My current build is very similar too that itself as a 350 dart shp block with scat crank and forged scat rods and dart pro 1 200cc aluminum heads ported and an edelbrock dual plane intake with custom hydraulic roller cam 268/276 216/[email protected] 510/510 lift and 112 lsa. Putting on a custom Holley 600 vacuum secondary and then later this summer a 650 Holley HP style double pumper Brawler carb.
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When using that stuff I let it sit for a few days to cure up good enough and don't let any fluids make contact with it. I like to make sure its cured good first before adding any antifreeze to the system.
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