[ericnova72]

From what I've seen....it's going to have to be completely torn down.
You don't like to do it over, and dislike waiting even more....how do you feel about doing it over 2 or 3 times??
All the while waiting anyway since many parts are still supply disrupted.

You remember that oil analysis you had done, in a previous thread.??....levels of lead, tin, copper all high....lead/tin/copper is the layers of overlay in the main, rod, and cam bearings.....which are all being damaged by that debris material from the cam and lifter being pumped through them.

You just put new parts in, they'll be getting ground up by that debris as well.
DON'T cross your fingers and hope that the fancy lifter coating will save you.....it won't.
Might as well just set the money on fire and watch it burn.

 

[joshbarnett]

From what I've seen....it's going to have to be completely torn down.
You don't like to do it over, and dislike waiting even more....how do you feel about doing it over 2 or 3 times??
All the while waiting anyway since many parts are still supply disrupted.

You remember that oil analysis you had done, in a previous thread.??....levels of lead, tin, copper all high....lead/tin/copper is the layers of overlay in the main, rod, and cam bearings.....which are all being damaged by that debris material from the cam and lifter being pumped through them.

You just put new parts in, they'll be getting ground up by that debris as well.
DON'T cross your fingers and hope that the fancy lifter coating will save you.....it won't.
Might as well just set the money on fire and watch it burn.

Always appreciate your input.

 

[Eduramac]

It would appear that the Thumpr cam I had was on its way out anyway. Glad I'm swapping it. Check this out.

New video by Zarif Alimov

photos.app.goo.gl

Yes sir she is done.

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

I will consider it. Sucks that a turnaround time for a good machine shop is going to be like 2 months. And I hate waiting. I hate waiting more than I hate doing things over.

Definitely looks like you found out why the vehicle was sold. My 2001 Blazer was something like that. Absolute creampuff - so much so that I was blinded to major engine problems. I ended up putting a Goodwrench crate engine in it so I could drive it in the snow that year instead of work on it. That was 70K miles ago.

At least it is Winter now and not Summer driving time!

The problem is that the microscopic metal particles go everywhere and will cause wear to happen much faster if they are not removed completely. We are not just talking about the lifter faces. We are talking about in the oil pasages, down the valve guides, in the rod/main/cam bearings, on the piston walls, oil pump gears, between the rings, etc. So maybe you get 20K miles instead of 100K miles (just as an example, not as fact). If the engine is otherwise fresh it seems a shame to not do it right before wear sets in.

This is in contrast to another thread I am involved in where just a cam is being done after multiple cam lobe failures. In that case we are just trying to get an old worn-out 305 running again. He has been warned a long time ago. I hope he remembers the warning and doesn't expect a long engine life. If he can get past the cam break in, he should be OK for some time until the metal particles have taken their toll on the rest of the engine. Yours would be the same.

If you have a place to work on it, and are willing to buy an engine stand and good torque wrench and anything else that you need - there is no reason why you can't disassemble and assemble short block yourself if that is interesting to you. Still need machine shop for washing block, polishing crank, and measuring things - but it would be a lot shorter wait I expect. If you find that the block needs major work for any reason, you might consider going to a late block that has factory roller cam provisions. Or you might just punt right away and stab a crate engine in - recouping part of the cost by selling your old engine. Or you could buy a short block kit. Lots of ways to go.

 

[eric32]

I had a different type of a problem with my previous engine and know how frustrating it is to have to wait for a machine shop but a few months is nothing compared to almost two years with problem after problem with a new build. I had a new build done in 2021 that took forever for things to get done with the covid junk shutdown stuff and eventually got it put together for it to only have a decking problem with the block that would not allow my coolant ports on the top of my intake to seal and it sweated antifreeze when not running and sitting.

Deck was off so bad the furthest piston in one direction was zero deck or above deck by a few thousandths and then the furthest piston in the other direction was at least minimum .010 in the hole or more. Did not have time to have block checked to see how much as I did not want to mess with that much hassle.

Got a new block and had to wait till I had enough funds and then finally after about 10 months I did and then had to wait another 90 days for a machine shop till they would be done with everything in my area since race season is done they were booked so far out that they initially did not want to do my stuff but after saying I was building it myself they took me in but I was the last they would take.

If my time was only a few months I would have loved that but just hang in there and do it the right way and be patient with time and not jump the gun and later regret it. I have been there before in other ways and lost out on funds and only have to spend even more to correct my last mistake. Best of luck on your build and hope you are able to get it fixed and all together again soon.

 

[joshbarnett]

At least it is Winter now and not Summer driving time!

Well, in Scottsdale where I live, 'tis the season for driving. Summer is when park your classic cars and wait till October.

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

Well, in Scottsdale where I live, 'tis the season for driving. Summer is when park your classic cars and wait till October.

Crate engine is the fastest way!

 

[joshbarnett]

Crate engine is the fastest way!

You read my mind. I was just browsing them. What do you think of this one?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp35513ct1/make/chevrolet

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

You read my mind. I was just browsing them. What do you think of this one?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp35513ct1/make/chevrolet

Looks like a pretty nice little 355. I can't speak for Blueprint quality, but they make a lot of engines! This one has roller cam and 4-bolt mains - so good deal there. A little on the racy side at 390 hp but if you want some camshaft lope.... It would do you nicely with a good dual plane intake and a 750 CFM carb. But if it was me, for a truck I would be looking for a 383. So much more torque down low to get that heavy beast going after the stop light.

 

[eric32]

That engine says 410 ftlbs of torque and I would think for a daily driver deal that would be a heck of a good enough engine to get a full size truck going if that is what you have. If you want every last ounce of power then I would recommend a Holley or better yet a Quick fuel brawler or slayer 750 vacuum secondary carb or if you want a little less power on top and a bit more throttle response signal and crisper throttler response on the low and mid range then a 650 vacuum secondary Brawler carb would be the best since you would have more tuning options vs a Holley brand classic carb of equal price range etc.

I would say a double pumper as well but don't know your vehicle and gear ratio and transmission type etc and they are more picky about size and setup vs a vacuum secondary carb if your wanting a Holley style carb. If an edelbrock style then I would recommend the AVS 2 which is an upgrade to the older AVS and better then the Edelbrock performer carbs. That crate would be something I would get in a heartbeat is I had to not want to wait for something and if I could not get anything anytime soon with parts shortage stuff and would just want to get my ride going in short order. I have heard some good about blueprint stuff over the years but a few negatives as well but that is normal with any business especially when it comes to hotrod stuff.

My current build is very similar too that itself as a 350 dart shp block with scat crank and forged scat rods and dart pro 1 200cc aluminum heads ported and an edelbrock dual plane intake with custom hydraulic roller cam 268/276 216/[email protected] 510/510 lift and 112 lsa. Putting on a custom Holley 600 vacuum secondary and then later this summer a 650 Holley HP style double pumper Brawler carb.

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

The intake bolts like the head bolts penetrate into the cooling jackets. The powder that came out with the intake bolts was either corrosion from coolant leakage or the failed remainder of some sort of sealer. The intake and cylinder head fastener holes are open to the cooling passages or in the intake case some open into oily places so must use a sealer on the threads that is proof against failure by coolant which carry's either some sort of glycol ethylene or propylene being the most common which is a solvent material and contains an Inorganic Acid Technology or the an Organic Acid Technology (OAT) like original Dexcool or Hybred Organic Acid Technology that the Euros and Asians like but these are not the same mix where Euro HOAT uses a silicate base which is good where people introduce hard water into the cooling system while the Asian’s use a phosphate inhibitor that is intolerant of the chemistry of hard water so this coolant must be blended with distilled or deionized water. Which really should be used in all coolant solutions, not the stuff from your house’s or a gas station’s water tap. All of these chemistries have differing reactions and consumable additive life times. So it’s easy to find corrosion or deposition products with fasteners which often are plated thus developing other reaction in their joints. Note for Chevrolet and others that you don’t find plated fasteners on or in the engine because the plating provides another reactant in the joint.

Teflon tape is really meant to seal plumbing threads which in the US are a tapered thread where bolted joints are a straight thread. To a large extent straight threads seal better with paste sealer than tape, though Chevy puts a Teflon coating on their head bolts but is usually damaged by the time you get them. In the past and to some extent I still use Teflon based or infused plumbers thread sealer. But I find it’s not always resistant to constant exposure to engine coolant or oil and is certainly unsuitable for solvent fuels like gasoline. I’ve pretty much returned to old fashion Permatex No 2 or 3 as it doesn’t depend on a cure to form a washout resistant thread seal and it’s lubricity is close to 30 wt engine oil which is used as the thread lubrication material for most stated fastener torque tables You may assume this is true unless otherwise stated. This establishes the ratio of torque applied to stretch achieved when tightening a fastener. So changes in the lubricity within the threads from bare to moly or Teflon or RTV in the joint changes the torque applied to stretch achieved ratio.

So you need a sealer and lubricant in the bolted joints that is resistant to coolant and oil while sealing straight threads and providing thread lubricity that acts like 30 wt engine oil all at the same time.

Bogie

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

A 390 hp 383 would run circles around a 390 hp 355, and be a lot more streetable in the process because max torque would be higher and occur at a lower RPM. Question is if he wants to pony up the difference in price.

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

I just stumbled on this. Read "Very Important Note" right after the 4th photo here. IIRC you have an Edelbrock EPS manifold.
AFR ENFORCER 200cc HEADS CHEVY 350 383 65cc STRAIGHT PLUG 272-AFR | Skip White Performance - We have the best prices you will ever find for aluminum heads, rotating assemblies and strokers

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

390 horsepower is a measure of work accomplished. The result would be the same assuming the gearing of each engine was favorable to where that power appears on the RPM curve.

Bogie

 

[joshbarnett]

I'm not really looking for a lot of power. I want this truck to be a daily cruiser. If it makes 250 hp, I'm good. I want a reliable engine and if crate is the route I gotta go, so be it.

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

390 horsepower is a measure of work accomplished. The result would be the same assuming the gearing of each engine was favorable to where that power appears on the RPM curve.

Bogie

For sake of discussion, why don't we assume no gear ratio change and that engine will definitely not be operating at maximum horsepower at that stoplight?

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

I'm not really looking for a lot of power. I want this truck to be a daily cruiser. If it makes 250 hp, I'm good. I want a reliable engine and if crate is the route I gotta go, so be it.

Then I am hearing the 383 is not worth the extra cost to you. I would snap up that 355 crate you spec'd before it is gone (last one at Summit). The price seems pretty good. Seems Blueprint is obsoleting them and changing to a version that uses their new block.

 

[joshbarnett]

Quick questions. Head bolts. Watched a few videos on how to put them back on. Obviously they need some thread sealer as they go into the coolant jacket, but the videos all talk about having a thread locker on the bolts. So is it one or the other? Or is it one the same? I was going to put this on the threads and nothing else:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTX-80632

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

Quick questions. Head bolts. Watched a few videos on how to put them back on. Obviously they need some thread sealer as they go into the coolant jacket, but the videos all talk about having a thread locker on the bolts. So is it one or the other? Or is it one the same? I was going to put this on the threads and nothing else:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTX-80632

That's the stuff you want on clean dry threads. It is a PTFE sealer, not a thread locker.

 

[joshbarnett]

That's the stuff you want on clean dry threads. It is a PTFE sealer, not a thread locker.

So what do I need?