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Discussion Starter #1
350 sbc stock block. machine shop I bought it from said it was a high nickle content block.

-Victor Jr 215cc heads 2.08 / 1.60 set up for solid roller
70cc chambers
-vivtor jr intake with port matching
-850 might demon carb, may be overkill
-wiseco .040 over pistons for 6 inch rod 8cc dome
I think it is around 11:1
-6 inch small journal eagle h-beam rods
-summit brand roller rockers. I have heard they perfrom well
-stud girdels
-crane push rods
-comp solid roller lifters


comp cams solid roller cam
gross valve lift is .575 intake and .575 exhaust
duration at 50 thousands is 300
lobe seperation is 110 at .050

-lifter valley vents, I am unsure if they are ok for some street
-small journal nitrite crank
-sealed power bearings throughout the motor
-crank scrapper, unsure for street use
-stock oil pump
-holley blue fuel pump
-8 AN braided fuel line from the tank to the carb
-stock oil pan
-crane pro series billet timimng chain set
-cam button
-electri water pump
-felpro head gaskets, the ones reccomended by edelbrock
-arp head bolts
-I used stock main bolts and they are not splayed
-700r4 tranny built to handle 700-800hp
it ahs the beast sun shell and a full manual reverse valve
body from TCI so not tv is needed
-28-3100 stall converter
-hedman headers for the s-10. long tube 1 5/8 primaries and
3 inch collector
-msd pro billet distributor
-msd 6 box
-msd 4 stage digital retard
-edelbrock rpm performer nitrous
-msd coil
-sfi balancer rubber band not a fluid filled any advice.

what should I expect from this motor. I can change some small things but I can't afford to change heads or soemthing that expensive now. I have been thinking of getting the new crane shaft rockers that have the poly matrix bearings, has anybody heard anything about them. please be honest if something is just waiting to break my motor and destroy it. please let me know so i can try and get it fixed.
any recomendations on a gear ratio.

I had it balanced. should the piston pads have any drilling to balance them. what I am asking is how to tell if it has been balanced without having a balancer it looked like some pistons were never taken out of the packaging for balancing.

once again thanks for any advice.
the points I think that may be weak. mains since they are stock bolts and not splayed, the lifter valley vents and the crank scrapper.
this truck will see approximatley 35 miles per week....
 

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mychevystang said:
I had it balanced. should the piston pads have any drilling to balance them. what I am asking is how to tell if it has been balanced without having a balancer it looked like some pistons were never taken out of the packaging for balancing.
the cat that did the balancing should have a balance sheet for you....... should have gotten it back when you got the rotating assembly back..... it's possible the pistons were weighed, and were close enough to not need any shaving, and he spun the crank and rods for balancce..... or not...

what kind of use is this motor going to see?
weekend cruising?
weekend drags?
what?

if your not going to be hammering it all the time, the mains ought to be ok. 2 or 4 bolt? 2 should be fine. throw in some arp main bolts, or stud them. either way..... looks like the mains is the only thing you didn't spiff up?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
rpm range

This motor will see around 7000rpm, when I get it to the drag strip I am going to make passes starting at 6000 and go up by 500 rpm increments until I don't see a significant improvement. But will not see its peak often..

I will be driving this truck to the drags about 2 times per month and the drag strip is about 20 miles from me. It will see some cruising in town but that would only be on a rare occasion and that would be only about 10 miles. The block is 4 bolt main... thanks for the input...
 

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Performer RPM won't do 7000 RPM

What is the duration of your cam

1 5/8 headers are too small

you'd better have a forged crank$$$$$

Other than that it sounds good...

K
 

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Discussion Starter #5
critueqe

the rpm performer is a nitrous kit. I may have said something wrong. the heads are edelbrock victor jr heads and I have a victor jr intake. Yeah the crank is a forged steel crank thasi a small journal and has been nitrided. thanks agin for any info on this. I am a little worried about the lifter valley vents and a crank scapper being used on the street, but the machine shop said since it has roller lifter it doesn't need as much oil as a hydraulic of solild tappet lifter.. and agin thanks for the quick replies
 

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Sounds like it may be a pretty hot package,the carb I think will be more than you want,I think a 750 would be the ticket. I prefer the band balancers over fluid myself if they are a high Q large diam one,Im scratching my head on the cam specs though,do you mean advertised dur? And on the crank,do you mean std size mains? As for the pistons,those things are so darn close anymore,the last set I had balanced didn't vary even 1/10th of a gram,speed pros. On the rockers,I have used the 1.6 summit endurance rockers,they use the big block studs so they don't flex as easy,they seem to work good,and they accommodate big block diameter springs that I like to use for a more even spring pressure. Gears,4.11 or lower I would say,is top speed priority or 1/4 mile times? Oh yea, good luck hookin it up,dont forget to save a few bucks for that department.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
critique

the cam card says gross valve lift is .575intake and .575exhaust
and the duration it says is 300 at .015.

it also says the duration at .050 is 255

the crank is a small journal crank, I think that means the mains are std. but the rod journals have been turned down to a smaller size. supposed to make less friction because of less surface area.

I am trying to get it to the lowest 1/4 mile time possible..
I have seen some other s10's at the track run in the 10's with stock type suspension with ladder bars. I have ben reading on here that the cal-tracs are the best, so I may get them..
 

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great drag combo!

wont work for the street! 255 duration @ 50 wont work for a daily driver. well are you just easing it around ?

go 3200+ stall w/ flash

4.56 gear

summit makes good stuff, but with that RPM maybe something else?

1 3/4 or larger primaries
 

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Discussion Starter #9
critique

the rockers I have are the 7/16, so they are a little stronger than the 3/8. summit says the are good up to 800 pounds of spring pressure. I was also thinking of going with the new crane shaft rockers that have the poly matrix bearings. But I don't want to spend $800 unless somebody can say that they have used them and they say they are worth the money..,
thanks for the input..

right now I have a torque converter I got off ebay.. only 225 dollars. What brand would be best. TCI, B&M...
 

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With those heads and induction system, this thing is meant to make power up stairs. You will need around a 4000 to 4500 converter to put the engine in its power range. The other parts look to be good. Don't worry about the lifter valley vents, they will work just fine and a crank scraper is good for any engine. Stock pan you are taking some risk. The added sump area of a modified pan and the ability to reduce the windage when this thing is reving high would be good insurance.

Chris
 

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everybody has good adivce

i am partial to BM, but i think TCI is a better value.

stall, id stick with 3,200- 3,600, any more and this becomes a dragstrip car.in my expirience a 4000 stall is race only.unfortunetly i have to agree. with your motor setup it will go faster with more stall.

a 4000 stall, is it even possible to drive on? a 3000 stall is not all that comfortable on the road.
 

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(-850 might demon carb, may be overkill)

Sounds right to me

(crank scrapper, unsure for street use)

Nothing to worry about here.

(stock oil pan)

Why have $5000 in the engine and a stock oil pan. A decent pan goes a long way to making power and reliability.

(hedman headers for the s-10. long tube 1 5/8 primaries and
3 inch collector)

2" primary, 31" long and a 4" collectror would be a better bet.


(lobe seperation is 110 at .050)


(lifter valley vent's)

Aren't needed if the oil return holes have been opened up.

LSA at 102-105, but then you lose the street driven idea. And you need more compression.
 

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This cam will work good, I would run around a 3500 stall. With the 3.06 first gear in a 700R4, if you run a 4.10 gear, I think you will be able to get away with the 3500 stall. As far as running large a stall on the street goes, I have a car with a 5000 stall, that I cruise sometimes on the weekends, and I dont see any problems with that. The only thing I would be concerned about is tranny heat. If you got a good cooler, and a pan with cooling baffles, I dont see why a 3500 would be a problem in your situation.

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #14
critique

a few of you think the carb will be overkill. I think it will be overkill on the street and below 3000rpm, But what about when drag racing it and the motor is over the 3000rpm range. If I get a higher stall converter around 32-3500 will the motor stuttor when leaving the line at that rpm. thanks again for the info.
anybody have any input on the rockers vs. the cane shaft rockers

with the 700 r4 can I use any stall I want and still lock it up at around town rpm's. I may be confused about stall and the 700 lockup. so lets say I had a 4500 stall conveter and I flipped the toggle switch to lock up the tranny, is the converter now locked up... if this is the case I can theoretically use any stall I want without fear of overheating the tranny. Does this seem correct to eveyone...
 

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I dont know enough about lockup units, you might want to get a hold of these people. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/ I have talked to them before and they were very helpfull. They have really good deals on 700R4 transmissions and stalls. Go to the site and go to "contact" there will be a phone number there.

Adam
 

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firestone said:
This cam will work good, I would run around a 3500 stall. With the 3.06 first gear in a 700R4, if you run a 4.10 gear, I think you will be able to get away with the 3500 stall. As far as running large a stall on the street goes, I have a car with a 5000 stall, that I cruise sometimes on the weekends, and I dont see any problems with that. The only thing I would be concerned about is tranny heat. If you got a good cooler, and a pan with cooling baffles, I dont see why a 3500 would be a problem in your situation.

Adam
5000 rpm that is just ridiculous, how often hve you replaced your 700r4

you sound like a buddy of mine who runs a 4.30 gear in his driver,his engine spins at 4,500 rpm on the highway. he says "its just gas"....
 

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Sorry, I didn't specify, I am running a glide not a 700R4. The car never sees the highway. I only cruise it sometimes on the weekends, to car shows, hangouts etc. My point was that as far as drive ability goes, if you are just putting around town, there is no reason why a large stall would make your car 'unstreetable' if you have proper cooling.

Adam
 

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You sure you want that much cam? It wont even start to clean up till about 3500 and wont really start to work till say around 4000,I think I would want about 10 degrees less for what you have,just me. If you do run it,you will need to let it turn up somehow,Im not real sure what you can get away with on a 700 in that department.
 
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