One of the dash after filling in the stock speaker grille area with a sheet patch, and rebuilding the lower section and recess with more sheet. All welding done with 110 MIG, filler is just a skim coat to even it all out and fill grinder marks.
Another one showing the rebuild and primed speedo cluster. I have yet to reinstall the bezels in the cluster for the marker and hi-beam lites. I will likely reinstall all the switches from the dash into a center console that runs full-length inside the car, and have only the speedo and the indash CD stereo in the smoothed dash assembly...
Now ya know what I've been up to the past couple of weeks...
nice work on the dash Dr Chop.
I will like to see the finished product but I am thinking about heading north to see it in real life and pick your brain but that will be in the summer time.
Question- after shooting primer, I notice anyplace I have used filler tends to stand out from the underlying metal areas of the part being primed. I made sure to featheredge the filler with 400# paper, anyone else run into this before? Do I need to lay the primer on thicker and sand these areas again with 400 to help seal the filler? What about spotting them with clear, and then repriming?
Once the color coats are going on, they don't appear at all just wondering if it's because the filler is porous and soaks up the thinner from the lacquer primer as it's shot on...
Doc, you answerd your own question. Filler is porus and it does absorb the primer. Best bet after using filler is to use a sealer and not a primer first. Filler will absorb anything from your primer and paint to oils and aeresol sprays, so its always a good idea to seal it after its cured to keep all the nasties out. Sealer will stop that problem of absorbtion. I usually never come in this forum so you almost got no answer.
Alan, of course you can. You can do anything you can dream up. If you really want to do it I can help you out and tell you how step by step. Let me know.
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