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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Morning all that know more than I (Which is all of you). Thanks in advance for any help. I caught this problem AFTER the install but before completely hooking everything up. The oil pan clears the cross member but is really getting abused by the center drag bar (steering link) as it goes up to the tie rods. Not a lot of wheel turn is available. Racing, deep oil pan cannot change. Here's where my question is, PO put convertible front coils (1964 f84) on a non-convertible two door. It raised the front end about two inches because they are heavier duty. Did that by itself raise the center link because the front end higher ? And would putting regular or slightly lower coils drop the center link height. Thanks for you ideas. Nelson
 

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Center link height is determined by the mount position of the pitman arm (steering box) and idler arm (frame mount). Not the front springs.

I have a customer with similar probs on a mid eighties Firebird with a BBC in it.
 

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Coil springs will not affect he centerlink location.
Centerlink is fixed by the steering gear and the idler arm

Not wise to mess with these locations at all----will seriously affect steering in a bad way.

Need to get a different pan
 

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Might try using the centerlink from a 66/7 Chevelle with a 396.
Might end up changing the inner tie rods and idler---not sure.

Car has the same frame as a Chevelle so may of the parts up there should be able to swap with Chevy counterparts.

Many vendors of the Chevelle centerlinks----and not all of them play well
with the big block Chevelles----so it will pay to do some research
 

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Had that issue and notched the oil pan to allow for the center link..

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Notched

Now, I do not wield, could this mean a hammer ? (probably not) I assume I have a deep sump (I looked in there but I did not build this short block). I do not think they have any longer than normal rods (4 bolt mains). Are there replacement oil pans that have deep rears and shallow fronts? I have looked some :(. Thanks N
 

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The best oil pan for you I think is the Holley 301-1 or 301-2, which is made for these issues, but it doesn't come cheap at about $370 and $350 respectively on ebay.
 

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Now, I do not wield, could this mean a hammer ? (probably not) I assume I have a deep sump (I looked in there but I did not build this short block). I do not think they have any longer than normal rods (4 bolt mains). Are there replacement oil pans that have deep rears and shallow fronts? I have looked some :(. Thanks N

Many of the older drag race pans are based on the stock pan with a deeper sump..

My customer paid over $500.00 for his pan and you would assume it would fit his chassis. As that was what it was sold as. But he will have to raise the engine, which already sets above the hood line. Cut up an expensive pan. Or modify the centerlink like we did on Fords back in the day. :pain:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Sad part is....

:spank: I had the engine upside down on the stand, took off the pan and checked out the crank, pan was spotless, just back from a "refreshening". I should/could have taken some measurement and KNOWN the pan would have hit (maybe). There is a windage try but no baffle or other strange race stuff in there. I even took pictures but they aren't good enough. From the pic can you tell if the pick up is deep? It should be the pan is. Again this was from a circle race track car, (short block) added all new top stuff. Feel like I'm climbing up hill. I will try to start the car today, it has not been run in over ten years, evaluate how my rebuild went (1st time), then figure out which fix to try. Thanks , Nelson
 

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Hold your horses!!! :pain: That is just a STOCK SBC oil pick-up, it is NOT deep enough to go with a deep pan, you will risk oil starvation if you try to run it that way.

Other than the nicer rods , crank, and aftermarket main caps the bottom end looks to be stock, so a stock style or a flared sump pan(widened at the bottom rear sump area, but not deeper, for more volume) would be what you need.

Circle track style pans will RARELY fit a stock chassis, they assume you are going to set the engine back farther in the chassis, and often lower the engine as well, so pans are not made to fit an engine in the stock location.

Post a picture of the PAN !
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Wow

I will get you a pic but the pan is huge soooooooo maybe they had a secondary oil pump going at the same time??
1st pic is looking more at depth of strainer
2nd is orange oil pan
3rd pic is before orange paint
4th as original set up
I do not need the extra oil capacity for cruisering, I just thought it would fit in car, If clearance is not an issue I haver a chevy 400 oil pan sitting in my barn>>>> thanks for your help Nelson
 

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mis and match paarts

I remember in the 60's a buddy mixed steering parts from power steering and non power cars to get the steering linkage a bit lower. You might find more info on a forum that deals with what ever car you are building.
 

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The best oil pan for you I think is the Holley 301-1 or 301-2, which is made for these issues, but it doesn't come cheap at about $370 and $350 respectively on ebay.
Oops, sorry but just read your post, and you don't mention engine type and I assumed it was LS. Above pans for LS only.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
68 to 78 355 (.30) sbc

I have been told that my crank pictures shows a sock oil pump and I should put a stock oil pan on. They must have had a forced primary oil system also. These guys were good racers and they knew how to build and win. (and were sneaky with the rules I am told).:nono:
 

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Picture in Post #12 of orange engine and pan shows a stock type pan, looks like a totally stock pan from the outside anyway, it is not a deep pan at all.

The oil pump pick-up screen/strainer is totally stock in the pic of the blue engine.

If you could post a pic of the pan that was on the engine when you received it we can tell you if it was a race pan or not.
They may have run a stock depth/stock appearance "cheater" pan that has a scraper and possible an oil gate around the pick-up area, in conjunction with an oil accumulator to feed the system if oil pressure from the pump ever dropped from G-loads during cornering or on acceleration.

The four pictures supposed to be in Post #11 aren't there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Well.....

Okay here's the rest the story....A racer took this 64 and installed the 400 chevy about 25 yrs ago but never raced it. My brother finished hooking up the engine and played with it for 13 yrs. Now I have installed the 350 with apparently stock parts and the steering hits hmmmmmmmmmmmm....did the guy put a smaller pan on the 400 to the build, I will need to swap that pan (and maybe pick up if needed) and go from there.. That on fit!!!!! Thanks for your help, I jsut commented to my wife that the stock pans I WAS looking at LOOKED like mine just before you posted. Thanks again Nelson Mystery solved in Vt sort of:drunk:
The pics are of the 400 leaving the 64 oldsmobile, it was not raced, but he may have customized the pan to keep it low and to fit in the hole. Note the rounded nose and short front height.
 

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If you have a truck pan, they went forward a bit more than passenger car pans, and will interfere with the drag link in a rear steer car.
 

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If you have a truck pan, they went forward a bit more than passenger car pans, and will interfere with the drag link in a rear steer car.
I was just going to add this, old Corvette pans are also a bit longer to the front in the sump area and won't clear the chassis on A-body car(your F-85 is an A-body).

You may be surprised to know this, but the '64-72 GM A-body cars have the least amount of pan clearance of GM's 60's muscle cars. Camaro/Firebird's and '68-up Nova's and all Impala's have more clearance. The only chassis with less pan clearance is the '67-earlier Chevy II/Nova with it's full unibody and front shock tower design.

The '64-72 A-body's also have the smallest trans tunnel of the bunch.....seems odd that the "mid-size" car offering has the least clearance, but that's the way it is :drunk:
 
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