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A neighbour needs to charge a couple 36Vbanks for his hydraulic'd 61 pontiac. He says the lowrider "standard" is to charge the banks at home with a plug in charge. Seems a bit shade-tree, I thought a second alternator modded for 36 or 72V might be better if they exist. Nothing really against shade trees but here in the north they aren't so necessary. What say you?
 

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You need 5 switches and 4 batteries.

The first 3 switches go between the alternatior and the battery pack.

Then you have 2 switches to connect the left and right to the center battery pack joining them so they make 36 volts.

You walk back to the trunk and turn the 2 trunk switches to off. Then jump in the car fireing it up (off the under hood battery) then flip the 3 dash switches to on.



The 3 trunk batteries and underhood battery are now being charged to 12+ volts.




When you want to use hydraulics you flip the 3 dash switches to off and then walk back to the trunk flipping the 2 trunk switches to on.
Now you have a fully charged 36 volt battery pack.

Important notes:

1. Make sure to use switches rated for the amp load in the trunk. Marine switches are recommended.

2. If you leave the 36 volt battery pack connected then turn on the dash switches your going to send 36 volts to the rest of the car and potentially hurt/melt things. So using diodes rated for the amps is only going to let that current go one way. Now potentially you could eliminate the dash switches using diodes. But, having that switch just kills any chance of things going bad if one of those diodes does fail when the thing is parked.

3. You can make these switches turn electronically using motors and relays making this potentially a single toggle switch system.
Down(with a cover) to charge (having the hydraulics off) and up (not charging) to run the hydraulics.

This is not a perfect setup. But you can hide or make what is not hidden clean all while running a single alternatior with factory mounts.
 

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the 'Duracell Project'
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i drew this up for a 24v boat trolling motor
3 position switch and 4 solenoids
off isolates the starting battery from the trolling batteries
on1 gives 24v to trolling motor, isolated from start battery
on2 once started switched to this position to charge all 3 batteries
heavy duty solenoids used with 100% duty cycle

this could easily be configured for 36v with 3 batteries
or 4 batteries with a reserve start battery

technically any voltage over 24v should have isolated ground system
this could be done with 4 batteries and a boatload of solenoids
with solenoids are pretty much fool proof
you don't worry about switching 5 switches or having the wrong voltage
full amp solenoids are probably needed for the hydraulics


613818
 

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the 'Duracell Project'
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decided to mess around a little, you'd need 7 solenoids, they cost about the same as switches
solenoids 1 thru 5 are 12 volt, 6&7 need to be 36 volt with 12volt coil
if you could find contactors you'd need only 2 contactors, the only ones i found were $$$
your low rider friend might have sources for that stuff

this would be a 4 battery setup, probably what he has now: 1 starter and 3 hydraulic pump batteries
no change to the start battery, key off everything is disconnected
he'd want a 100 amp alternator min and probably keep a rebuilt kit on hand



613823
 
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