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Ferguson Coachbuilding
388 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,

The '40 Willys I'm currently working on has about 90 percent of the roof covered with dents. Not small dents, like hail damage, etc., but big ol' nasty lookin' things. I'm going to use the text that Wray Schelin wrote a few years ago on the jaglovers list and add a few pictures to it. Wray covered the subject very well, so no reason to re-write it.

Tools for Removing Dents
By Wray E. Schelin

How smooth are your stripped body panels? That is the question you need to know before you advance to the primer stage. If they're not smooth you can fill them with bondo and heavy primer- but if you do so you run a high risk of a early paint failure and all your work will be in vain- or you can smooth them by accurately working the panel back to a smooth condition. If you rub your hand over the metal and feel low spots or high spots, you can be sure that they will show . Before you get your spray gun out you should be able to rub a panel in any direction and feel nothing but smoothness.

If you choose smoothing instead of filling, I'll share with you the technique that I use and some of the tools needed.

First the tools:

All body tools should have smooth working surfaces; hammers, slappers, and dollys are like printing presses, they will transfer the imperfections on their working faces to the metal over an over. Its best to take the time and smooth your tools first , because any imperfection transferred to the panel can make itself known later in the topcoats,as a paint shrinkage depression.

The higher quality body tools are made of heat treatable steel. You should have at least one hard hammer and one hard dolly- for hammering welds. The reason for this is the welds are harder than the surrounding metal and if you flatten them with a non hard hammer you will mark the hammer and then you will have to keep smoothing it. The working faces of hammers and slappers should have a very slight crown to them and the edges should be radiused. With the edges smooth and the center crowned slightly, you will not mark the panel if you inadvertently strike with the edge of the tool.

The slapper is the most important smoothing tool. You can make a slapper out of a old rear leaf spring. Car springs are harder than welds, so they will not mark up. My slapper has a working face of 2.250" by 5". The thickness is .250" and the unbent starting length is 14". You can also get a single spring leaf new from your local truck spring rebuilder. You can cut it to shape with a cutoff wheel or a torch, but cool it quick so you don't anneal it. I bent mine with an offset of 1.625" . The offset allows you to affix a wood handle and provides the clearance for your fingers. Heat with a torch to bend the offset and then narrow the handle end to a width of 1.375". The narrowed part is 5" long.

This slapper will smooth all body panels except for concave areas. For concave areas you will need to make a special slapper or use hammers. Once you start to use a slapper you will retire your hammer.

You will also need a few dollys. I found most of my dollies at flea markets for a few dollars each. Three or four dollies will be more than adequite to deal with all the different shapes and contours that you encounter . Each dolly usually has several different contours and crowns. As long as you have a straight edge , a low crown, medium crown, and a high crown you will be able to smooth any panel. Don't hesitate to alter the dolly to fit a need ,grind them with a body grinder, to rough shape then use a DA sander- with finer and finer sand papers- in rotary mode to achieve a fine polished finish.

Next you will need a body file and holder. The holders have a turn-buckle on them to allow you to flex the file to a concave, flat, or convex shape. The file that I use I was able to order from my local welding supplier. They are a dealer for a German company called Pferd. I got a Pferd catalog, an found that they offer a 12 tooth per inch body file , which is considered a fine cut body file. Most of the files that I had seen previously were 8 or 9 teeth per inch which are coarse body files. I like the fine file because I can use it on aluminum , steel, or body solder. When I use it on aluminum I load the teeth with a candle wax, this allows you to skate over the aluminum without digging in and making gouges. This type of file is 14 inches long and has cutting surfaces on each of its sides. On one side I grind the edges smooth in effect killing them so they do not dig in as you skate the file sideways. Pferd also sells the holders and a multitude of different style files and abrasives, all are of the highest quality available anywhere. Pferd has distribution centers all over the world. In the USA they can be reached at

Pferd Inc
30 Jytek Dr.
Leominster, MA 01453
Phone 508 840-6420
In Australia:

Pferd Australia (Pty) Ltd.
Moorabbin, Vic.
3189 8 Capella Cresent
(03) 5531946+5531933
You can also try your local welding supply house and they might have a catalog.

Another item I use is a large magic marker or felt marker. The ones that I use are called magnums and they mark a swath about 1/2" wide with a tenacious ink that dries very quickly. I like red ink the best.

A heavy duty 9" body grinder is the most expensive item needed. You can use a lighter duty 7" grinder but it won't work as well as the 9" in all cases.

Also a 9" 120 grit grinding disc. Grinding discs when they are new are very sharp when you run your finger over them , after grinding a heavy piece of steel for a few minutes you will dull the disc. This is how I prepare my discs, purposely dulling them to make them suitable for use.

Lastly you will need the Amazing Shrinking Disc. I mentioned this tool before in another post, it is a 9" disc of .050" stainless steel with some ruffles pressed into the outer working surface. This tool is most effective when used with the heavy duty 9" body grinder. I can't say enough about how good this simple tool works.

In my next post I will explain the process that I use in conjunction with the earlier mentioned tools. For many years I haphazardly removed dents with a method which always left the panel in a improved state, but not perfect. I frankly didn't believe you could restore the damaged metal to a state were no filler other than primer would be necessary. Like most things once you master them they are quite simple, all you need is the determination and the correct method.


Wray E. Schelin

Removing Dents
by Wray Schelin


In the last post I described the tools necessary to completely remove
dents, waves, and dings in your body panels. In this post I will share with
you how I use the tools to achieve a panel smoothness that will require
very little or no bondo filler. It is best to keep your bondo use down for
two reasons. One,bondo use is not craftsmanship, its just a cheap
substitute. If your trying to achieve a high standard restoration- in my
opinion it is best to have the craftsmanship on more than just what you
see. The value of these cars is more than just the dollar amount. The
second reason is, if you keep your substrates (bondo fillers and primers)
to a very minimum and apply just enough topcoats you will have an ideal
thickness of paint coatings. With an ideal thickness your paint system will
be able to expand and contract with the steel and aluminum surfaces of your
cars body as it heats and cools. This correct thickness insures you against
an early paint failure. Coatings can fail for many other reasons, but too
much paint and filler I believe is the most common culprit.

The most surprizing thing about high quality metal finishing, is that is
not that difficult to do; but it does take patience, good eyesight, a fine
sense of touch, and the tools that I previously mentioned.

First what's fixable and what's not. If you have, say, a 120 front fender
that was severely damaged in a accident many years ago on its leading
surfaces, an was quickly repaired by sewing up tears with brazing rod,
crudely hammered out, ground very thin, and then filled with bondo, forget
it; in that case you are probably better served by replacing that heavily
damaged section. Another impossibility is an area that has been incorrectly
torch shrunk; what had started out as an earnest limited attempt,
inadvertently expanded to large area, leaving heat damage with heavy
intractable waves.

Fixable dents and damage, listed in a descending order of severity:

Bodged past repairs that are still fixable, because the metal has not been
ground too thin,

Collision damage with stretching and tearing,

Sandblasting with excessive pressure causing a wave effect,

Smoothing out the seam of a butt welded patch panel,

Small dents with little or no stretching,

I 'll share with you how I remove a small dent . An easy example will work
best, so lets say, its the rear fender of a XK120. The dent is in the
middle of the rear section of the fender, and its is about the size of your
fist, sunken in about 3/4" in the center. All paint and undercoating should
be removed first. I would first select a dolly that has a crown that is
close to the fender; in this case that would be a medium crown. Using a
glove to protect my fingers I would palm the dolly and lightly tap it
against the bump on the inside of the fender; carefully watching the
progress of the rising depression. I would use this process until I got the
dent up to within 1/8" of the surface. This will happen within minutes-
this is called roughing out the dent. Next I would hold the dolly tightly
against the center of the damage , on the backside, while I use the slapper
on the front, tapping the circumference of the dent. This is a dolly off
action, the slapper and dolly are not clashing with each other, they are
beside one another. I would keep tapping away with the slapper, moving the
dolly tightly with some force, against the lowest area of the dent. Slowly
the dent will rise to very close to the surface level. The slapper does
this operation very effectively because it has such a large surface area,
compared to a hammer. With a hammer you're hitting a smaller area and you
might dent the area you're hammering against because it will yield easier
than the center of the dent.

Roughing and slapping the dent has reduced the dent by about 90% and
progress was swift. The next stage of metal finishing requires the bag of
tricks and the tools. The problem that you encounter at this final stage
is, you have trouble seeing what you're doing because your actions have to
be small. When you were roughing you could easily see the metal move closer
to the surface; but now you might only have to move the metal forty
thousands of an inch or less to reach the true surface. At this stage a
common practice is to use a pick hammer. In my opinion a pick hammer has
many drawbacks: one- you need room to be able to swing it; and generally
the hammer itself might be 6" or more across the head. Two- it is very easy
to over hit with a pick hammer and cause irrepairable damage. Three- more
likely than not you will not be able to strike the low spot, instead you
will hit the high spot worsening the problem. The safest bet is to retire
your pick hammer. This verdict also applies to the bulls-eye gimmick tools
which use a C shaped frame to guide you to the elusive low spot. If you go
down the bulls-eye road you will find your garage populated with many
expensive sizes and versions absolutely needed to remove all those pesky
dents and dings. You will always be one bulls-eye tool short.

What I do at this stage is coat the damaged area entirely with the 1/2"
wide red magic marker ( thats a US trade name for those who might not be
familiar with them- there is no magic, its just a felt ink marker) Next I
draw the fine body file over the area, just lightly skimming the surface,
this will quickly reveal the high and low spots. The object now is to raise
the low spots. You can do this by placing a dolly with a high crown surface
tightly against the low spot. You will only be guessing at this point
unless you have x-ray vision . You find out where you really are with the
dolly by lightly slapping the surface, with the the slapper a few times,
trying deliberately to strike the dollies crown. If you are successful -
and you probably will be, because of the slappers large working surface-
you will hear the ring of the contact of the metals. Slide the slapper to
the side, but leave the dolly where it is. You should be able to see a 1/8"
diameter ( a 1/8" inch affected area will raise quickly with little force ,
the size of the mark made when you slap it determines the speed of the
metal rise. 1/8" is fast 1/2" is slow) clear spot, or slightly less inked,
in a region of the small low spot that you were raising. If you goofed and
hit a high area instead you should be able to see a difference there too.
Whether you were in the right area or not is not important, what is most
important, is establishing where you are and being able to adjust . Watch
the trail marks left in the inked surface and you can steer the dolly, on
the backside, easily to where it is needed. Slap lightly, slowly raising
the low spot. After a few minutes, refile the area and your progress will
become apparent.

You might have to wash off the marker ink ; re-ink, and refile several
times. Each working of the area will reduce the size of the low spots.
Remember that the filing is meant just to scrape off the ink and not to
reduce the thickness of the metal. The force and stroke of the slapper will
be less as you progress. When you have reduced the low areas to less than
1/2" in diameter, and when you rub your hand over the area you still
slightly feel them, you are ready to use the shrinking disc.

The condition of the metal at this point is stressed and springy as a
result of all the trauma inflicted on it. The original damage has been
raised but in the process the metal has been stretched a little. If you
applied bondo at this stage some of the bondo would surround the damaged
area, feathering in the new surface height.

With the marker ink still on, and a wet rag handy, crank up the body
grinder with the shrinking disc and rub the area. You vary the pressure
according to how much you need to shrink. On the first pass I usually apply
light pressure. The metal will quickly begin to rise and expand from the
heat build-up. Remove the disc and wipe the area with a wet rag. With that
operation you have started to shrink, stress relieve and further fine tune
the outline of the low spots. You can now re-mark with ink, file and
further tap out the low spots with the slapper and dolly. Some dents might
require several cycles, but as you hone your technique you should be able
to remove most dents in fewer cycles . At this stage an obvious high spot
might have developed. You can easily remove it by rubbing the shrinking
disc over it; it will heat to a blue condition in seconds, and then cool
with the wet rag. After I'm satisfied that I can no longer effectively
raise any remaining tiny low spots (depressions only a few thousands of an
inch deep). I then install the very dull 120 grit 9" grinding disc and
proceed to work the area with it. The grinding disc will level the area
leaving a almost polished surface, it will heat the area quickly also, so
cool it with a rag after you done grinding. If you have done everything
correctly you should have a very smooth surface , that is stress free and
in no need of bondo.

If you practice these techniques on some old , damaged, and unimportant
sheetmetal parts you will quickly hone your skill.

On some areas of the XK Jaguars it is almost impossible to get a
conventional dolly into the area; in those cases you have to be resourceful
and fashion something that will snake into the damaged area, it will be
effective as long as it resists the blows of the slapper causing the metal
to rise.


Wray E. Schelin


Here are a few shots of the progression from the severely dented roof, to one that will need no more than two medium coats of hi-build primer to fill any minor flaws.

In this next picture, it looks worse than it really is. In reality, the high spots need only slight shrinking to bring them down to the proper surface level. If I were to bring the entire area up to the point there were no low spots and all the marker were sanded off, it would take a considerable amount of shrinking to get the job done. As it is, the high spots are only a few thousandths of a inch high and lightly running the shrinking disc over the entire roof panel will quickly level it out.

This is the result after a couple passes over the roof with the shrinking disk. It's pretty good at this point, but there are 3 or 4 small areas that need a little work yet.

And here is the final product. If I had sanded it more, it would perhaps have shown better how straight and smooth this roof panel is, but I haven't got the time right now. The dark spots you see is where the shrinking disc run on the surface and discolored it a bit.

All total, I have just under 3 hours repairing the dents, which covered the majority of this roof. Having spent years smearing body filler, I know it can't be 'fixed' any faster going that route. In fact, I can guarantee I would have spent at least twice that long using filler and perhaps much longer!!!

Randy Ferguson
Ferguson Coachbuilding
(618) 544-2972

318 Posts
Im currently restoring a 69 porsche 911 and there are about 5 fist sized dents on the roof. this was a very good right up and i plan on following it. however, i cant seem to find the shrinking disk mentioned. of course its sunday night/ morning and im browsing online until i can make calls tomorrow.. any ideas where to find them?

Ferguson Coachbuilding
388 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Beemdubya,

It looks bad, but if you follow the rules, you will get it totally remove and won't need any filler. It's very rewarding the first time you accomplish that!! Please take lots of pictures and keep us posted. I can't wait to see your results.

I'll give you a little piece of advice that might make it seem not so overwhelming. Work the small spots first, until you have them brought up to the surrounding sruface level.

Do just as Wray suggested in the tutorial and keep checking with the sanding block to monitor your progress. Before you know it, your confidence level will go through the roof and you'll know that there's nothing the metal can do to control you. You stay in complete control over the metal at all times.

Have you ordered your shrinking disc yet??

On a side note, I'm looking for a good Porsche forum, particularly for the 356. Do you know of any??

If you have a list, please send me an e-mail with the url's
[email protected]

Thank You.

Randy Ferguson

318 Posts
Randy, a good porsche forum is hard to come by i havent found a decent one yet in fact i think i only found one and that is im thinking most porsche owners dont really need to know how or what anything on there car does since most of them pay others to care for there cars(only my opinion).

as for the shrinking disk im gonna try a home made deal for now. i found a 9inch baking pan in my cabinet and its 18g. if i feel it doesnt work properly or im gonna be doing alot more of this i will opt to buy one.

I should have some more pics in a couple days and im also going to take a little more of ur advice and try out this southern poly epoxy primer.

Ill keep my pics coming. And since this is the first time im trying this i hope it will encourage other first timers to as well.

Buddy M.

Street Rod Dreamin'
121 Posts
I am just starting the body work on my project and I am not a bodyman. I have several dings throughout my panel and REALLY did not want to use any filler. This was excellant information and has taken some of the "scarriness" out of trying to tackle this. Of course there's no substitute for experience but, one doesn't get it by sitting on the sidelines going "Oh, I don't know how to do that!"

1 Posts
Hey Bob, I see your in south jersey. If your doing body work on a regular basis, it can never hurt to find a good Paintless dent repair technician. (hint hint):cool:

Seriously though... A good dent tech can make you day go a whole lot easier. I am not talking about a big roof job like the original post, but when your doing a car and you have a pannel with a few small dings that you really don't want to have to get into the paint work on, we can fix it up pretty darned good, and it doesn't add much cost to the job. I do work with several body shops in my area. If they do some colision and there's a door with a few dings that will stand out after all the good work they have done, they will use me to clean it up, and everyone is happy!

I even work with a limo company that has 100 limos and 2 bodyshops. Believe me, they love it when they can save time/money on ANY pannel. (ussually cost them under 100 bucks for me to clean up a few door dings) and the time/labor for them would be more even without the materials.

Socket Breaker
37 Posts
anybody make/have one of those slapper things?

I'd like to see a pciture of one. I'm trying to get the visual in my head.

thanks for sharing Randy - good work on the roof there.


The Penny Pincher
1,951 Posts
Woogeroo said:
anybody make/have one of those slapper things?

I'd like to see a pciture of one. I'm trying to get the visual in my head.

thanks for sharing Randy - good work on the roof there.

Check out a company called Eastwood, I think I saw one there.

Eastwood Co. calls it a slapping spoon
#31222 sells for $24.99

5 Posts
If you look at the bottom of Randy's post you will see a link to the metalmeet site. Within this site you can find pictures and tutorials for making any of the tools Randy was showing and many more.

If you haven't been to the metalmeet site, I would suggest you visit the site even if doing your own body work isn't something you would consider. The site is packed with great people and there is more knowledge being posted and stored there then anyone has time to absorb. They also love to answer questions, the more detailed your question the better your answer will be(suggest posting digital images of your problems).

Go give it a look.

49 Posts
Pictures of tools with captions

This thread would be even better if someone would post pictures of each tool and a label with it's name. If anyone cares to do this, please create two groups of pictures -- one for the "right" tools and one for the "wrong" tools. And feel free to explain why NOT to use certain tools.

I'd also like to see pics and instructions for making the shrinking disc -- is this used in place of a shrinking dolly? The el cheapo 7-piece body-working kit I bought at Harbor Freight lists a shrinking dolly, but I don't know which one it is or how to use it.

Woo-hoo, this forum is like XMas in July -- Thanks!

Shabby chic sheet metalshaper
233 Posts
In the metalmeet forums you will find instructions on how to make your own shrinking disc:

Shrinking dollies and hammers are better for tenderizing meat than shaping metal. I have a few pictures and descriptions of the body hammer I use most, and dollies I use most in this album:

Ron Covell has a nice slapper (slap hammer): not too hard to make your own.

There are tons of pictures of tools at: in the albums and at in the galleries.

Cheap hammer and dolly sets will not get you started off in the right direction. They simply don't work very well.

Check out:

Here are the instructions I send out with every shrinking disc:

GRINDER REQUIREMENTS: A standard 7” 3400 rpm sander/polisher will work with the disc, but a 6000 rpm 15-amp grinder/sander is more effective. A standard 7” rubber or plastic backing pad and spindle nut are all that is required to mount the disc. In limited testing, a small pneumatic sander did not have enough torque to overcome the friction of using the disc, as the speed dipped too much to be useful. A larger pneumatic sander might work. Although the disc itself does have a slightly uneven surface when checked with an indicator, this does not affect the use of the tool. Check your backup pad for surface irregularities by spinning it by hand while up against a stationary indicator of some sort. You may want to remove some material from it to get the disc to spin as straight as you can. My prototype was out by a full 1/8” on the working surface, yet it performs flawlessly.
SAFETY: I recommend a full face shield with goggles underneath, and hearing protection. Make sure none of your clothing is loose enough to be a snag hazard. To reduce the risk of slivers, you must occasionally dress the surface of the disc, as it galls with use. You can dress it with a file or 80-grit sandpaper. If you choose to run the disc while dressing it with sandpaper, be aware that too much pressure can build up enough heat to warp the disc. Go slow. Don’t run the disc without eye protection when onlookers are present. Tiny particles may fly off the disc during use. Always keep the disc on the work surface until it stops spinning. Regularly check the disc for cracks or discoloration caused by over-heating or wearing out. If after years of use, you see the disc turn blue during use, stop using it immediately and get a new one. I have not been able to wear one out during abusive testing, but I expect the disc to wear out eventually. Since you will be using water to cool the panel, be sure to keep it away from your electric grinder to reduce risk of electrocution or shock. Set the grinder as far away from the bucket of water as is practical. You might consider wearing leather gloves, in the unlikely event of failure of the disc or spindle nut during use. This disc has a safety edge, but is still a dangerous tool, so exercise caution during use. If not dressed, the surface of the disc may have slivers, so leave it face down when not in use.
DENT REPAIR AND METAL-FINISHING: To repair a dent, use a dolly to bump up the low spot from behind. Some larger dents are best worked from the perimeter in. Bumping with a dolly will bring the dent back near the original contour. This simple step is important throughout the repair, because, in addition to the inevitable small areas that need minor stretching later in the process, you will probably find low spots that just need bumping up. After bumping the dent up to its original contour, start working the metal off-dolly. This means pushing up with a dolly on low spots while hitting high spots with a hammer or slapper. This will start to get the panel smoother. Now start some medium-force on-dolly work. Usually, on-dolly work is stretching the metal between the hammer and dolly but, in this case, very little stretching is done, especially if you use a slapper instead of a hammer, as the force of the blow is spread more evenly. You are using multiple hits to planish (smooth) the area. Now check the shape of the panel. Use templates taken from the same spot on the other side of the car wherever possible. Use one up and down, and another front to back to see where the shape is too low or too high. Sometimes the whole area will still be too low and need more bumping and hammer-and-dolly work. Once you are satisfied that the general shape is right, you can start to pick up specific low spots by stretching on-dolly. Use a dolly that has a slightly higher crown than the panel being worked, and a hammer with a slight crown in it. This way there is a small contact area between the hammer and dolly, making it easier to stretch small areas up. You must push up fairly hard on the dolly. You should see small marks on the metal where it is stretched by the blows. Lightly file the area to show the highs and lows, then repeat the hammer-and-dolly steps, and file lightly again until you have the whole area smooth but a little too high. As an alternative to stretching up the low spots with a hammer and dolly, a tool called a bullseye pick ( can be modified to work very well. It is a little easier to use and may be easier on your arms if you have a lot of work to do. The tip must be ground down so that it is not so sharp, otherwise it will damage the panel. A tip I picked up from Wray Schelin: During metal-finishing, use a large magic marker (“Magnum” size) to ink the whole repair area before filing. This really makes the low spots stand out, just like using a guide coat for sanding primer. For more about metal-finishing from a different perspective, please see the Jag Lovers articles written by Wray Schelin, also on my links page. “The Key to Metal-Bumping” by Frank Sargent is a good resource booklet as well.
USING THE DISC: Once you have the metal smooth but high, start running the disc over the surface, back and forth, while moving sideways slightly after each pass - basically a zig-zag pattern, much like what you would use when conditioning a panel with a sander. For most applications, a 6” x 6” area of coverage is a good starting point. Small high spots will turn blue. Stop immediately and use a wet rag to quench and cool the metal. Do not rush! There is no hurry. I keep a rag in the bottom of a bucket with about an inch of water in it so it doesn’t splash much when I drop the rag in after use. The smoother the panel is, the longer you can run the disc without turning any part of the panel blue. It is not necessary to use the disc until the metal turns blue in order to shrink; use it just long enough so that when you quench it with a wet rag it steams. This will take practice to gain the experience of knowing when to stop. Run your hand over the metal both up and down and back and forth to feel the surface while it is still wet. You will be able to tell where the high spots are, and use the disc for a shorter period of time to shrink specific areas. The disc will mark the metal and show the low spots as unmarked. Do not hesitate to go back to some of the previous steps of on-dolly stretching or using the bullseye pick to raise low spots. You may find it necessary to bump up some low spots, or even go back to some off-dolly work. This is part of the process. Once you have done an operation, never assume that that can’t be the problem. Always let the panel dictate what needs to be done. Most severe damage will require multiple passes of the shrinking disc interspersed with quenching, hammer-and-dolly work, and/or the bullseye pick. Once you have the panel nice and smooth, you can spray a guide coat on it, or use the Magnum marker, then sand with an appropriate sanding block with 80 grit to help show small discrepancies. At this stage, you can use a worn-out Scotch Brite pad on a 7” Velcro backing pad fitted to your sander, just as you would the shrinking disc, then quench, to simultaneously polish the surface and shrink a little more as well.
One non-traditional use of the disc is to use it as a shaping tool. I regularly use the disc to correct over-stretched areas caused by being a little careless with an english wheel or planishing hammer, to the point that I worry less about my metal-shaping techniques, because areas of over-stretch are easy to shrink. I no longer consider them mistakes, just part of the process. You can also do a lot of nice metal work with just a shotbag, mallet, slapper, post dolly, and a shrinking disc.
Some people like to be very judicious with a file while metal-finishing, others use it more liberally. Some people don’t like the bullseye pick and opt for pure hammer-and-dolly work. Use any combination of these techniques that works for you. I use them all. I can be contacted at my current email address: [email protected] or through my web site: Please check the “my latest work” link on my web site for updates on the uses of the shrinking and shaping disc, as well as information in the other albums.


Ed S.
123 Posts
Hi Randy,

Nice post! I have a roof that looks similar to the one Beemdubya has pictured but instead of magic marker (haven’t gotten to that stage yet) the spots are putty and some kind of poly primer. I plan on removing the primer and filler but I’m trying to figure out how to get some of the dents out that have some kind of reinforcement preventing access. It’s a 68 Mustang coupe that I bought from a friend and is/was rust free except for what grew under the vinyl roof. Once I get all of the putty remove how would you suggest getting out some of the dents that have access blocked by the reinforcement?



318 Posts
Scode68 said:
Hi Randy,

Nice post! I have a roof that looks similar to the one Beemdubya has pictured but instead of magic marker (haven’t gotten to that stage yet) the spots are putty and some kind of poly primer. I plan on removing the primer and filler but I’m trying to figure out how to get some of the dents out that have some kind of reinforcement preventing access. It’s a 68 Mustang coupe that I bought from a friend and is/was rust free except for what grew under the vinyl roof. Once I get all of the putty remove how would you suggest getting out some of the dents that have access blocked by the reinforcement?



Hmm.. maybe one day i will have time to work on my own project.. damn customer cars. half of my roof is just about dent free and it only took a couple hours and it was my first time using this method.
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