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Discussion Starter #1
hey everyone! i have a weird prob.. 95 dodge ram 5.9 magnum. when i start it it runs rough - horrible. as it idles the check engine light comes on. a while back i caught the intake on fire looking for vacuumn leaks ( appropriate - since i had to replace them all after that) anyways i melted a little bit of a fuel injector plug and wire protector. . later when plugged into a snap on to dial in my distributor (cam sensor) fuel syn to +4 degrees i noticed the #2 injector had an intermittent circuit fault. coincidently - the book doesnt # the injectors, but the burnt one is on the same cyl as the #2 plug. this is the only code coming up also.. and the worst symptom other than a cold start bad idle is a throttle hesitation when stompin on it.

more info - im running one step hotter plugs to kill detonation. think it getting colder this afftect anything?

Q1 - anyone know if the fuel injectors are numbered the same as the plugs/ cylinders?

Q2 - where the heck would i obtain the connector with its 6 inch 2 wire lead? (not the dealer) junkyards here suck btw

thanks to those who reply
 

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What book are you using for that car? Look up the ohms reading for the injectors and do a test on them to see if any are out of range. To answer the question about the injectors being numbered I'd just call the Dodge service department at one of your local dealers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
nice name frued

im using a haynes, and the chrysler service manual for that model. its a giant book that has alot of info but it doesnt say. also i called the dealer - they dont kno. ha ha go figure no wonder i wont pay they're service fees. and the inject0or ohm rating is .14 i believe but - i have tested them many times they are all good. they are all new also. ford 19lb/hr inj. any ideas?
 

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Injectors and plugs are numbered to the cylinder they mate too.#1 spark plug is going to have the #1 injector.That is simple.Dont know where you would be able to find the connector if the salvage yards there are no good.Maybe find one in a yard fairly close and have someone mail it to you.Bad thing is that with an injector harness I would be cautious using butt connectors in line.For every but connector installed can lead to a voltage or ristance drop depending on application,plus that is one more area for moisture to enter your electrical system and begin the corrosion process.Good luck-ron-
 

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Discussion Starter #5
right

i was thinking that the typical wire twist with heat shrink on it might cause a drop in resistance.. yet a less than perfect connection a rise. how would you suggest i go about connecting the piggypack?

thanks for the info on the # coordination.

r4r
 

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I work on diesels,when I have to pull weatherpaks apart I use a small screwdriver that I grinded the edges off of so I could pull the terminal out of the connector.If you can pull them out of the fitting just put the new one on.I doubt the integrity of the terminal end was damaged or the injector would not fire at all.You may be able to use a paper clip do do this trick,first thing is to look inside the female end that you pull from the injector,see if it has a small tab on the terminal holding it into the connector,using the paper clip,gently press the tab down to release the lock feature of the terminal,easily remove the wire and terminal from the connector.You may have to p[ull the lock tab back out a little before new connector is installed.Push the terminal and wire back in the exact location as removed ,pull on wire to be sure that it is locked in place.Hope that clears things up a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks castle

are you talking about replacing the terminal that connects to the injector itself? or feeding wires into the terminal that splices the specific injector wires into the circuit that fires the injector? speaking of which i hadnt even thought of that- it is probably spliced via some kind of but connecter already. if i get it from a junkyard then i could dissassmble it there and do the same on my truck .. also if this is the case it could very well be my problem huh?

thanks again RC - r4r
 

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May be spliced but then again there is a good possibility that it has a single wire from the ecm for each injector to prevent current loss.The ground would probably have a splice in it though where all grounds for the injector harness meet up at.I can not swear to anything here,since I do not work on cars all day now,its been about 10 years since I did car repair as a living.
What I meant by the repair is that all wire at the end connection will be stripped,from there a pin style terminal connector is attached,then that wire with the terminal is slid into and locked in place on the plastic connector that clips onto each indavidual connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
more

dont know if this helps or not -

when i start up in the morning the truck runs sloppy :thumbup:
its pretty nasty sputering ect.

after the truck is at operatiing temperature, i can kill it and restart and the check engine light is gone ha

what the heck would make the open/closed loop difference? ( if indeed this is my fuel injector prob)

thanks - r4r
 

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Ralley, I suspect your cold start enrichment is over zealous and is causing an extreme rich condition, resulting in the poor idle and the O2 sensor is trying to correct, but can't thus the check engine light comes on. The shut down and restart is now in the normal circuit (no cold start enrichment) thus O2 sensor is satisfied, thus no check engine light. I am not familiar with how to adjust your cold start enrichment, but you should be able to find that out.

I would replace the scorched injector wiring and injector to solve the intermittent injector firing.

Trees
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
TREES!

im not getting a o2 sensor code at all -

the o2 sensor is fine

also if its rich... when i start it.... if i stomp on it - it would backfire out the tailpipe right? or would it die ? lol im pretty sure it dies and revives after a sec.

i dont think there is a way to adjust the start up enrichment stuff.... its the infamous obd 1 system
i dont think there is any way to even adjust the timing except using hotter/colder plugs or dialing in a cam maybe.

note: was running ok after warmed up - not anymore. its getting colder here (NC) truck runs like a motorcycle thats been sitting all winter. cant seem to get the cobwebs out.

its noticeably worse in the rain, or when cold. the codes stored are 12, 37, 27, 27, 23, 55. 12, 37, 55 are worthless.
23=Intake air manifold temperature sensor is out of range
27=Injector number # output driver circuit does not respond to the control signal
listed twice i assume there are 2 injectors not responding?
how do i check a fuel injector circuit? check the wires gonig into the harness?
the air temp sensor its relocated, so thats an easy fix. i moved it to the air tunnel when i installed the mp manifold. that wouldnt cause this much of a prob tho??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok trees

YOU WIN TREES. I MOVED MY IAT BACK TO THE INTAKE AND ALL PROBLEMS ARE GONE. ( I HAD RELOCATED IT TO THE DOWNTUBE)

SO WHATS THE DEAL? WEAS IT JUST TOO COLD TO HAVE IT RELOCATED?
OR DO YOU THINK ITS SOMETHING IN THE WIRING HARNESS WHERE THE IAT WIRES COME OFF?
( THE HARNESS IS IN THE OPPOSITE POSITION AS IT WAS )

HOW DID YOU KNOW IT WAS AIR/FUEL PROB?
 
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