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64Joker
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Discussion Starter #1
Make: Chevrolet
Year: 1964
Model: Impala SS
Engine: 327
Tran: 350 Auto

Task: Connecting new fuse underdash wiring harness.
Sub Task: Connecting "directional signal switch" connector to after-market
Ididit Steering column connector.

Condition: Headlights, Tail-lights, brake-lights, parking lights are functioning.

Not Functioning: Turn-signals

In testing the "directional signal switch" connector, of 8 wires, only one tested live with 12v, is this wire dedicated to the "horn", or ?. Thanks in advance...
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

The Horn should be a ground, not 12 volts..

I don't have a pinout for an IDidit Column, But I do have one for most pre 90's GM's...I think that is what your dealing with..

1964 Chevy Directional signal Column Harness:

****Pin------------color---------------Function****
  • 1...............Black/Light Blue......Left Front Dir. Lamp, and panel Indicator.

  • 4).............Black....................Horn Relay

  • 6).............Black/White...........Stop Light Switch.

  • 7).............Blue.....................Right Front Dir Lamp, and Panel Indicator.

  • 8)............Brown...................Hazard Flasher.

  • 9).............Purple.................Turn Signal Flasher.

  • 10)...........Black/Yellow.........Left Rear Directional lamp.

  • 11)...........Green.................Right Rear Directional Lamp.

If the Ididit Column is GM compatible (and I think they are..) Then it's a matter of straight forward wiring..

If It is not GM compatible, You will need to get your DVOM out, set to OHMS, RX1, Calibrated to 000, and Continuity Check the column harness For Function Vs Pinout..and wire Accordingly with the above chart.

The Turnsignal Wire, Pin 9, Purple Will have 12 volts on it with the key on..It wires Thus:

12 Volt Fuse Buss side of Flasher.-->Output side of the flasher---->Pin 9 PPL.

With the Key on or off: The Hazard Flasher should have power on the output side of the flasher, Pin 8, Brown. should have 12 Volts.(not all are set for Hazards, may be unused)

And With the key on or off , And brake light switch activated or jumped, Pin 6 Black/White Should have 12 volts.

Pin 4 of the Harness, the Black, Should have GROUND on it with the horn button Depressed, and go to the horn relay Coil in the engine bay. Power from that relay comes from the Regulator, and the Battery terminal tie point on it.

Does that help?

Doc :pimp:
 

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Doc.

Will he need to add a 4-way flasher can?--I do not recall the 64 as having emergency flashers.

He may need some input as to how to wire in the 4-ways.

FYI----Ididit is GM compatible---------

Also---Ididit, American Autowire, Flaming River---should all have a connector or Jumper to connect to your original 64 plug.

Ididit offered one for my 59, but as I rewired the complete car, it was not needed----(new harness came with GM TSS connector)

Bryan
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Yeah, he will if it wasn't stock before..

I was using a 64 Chev Full sized drawing, and it listed it as a pin function so I included it..but don't remember seeing too awful many of them back then, that's why I added (If So Equipped)..

KEWL..Ididit IS GM compatible..wasn't too sure either if they had their own thing going and you needed a "Gender Bender" for different applications or If it was Plug and Pray..

Bryan59EC said:
Also---Ididit, American Autowire, Flaming River---should all have a connector or Jumper to connect to your original 64 plug.
Does this mean YOU do need a Gender bender for a 64? or is it still plug and pray? or do you mean, to replace a missing connector?

Doc :pimp:
 

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I remember GM had 2 sizes of connectors
Once when I replaced the turn switch on my 79, I also had to buy a jumper harness to go from a short to a long connector - or visa versa--long time ago.

But the switch in the ididit is a GM switch----even has a GM pn on it

Bryan
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Yeah, that confirms the compatibility of the plugs..The pin confiq is going to be the same..So long as the Connectors physically mate.

Doc :pimp:
 

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Hey---Just found the adaptor for the turn switch

SC1015------At Classic industries------includes hazard harness and can + fuse for hazards 39.95

Has an Ididit logo in the pic-----probably American autowire

Bryan


PS-----i would think that the connectors all changed in 69 with the cahnge in the columns all across the GM line.
 

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Joker
Have you already purchased the little harness---
Did your coulumn come with the Hazard can and fuse

It appears your diagram shows one------but, did you get it with the column?

Bryan
 

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64Joker
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Discussion Starter #11
Hazards

After further review (see ididit wiring in previous post), it appears the "hazards" are included in Ididit harness...
 

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That harness will also plug into your existing 64 connector
Cost a bit---save a lot of headaches

Bryan

Also---Seem to remember you putting in a NEW dash harness----hate to cut that up to get the signals working---
After that purchase---I would buy little harness connector
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Yeah, you will need a "Gender Bender" if Ididit Didn't provide you the extra small adapter harness..

I seem to remember they needed Gender benders , but wasn't sure it was just for non GM systems to Ididit or all of them..

If you Don't have the Hazard flasher on the stock Fuse buss, All you need do is get a heavy Duty Flasher, and socket..Wire one side of the flasher to a fused 12 volt constant source, the other end to the Hazard flasher on the column..case solved..for about $5 bucks..

Doc :pimp:
 

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64Joker
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Discussion Starter #14
I d i d i t

Bryan, yes, the ididit steering column did include the small wiring harness (see previous pic posted) from the new column to the original stock chevrolet wiring harness. The wiring color codes on the stock do not match pin for pin to the ididit so I will attempt to match accordingly... Will keep you posted.
 

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Perhaps Doc can pop back in and give you a wire color code for the dash harness TS connector.

On my 59, Pink went to the left sig/brake-----original body harness
Ppl went to the right sig/brake
Blk was the tail
Grn was back-up

Quite possible that yours is similar,
I am not sure when the color codes went to the Grn/Yel/Brn as we know it today.

Bryan
 

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64Joker
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Discussion Starter #16
Tests Results

Using Doc's wiring diagram and Bryan's additional information, here are the results of my analysis:

1. In attempting to match up Doc's wiring diagram to the Ididit diagram, most of the wires "color" codes match up on both sides.

Exceptions:
The original (after-market) turn-signal connector tests positive at 12v (on or off ign switch) on the black wire (the only wire that tested live with switch on or off)! Assuming this should be my connection to the "stop light switch", when connecting the Ididit "stop light switch" (white wire) to the 12v black wire, I get a horn black! Is it possible my horn at the steering wheel connection is stuck in the "pressed" position, or ?

Additional Notes:
I'm not concerned or interested in whether the hazard lights work in this
configuration, if need be, we can disable if need be...
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

The Black wire SHOULD be at ground potential WHEN the horn button is pushed..I should go to the Horn button inside the column and ride on a brass ring Via a "Brush style" arangement..If you have a Constant 12 volts on that wire, you have something mis~Wired..

The Black / White Wire should have 12 volts on it ONLY when the brake pedal is depressed (or seriously bummed out.. :D ..just kidding) This wire comes from the FUSE BUSS Hot at all times Buss, to the switch, then to the Column harness, and should be not energized when the brake lights are off..If they are, it could be mis~Wired OR the switch is configured wrong mechanically for the application.

This is from the point of view of the STOCK wire harness side..not the Gender bender, or the Ididit side..

If I read it right, the horn blows when you step on the brakes? yes/no?

If that is the case, you probably have it mis~Wired to the brake lamp switch, ..Before you step on the brake brake lamp switch, you somehow are getting 12 volts to the horn relay..this would be "Equal potential" and not effect the relay (both sides at 12 volts) When you step on the brakes, the total system grounds , through the lights is energizing the horn relay..going from 12 volt positive to a quasi ground through the lights..and blowing the horn.

Try checking that out, and see if that isn't the happening..

Doc :pimp:
 

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64Joker
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Discussion Starter #18
Follow-up for Doc

Doc, Let me restate:

Doc quote:
"If I read it right, the horn blows when you step on the brakes? yes/no?"
Answer: No

When connecting any of the following 3 Ididit harness wires (yellow-lrd, green-rrd, or white-stop light) individually to the black (12v) stock harness wire, the "horn" beeps. Should I continue checking the horn at the steering wheel side?
 

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64Joker said:
Doc, Let me restate:

Doc quote:
"If I read it right, the horn blows when you step on the brakes? yes/no?"
Answer: No

When connecting any of the following 3 Ididit harness wires (yellow-lrd, green-rrd, or white-stop light) individually to the black (12v) stock harness wire, the "horn" beeps. Should I continue checking the horn at the steering wheel side?
Doc here, :pimp:

WHY would you connect the horn to the turnsignal harness or Brake-lamp harness??? :confused: :confused: :confused:

The BLACK wire is GROUND (ONLY) from the horn relay Coil..The reason you are probably reading 12 volts at the black wire, is because the coil is at rest, not drawing ANY current or doing ANY useful work..To a meter it looks just like a straight piece of wire if ungrounded..(known as a loaded ground..) To prove that theory, remove the red wires from the horn relay, and measure again..I'll just bet it reads "000" on the meter.

That wire SHOULD go to the "G" pin which translates to the #28 pin through the gender bender..and NOWHERE else..

Hooking it up to the directional lamps is giving a quasi ground THROUGH the lamp filament (just like a fuse) like the relay, the flow See's it as a straight wire..to ground at the lamp socket..hence, the relay activates, and the horn blows!

Try checking that out..

Doc :pimp:
 

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it possible my horn at the steering wheel connection is stuck in the "pressed" position, or ?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Happened to me, For the longest time I could not figure out why my battery kept dying while I was working on the car. (horn disconnected---relay active)


At the moment I cannot recall whether it was an issue with the turn signal cancelling cam (a bridge from the horn contact to the TS harness), or the horn button itself.

The Ididit coluns are designed for 69 and later GM steering wheels, you are not by any chance trying to use your 64 are ya??? This may open up a different can of worms with the horn grounding. If I am not mistaken, the Cancel cam on the 64 system is attatched to the steering wheel, where on the 69+ and Ididit, is a separate piece that drops onto the column and is guided by the steering wheel.

Also, check the length of the contact pin for the horn, most replacements need to be trimmed.

With my Ididt coulumn/OER GM comfort grip wheel, and horn package, had to trim 'bout 1/4" from the pin.

Bryan
 
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