Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had a real hard time dealing with insurance and bodyshops concerning painting my 911. It currently sits stripped down to bare metal with new front fiberglass fenders. My local jobber sells Dupont/Nason. I originally was going to go with SPI however I am having a hard time finding a local shop to paint over it. So for no better reason I will be doing the Nason product line.

Question. My plan now that it is stripped and da sanded down to 80 is to use a silicone and wax remover (441-05) followed by their etch primer (491-17). At this point I can do filler work. Once ready shoot their (421-08) acrylic primer/surfacer. Spot work followed by lots of blocking. Further coats of the primer and more sanding. I will finish off with a sealer coat before sending it off for paint.

Is this a proper order and would you change any of my steps.

Thanks, and have a great weekend
 

·
Paintshop Dog
Joined
·
404 Posts
I'll be the first to chime in with something I'm certain I'll get lots of back-up on. Use epoxy primer instead of etch primer. The stuff way out performs etch at this point in automotive paint evolution. Other than that you seem to have the general idea. Get that thing clean as heck before you put anything on it. The longer its sits bare the more vulnerable it will be. And...
BTW, I pretty much refuse to paint over somebody else's primer work. It's like building a house over a foundation that you're really not sure about. Not to mention, IMO, Nobody else can get it prepped good enough for one of my paint jobs :mwink: Just teezin!.... But really, anytime I have, I've made it very clear that I can't be responsible for what happens in the long run. So, I guess my point is, do it right. Because, it's probably gonna all be on your shoulders.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I checked out the Nason site and they do have a Epoxy primer (491-35). Hopefully my local jobber has it in stock and I can start tomorrow. I have been reading as much as I can here and have learned so much. The last time I did anything bodywork related was years back so their is a huge new learning curve. I do have a good collection of tools, shop space with a scissor lift and radiant heating. Today I have spent mostly cleaning all the nooks and crannies in preparation of my start this weekend. I know the complications of having someone else paint over my work. I would paint it myself if I had booth access. I have done several motorcycles over the years and have been satisfied with the results. My main reason is since my insured amount payable is low and not having been working I would like to finish this as reasonable as possible and this seems like my best option. I do have the time

Thanks for your input
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
SPI isn't as well known as you would think it should be. Going to any shop that mainly focus's on insurance work and bring up aftermarket products that are discussed here will only get you a blank dear in the headlight look. Should have told the shop it would be in primer and left it at that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies, as an update I ordered SPI and am following their "Perfect Paint Job" Most of the filler work is done. Hopefully this week I will spray one more coat of their epoxy followed by 3 coats of the 2k primer the day after. So far so good, i am a little slow and end up sanding/filling more than I should as it seems to all end up on the floor! Getting close though :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
The only place you have to use sealer is where you have broken through to bare metal, supplies are expensive no sense wasting time, money and products. Sealer has usually a one hour flash time then a window as to how long you have before it has to be re-coated with out sanding,you will have to find out your window for the product you are using.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
Youve made a good choice with your paint material and any questions about reduction or application can be answerd on the SPI hotline designed for customers just like you...If you would like to see some questions someone would have theres a thread called "lacquer thinner question" he has painted his car with very good results just like what your going through...Good luck to ya... :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks dbm, Barry set me straight over on his site. Being a Sunday and all I could not bring myself to phoning and was hoping someone with the knowledge would chime in. I used what epoxy I had left and ssprayed my doors, hood and bumpers yesterday. This morning I hit them with three coats of SPI 2K. Now I am going to make a drink, sit back and watch paint dry.

Thanks everyone :welcome:
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top