This is why I have preached and preached with passion
TO NOT SANDBLAST SHEETMETAL! And for that I have been beat up on a number of sites by guys saying it can be done so do it.

This is really sad, it isn't that easy to get 1939 Dodge doors, and it has put this guy in a terrible position!
The saddest part is many of the people beating me up don't even understand what is happening to stretch the metal, and why it is difficult to repair.
It is NOT heat as most believe and I at one time did too. The metal actually gets cooled when being sandblasted, remember you are blowing a lot more air than sand on it, so it gets cooled. I tested this myself, the metal was VERY cool to the touch when sandblasting it.
What is happening is the sand is acting like little hammers hundreds of thousands of little hammers, smashing into the surface of the metal thinning that surface. The
SURFACE of the metal is getting larger just like thinning a piece of pizza dough. By this thinning and it being larger than the area
under the surface it warps. Of course even if the whole area all the way thru the metal is getting bigger it is going to warp. But as I understand it, the top surface is mostly what is being effected by the tiny pieces of sand acting as miniature hammers.
I personally have no idea how to repair it as when it happened to me it was on a panel that I was making a sign out of (a 1928 Buick door) and I just caved and paved because it didn't matter. I personally shrank it with a large torch and water just to get it from oil canning and I covered the door in a gallon of bondo. As I said, it was a freebe give away sign I was making for store I worked with so it didn't matter if it was covered in bondo. The shrinking disc is probably the best bet as Mike said. But how do you shrink just the top surface of the metal? I don't know, maybe I am off base there and the shrinking disc is all you need. hopefully someone with more metal skills can come on here and shed some light.
Brian