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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I'm puzzled on this one. I have had the right front brake (drum) grabbing first and hard. While trying to adjust these drum brakes, I found that the front left was not doing the job by looking at the inside drum (lots of rust).

Figuring that the wheel cylinder was the problem, I replaced that tonight and cleaned the inside of the drum (that rusty stuff). I backed off the right front all the way and took it for a short spin. It is still grabbing on the right front and practically takes the steering wheel out of my hands.

There are no proportional valves, just a straight lines from the master cylinder to all four brake systems via the T's. All the lines are clear and bleed without too much effort on the pedal. Both front pads look the same in life (the right star adjuster is all the way in and the left is about quarter inch of thread showing on the star adjuster).

Any insight might keep this mind intact on this one.

Thanks!
Gary
 

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Only thing I can think of, is an obstruction in the lines......probably the rubber hoses. But, you say it is bleeding well..................

I would replace both hoses anyways....as they may be 40+ years old.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Poncho62. I thought there may be a restriction but there is not. the cylinder should push the pads all the way to the drums (which is not happening due to the showing of rust).

I wonder if the right side wheel cylinder is bad? Can a bad cylinder push harder too if it goes bad (I never heard of that one).

Another option I am looking at is the rear possibly causing the car to veer to the right when applying the brakes hard.

Too many options and I don't want to start replacing parts to eliminate it.

Thanks,
Gary
 

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shoe on backwards

Check the break shoes to be sure the long shoe is on the rear of the backing plate. not both short shoes on left side or any other set up, long shoe on back of backing plate, both front and rear of car . If you have good fluid flow they should work fine if all other parts are in right place. Good Luck.
 

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Yeah, short shoes to the front is an excellent item to check.

How about checking the brake pressure using a pressure testing kit? Most kits I have seen have two gauges so you can check one wheel's pressure against the other when depressing the brake pedal. If you don't know of anyone who has one, perhaps your local repair shop can do the test for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Toymobil! Great insight here ...this might be the problem. I will check that out tomorrow ...this could be the problem as I have been working on this in the garage for six years and just had it on the road the past couple of weeks.

I got this the day it was taken from a barn and put out to pasture (literally), so this helped preserve the rest of the car ...not the mechanics which I have found many problems with the previous owners "lack of mechanical skills" (i.e., had the intake tappet on cylinder two installed wrong). I bet this is the problem too.

Thanks,
Gary
 

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Kbawi,
If I can add my $.02 here - get it sorted out then convert at least the fronts to disc brakes. I had a Pontiac Gran Prix that was about this vintage. There were several times I prayed for an anchor, a hole in the floorboards to drag my feet - anything to help it stop, and in a straight line. The guy that bought it killed himself in it - and I always wondered if he might have missed dead centering that tree if the car stopped better. Ugly !

Dave
 

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I can agree with that....I am changing my 62 Pontiac to front disks this year. There are brackets available from Scarebird That will fit your 62 Chevy. You then use later model GM calipers, rotors and master cylinder.
 

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These are cheap insurance - good website for non-Ford applications that are hard to find. If the quality is good, worth a look - first I've heard of them, but as a Ford owner, what do I know about the rest of the world??? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Dave
 

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Drum Brakes

Try looking at the left shoes while pressing the pedal, easy, don't blow the cyl.
also the star adjuster being all the way in sugests some thing not right. also, wheel alignment makes for pull, as well as oil or fluid on the shoe. could be miss matched shoes. i ran a 54 with only one brake in the front for a long time with out a problem, untill having to hit em hard, then i spun out at 50 mph.
 

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It could very well be the left drum on your car is glazed and this is why the right side is grabbing harder?

But also the metal brake lines do get obstructed by sediment build up over time. (ask me?)

The only cure is replacing the hard, steel brake lines. If you're not handy bending/fabbing things like brakes lines there are pre-bent lines out there that yes they are not a 100% drop in replacement, but they will get you close.

Places like Classic Chevy sell these kits and I'm certain there's a late-great parts dealer (1958-1964) near where you live. If not try Gene at Star City Classic Parts. He has a web site. Gene is a great guy to deal with and I am in not way connected with him.

You could also consider switching your car to a duel line master cylinder since it should have a single line if the car is original? A duel line system is great in that if you loose one system (either front or back) you still have brakes to get you stopped.
 

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I bet if you change the brake hoses your issue will go away. This is assuming everything else is assembled correctly. If the shoes have ever had fluid leaking onto them, replace them. You will never get all the fluid out of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Anything is worth a try at this point. I switched the left and right drums this evening and still get the pull to the right when applying the brakes (more so when applied hard).

I have good fluid flow through all bleeders ...but I may have some defective shoes from working on them. It is only the right side which pulls. I may even try swapping the shoes right to left and see if the problem follows (shoes can't be that much $ ...I'm getting cheap in my old age!).

Not many things get to me mechanical ...but this one's got me stumped.

Thanks,
Gary
 

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I have good fluid flow through all bleeders ....

You can get what looks like good flow out of a brake line and the hydralic hose or steel hard can still be blocked from sediment.

I fought something very similar on my very first car before. I happen to look in the hard line one day while goofing around in the barn and noticed the hard line was better then 50% clogged off.

:(
 

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open the bleeder valve and if the fluid will not flow on its on then you have an obstruckion. Could be eather rubber or metal line, but as long as the master cyl. is above tha bleeder valve then fluid will flow if everything is clear of STUFF. Good Luck. Toy.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ALL;

I want to thank everyone who provided feedback on this matter. I changed all of the front brakes today (shoes, springs, star adj., rubber lines, short metal lines, master cylinder last year, etc...). I bet I had oil or something on the right front shoes which cause the severe grabbing conditions I noticed.

Looks like that was the culprit, :cool: but I have all new metal and rubber and synthetic asbestos (whatever shoes are made of now). And they are working fine now ...except for minor adjustments of the shoes.

Thanks again people,
Best Regards (until next time)
Gary
 
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