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Ed S.
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Looking for a DuPont Mix for engine compartment Semi-Gloss Black in a 68 Ford Mustang. I would prefer a single stage if possible.

I can mix in a flattening agent and experiment a bit but I was hoping that maybe somebody has done the legwork already. I really don’t have much time for playing around before it gets too cold in my unheated garage.
 

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The majority I have seen done or done, people have used epoxy.
You can adjust the sheen of your Dupont epoxy by adding a splash of fast or slow urethane reducer to match the factory sheen as well as adjust your wetness of spraying.

Off top of my head I would say your DuPont epoxy sprayed normal with two wet coats will be right there when it drys with out any screwing around.
 

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semi-gloss black

believe it or not, a friend of mine who is into bow- tie chevies (55 ,56,57's) and has national winners uses blitz black in spray cans for tlc in his engine compartments. he is also used sometimes as a national judge at these shows.
i use blitz black on my fender wells, trunkfloors and floor boards.
it would be up to the individual. like all choices you would have to take in consideration the value of your car and the quality of material you plan to use.
all paints from the highest quality to the lower quality have their place in the market or there would be no market for them.
rather than hear criticism, it is best to inform people of their limits and the advantages and disavantages
some people are limited on their choice and some are not.
 

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I have two early Mustangs and like you I searched for something that looked right but the only thing I found was in rattle cans, with Krylon simi-flat looking the best. The Krylon looked great at first but unfortunately it was total crap in the durability department like most rattle cans and did not look good for very long at all. I finally did what Barry has recommended and that was to use black Epoxy, looks great and is extremely tough! Another advantage to using the Epoxy first is that if you are disappointed with the appearance you will still have the best possible foundation for whatever paint you do decide on but IMO you will find the Epoxy itself to be a really good choice. :)
 

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Ed S.
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Discussion Starter #5
I know of one vendor (NPD) that claims that they have an exact match in a rattle can but it’s probably enamel.

When you say Epoxy, do you mean primer or a topcoat? I see that Dupont sells a Hot Rod Black (HHM-6400) under their Hot Hues line. It’s a 2k single stage that will not chalk or fade. And then there’s a clear (HHM-5300) that can be mixed as 50-60% Semi-Gloss, 20-30% Eggshell or 0-5% for Flat.
 

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Epoxy is epoxy primer as finale coat.
Number of reasons is the flatness in how the epoxy lays and the ease of changing gloss as well as being solvent and brake fluid resistant witch is most critical as you start putting the car back together.

Not sure your painting experience but epoxy sprays as easy as base and inside engine compartments with all the nooks and crannies could be a bear with a single stage paint trying to get slick and even for the factory look I would have to say impossible or let me say I'm not good enough to do it.

I as*u me your doing a Restoration and if you are you will note not all items under the hood are same gloss.
The picture I'm attaching not sure how good it will be to see but like the radiator is a different gloss and also painted with epoxy where the walls are flatter.
A number of items are different glosses and these should be noted for proper job if that is a concern.
 

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Scode68 said:
When you say Epoxy, do you mean primer or a topcoat? I see that Dupont sells a Hot Rod Black (HHM-6400) under their Hot Hues line. It’s a 2k single stage that will not chalk or fade.
QUOTE]

This Hot Hues flat is REAL flat - much more so than any '68 Mustang engine compartment ever was - but as an overall nostalgia look is nice for a car topcoat. I pissed off a guy at a show when I asked him what the top coat color was going to be - it looked like primer to me.

My recollection of '68 Ford engine compartments was almost a semi-gloss, but mine was a '68 Torino GT and a '68 Country Squire (kids, ys know), so.....

Dave
 

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Ed S.
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Discussion Starter #8
Barry:

I guess that knocks off one thing from the list of thing I might try. Would it really be that tough? I’m not doing a show car so I would consider it a semi-restoration or freshening up. I like the original look so that’s why I was looking for something.

Ireland:

Yes, It is more like a Semi-Gloss even though I see many cars with a satin finish. I’ve seen a few cars that still had clean original paint in their compartment and I like the look. I figured the smother it was the easier it would be to keep things clean also.

This is a picture of what I have but the welding is now done.


 

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Ages ago I tried to flatten some paint. I put a a lot in and did not get much effect. I know the flattening agent sat for a while and I only stirred it.

I have learned more recently that the flattening agent must be mixed with a shaker just before use. The flattener settles quickly and you can not get an accurate reproduceable mix if you do not shake. My paint dealer was hesitant to even sell me the flattening agent because he knows hobbiests tend to have this problem.

I talked to my neighborhood ACE hardware and they said they would shake the flattener for me. The paint dealer is 45 minutes away so that is not an option.
 

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Ed S.
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Discussion Starter #10
I see a few PPG people on a Mustang site saying,

Scotch-Brite followed by DX330, one coat of black DPLF, then 2 wet coats of the catlyzed black topcoat.

and some guys saying,

1C DAR9000 Black Acrylic Enamel
3/8C DX685 Urethane Flattener
1/3C Enamel Reducer (Use the correct one for the air temperature - no short cuts!)
1 oz DXR80 Urethane Hardener

I don't know! I don't like the look of the epoxy primer and think it's to flat.

 

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I guess that knocks off one thing from the list of thing I might try. Would it really be that tough? I’m not doing a show car so I would consider it a semi-restoration or freshening up. I like the original look so that’s why I was looking for something.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

As far as tough and cleanup its not going to get much better.

My 2-cents worth? That color you have is worth about $5,000 extra with all things being equal. If I was not restoring I would be base clearing the engine compartment with that color.
I'm talking a mirror finish like three coats of clear, wet sand a couple of more
People would die to give you money for that!

Now that you saw the picture, I'm deleting it as that was a very high dollar car that I sold a few years ago and you never know about how people feel about seeing their engine on the web. Some that would bother more than a picture of their wife.LOL
 

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Ed S.
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123 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
This was the first time around back in 1989. I did it with some semi-gloss rattle cans from Rickles. It had some decent gloss but was just flat enough for me. If I could find something with a little more gloss I think I would be set.

 

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Paintshop Dog
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Scode68 said:
When you say Epoxy, do you mean primer or a topcoat? I see that Dupont sells a Hot Rod Black (HHM-6400) under their Hot Hues line. It’s a 2k single stage that will not chalk or fade. And then there’s a clear (HHM-5300) that can be mixed as 50-60% Semi-Gloss, 20-30% Eggshell or 0-5% for Flat.
Go with the HotHues black it rocks! I've used it on several Mustang engine compartments, and for the black on the hood of a '69 Mach 1. it is a great product that has just the sheen you are looking for.

The problem with that PPG ratio is it varies with temp, humidity, and how thick you spray it. the HotHues is consistant.
 

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Ed S.
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123 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
colormecrazy said:
Go with the HotHues black it rocks! I've used it on several Mustang engine compartments, and for the black on the hood of a '69 Mach 1. it is a great product that has just the sheen you are looking for.
Do you have any pictures? So would you say it’s a Semi-Gloss or a Satin? I guess it depends on how wet the coat is also.
 

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Paintshop Dog
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Sorry no pics. But, it is a Semi-gloss. The shop I used it at restored the only Mustang I've heard of getting a 100% at Concourse. We actually had to re-do the firewall because it didn't have any seam-sealer gobbed on it from the cal-panel seam. They had boogers on them factory, so Concourse insisted on it being there, along with color over-spayed on the underside of the car. To get back to the point, I'm certain you'll love it. The other reason I like the stuf is it is consistant, no matter how wet you shoot it!:thumbup:
 
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