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This type of insulation and sound deadener when used on the inside of doors, where is it installed? What about rain? Can it get wet? How do you keep it dry?
Gene
 

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I do not install any thing inside the door that will absorb moisture. By design, that rain, sleet, and snow that hits your door glass drains into the door and then out the bottom. I use spray undercoating for sound deadening, even though the fine print on the cans say not for interior use. If the car catches on fire, you want to get out as soon as possible because of the fumes (as if you would linger in a burning car!!)

Trees
 

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57halfton said:
This type of insulation and sound deadener when used on the inside of doors, where is it installed? What about rain? Can it get wet? How do you keep it dry?
Gene
I've used dynamat under the door upholstry on the inner door panel. I tape plastic sheet to the door panel first That way the plastic seals out moisture and air. The dynamat dampens (attenuates) sound vibrations. I have used the peal and stick rubber/plastic sound deadener's on the floor and trunk where you can't afford for moisture to get under it. It keeps the metal from vibrating. This kills resonance from the speakers and exhaust. I managed to get a Fox Mustang pretty quiet despite the Flowmasters.
 

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I use Raamat's stuff. Its basically a copy of Dynamat's xtreme product for about 1/3 the price. Its a butyl rubber adhesive layer bonded to an aluminum foil layer. Its very easy to use and I've been very impressed after using it on three cars.

It sticks like glue and won't absorb moisture. I have not used the lizard skin stuff but I hear it works well also.
 

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J C Whitney sells a dyna mat style insulation pretty cheap. I use it on the inner side ot thr door skin.
Don
 

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Stick-on mat products are probably not a good idea on an inner door skin

Many old cars used a glued-on sound deadener mat on the inside of the door and quarter panels in the passenger compartment. When and if the adhesive begins to fail the mat would flop out from the door skin. Subsequent to this any rain, sleet, snow melting and coming inside the door/quarter panel would pool in the mat and eat the door skin over time. Also, when these mats flop around they can jam window mechanisms.
That os whay most modern cars use a sprayed on material similar to bed lining.
 

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Is that you Dean? You are right about the necessity of sealing the doors but you should leave a way for trapped condensation to get out..
Thanks for helping out on the seat springs. My tired old butt needs some relief! :D

pasadenahotrod said:
Many old cars used a glued-on sound deadener mat on the inside of the door and quarter panels in the passenger compartment. When and if the adhesive begins to fail the mat would flop out from the door skin. Subsequent to this any rain, sleet, snow melting and coming inside the door/quarter panel would pool in the mat and eat the door skin over time. Also, when these mats flop around they can jam window mechanisms.
That os whay most modern cars use a sprayed on material similar to bed lining.
 

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The shop doing my car said they do a lot of them with undercoating sprayed inside the door and quarter skins but do make sure to keep the drain holes open at the bottom. Then they put Dynamat on the door behind the door and interior panels as well as the floor. Makes the car super tight feeling and sounding.
So based on that I think I'll let them spray the insides for me when they do the underside.
The rest is up to me so I'm also interested in Dynomat $ alternatives.
I'm not worried about stereo acoustics, but my engine and exhaust could be unbearable the way it was before, nothing but factory carpet and backing.
 
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