[396chevelle]

Ok, I recently have had some issues with my HEI and decided its time to step up a little and I was thinking the e-curve would be nice! I like the easy adjustments! I'm pretty savvy with electronics, so I don't think it would be to difficult to set up, but the components is all I would worry about. I'm sure you could use some dielectric grease to help some. Anyone have good results with them. Also I thought I read somewhere though that you had to change the cast iron gear out if your running a hydraulic roller cam? I have a hydraulic flat tappet would I still need a different gear or is the cast iron compatible with a flat tappet? Thanks for your input!

 

[Greg T]

Ok, I recently have had some issues with my HEI and decided its time to step up a little and I was thinking the e-curve would be nice! I like the easy adjustments! I'm pretty savvy with electronics, so I don't think it would be to difficult to set up, but the components is all I would worry about. I'm sure you could use some dielectric grease to help some. Anyone have good results with them. Also I thought I read somewhere though that you had to change the cast iron gear out if your running a hydraulic roller cam? I have a hydraulic flat tappet would I still need a different gear or is the cast iron compatible with a flat tappet? Thanks for your input!

I'm running an Ecurve on my 388 sbc and love it. A bit pricey, but I absolutely love the thing. Setup can't get any easier. Set it to lock, stab it in, fire the motor and just let it idle about 1300 rpm, adjust for max advance, shut the motor down, adjust the two switches to give you the desired curve and done.

I left the existing gear on rubbing against a 2201 Edelbrock hydro-roller cam and so far no problems.

 

[Irelands child]

Cast iron camshafts will need a cast gear and as normally supplied on MSD products. A steel camshaft (many if not most roller camshafts are steel) may require either a steel or bronze gear, with the steel lasting longer (Fords usually need steel). There are also engineering plastic gears - composite - which are supposedly good for all camshafts.

Some good info here: Distributor Gears, Iron, Bronze

 

[spinn]

The e curve gave me some problem.

The curve selection can alter base timming. So check it with a light when you do your changes. A no brainer , but can cause a bit of confusion.

The big one for me, cap orientation. The cap is oriented using two tiny roll pins. There is no mating slot and notch. The msd cap inside has ribbing all around which can hold like the notch. Once I thought the base was turning advancing timing. The bolt was not loose. It was the cap that was turning , the roll pins were pressed along the cap perimeter.

The screw cap upgrade solves this.

 

[396chevelle]

Ok, thanks for the input guys! I went ahead and ordered one, so hopefully it will be here tomorrow! SPINN, I'll look into that screw cap conversion! Thanks for the heads up! GREG T, I called MSD and Comp Cams to make sure I was good with the gear that comes on it and they both said I was good with the flat tappet, but if I run the roller I would need to change it! Glad all has been good, but I just wanted to let you know cause I hate for the cam gear to wear out and you get metal shavings in that motor! Ireland, thanks for the gear compatibility. Cast iron comes stock on the e-curve. Thanks everybody! Sure hope it don't crap out! Cause it was $$$$$!!!

 

[Greg T]

Ok, thanks for the input guys! I went ahead and ordered one, so hopefully it will be here tomorrow! SPINN, I'll look into that screw cap conversion! Thanks for the heads up! GREG T, I called MSD and Comp Cams to make sure I was good with the gear that comes on it and they both said I was good with the flat tappet, but if I run the roller I would need to change it! Glad all has been good, but I just wanted to let you know cause I hate for the cam gear to wear out and you get metal shavings in that motor! Ireland, thanks for the gear compatibility. Cast iron comes stock on the e-curve. Thanks everybody! Sure hope it don't crap out! Cause it was $$$$$!!!

Thanx for the heads-up! I'll check that out and see what I need. I read the directions in full and nothing was said about the gear at all. Since rollers are the norm these days I would have thought they'd be compatible. Thanx again!

 

[bygddy]

Unless they have fixed them, the instructions were terrible for setting curves, enough so that when I called msd they apologized and laughed a little because the calls were constant. The product is awesome, easy as pie to make changes, start retard was handy as hell for my locked 36°. Been in the car 3 summers and lots of miles, 3 diff owners, and as far as i know still works perfect.

 

[Greg T]

I just spoke with MSD and they assured me that NO GEAR change is necessary in order to use the E-Curve with a roller cam. It is just fine right out of the box.

 

[396chevelle]

Good deal! Kinda of worried me. I'm not sure why, but when I was on the phone with him msd that day I asked him if it would work with a hydraulic cam out of the box and he asked me did I have a flat tappet or roller and I told him flat tappet and he said your fine then if it was a roller I would need to change it! Sorry for the confusion, but I'm glad yours is good! I guess it's all in who you talk to when calling these places! By the way I love this distributor soooo easy to adjust and play with! I did see a couple reviews about the circuit board shorting out because of the metal fragments from the distributor contacts. I wonder if you could put dielectric grease on the boards to prevent this! I've done it on other stuff and it keeps moisture out also. Anyway, to be safe Im probably going to pop my distributor out after a few miles and check the gear just to be sure.

 

[Greg T]

Mine has been in for a few hundred miles. I've had the cap off a couple of times but have not pulled it out. I'm using mine with a 6AL box.