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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 72' chevy 1 ton.I recently Put a 350 in:
350 bored .030 over 9.25:1
256H XE cam
Gear drive(noisy)
Camel hump heads 2.02/1.60,1.52 magnum roller rockers
Performer rpm intake
Edelbrock 1406 carb
TH400 Stock converter
I only ran it for 8,000 miles.Before I decided.It just wasnt enough.So I've been rebuilding another engine to replace it.
383 .040 over 9.6:1
268H XE cam
Gear drive(noisy)
Vortec heads 1.94/1.50(Changed springs and to screw in studs)
Pro magnum roller rockers(polylocks,1.52 ratio)
TH700-R4 with TCI Breakaway converter
I've been thinking about either running a Performer rpm air gap intake,with the 600cfm.Or a Edelbrock pro-flo efi system.
My question is has anyone tried this system?I have'nt installed fuel injection on older cars before.I thought the idea of not having to use a laptop would be easier for me.Has anyone had any problems using this system?Im not worried about buying the system.Because somebody is offering me a brand new system for $750.00 still in the box.Is it worth it to buy?Would there be any trouble down the road?I drive this truck everyday.So it needs to be reliable.Any info would be appreciated.
Bonzipenguins
My question
 

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I put one on a 91 suburban with a 355cid setup. I think the system works decent. It's limited in it's capibilitys with the narrow band O2.
What are your end goals with the truck?
I know ... big question.......
Sounds like you seem to want more power... if you just built a 355 less than 10,000mi ago and want more! :)
The Pro Flow won't accept Nitrous or blower/turbo so don't buy that if
later you think you'll be adding somthing. It's just a limited system on injector size and calibration for camshafts.

If your going to turbo it (which would be incredible) go with a Accell or FAST.
You'll spend more on it to begin with but it's a system that can grow with your power.
I know that's off the deep end but it's not that difficult to setup and you won't be looking for more power.

Your going to be happy with the transmission that you are putting in. That low 1st gear helps get a truck like yours going! The heads will also make a big difference. Now that I think about it..... Is the Pro Flow your looking at made for the Vortec heads??? Most are not!!! Definatly check that out!!!!

For every day Mild with limited feedback or capibility the Pro flow will work. For any kind of real adjustability and the ability to grow with your power hungry needs... spend the extra and get a good stystem that can do anything you want.
Good luck!
~Scott
 

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I have two Pro Flo Systems and am very happy with both. One is what you need for your vortec heads and that is the Pro Flow 3507. It has the 1000CFM 4 barrel air valve. It is installed on a 383 also that has the Edelbrock Etech 200 heads and 10.2 to l compression. The cam is about as much as you want to go with the Pro Flo system. My hp is estimated at 475 at the crank and 450 fts torque. The other system is the 3505 for the pre 87 heads and has the 750CFM 2 barrel air valve. It is on a 300 horse 327 Vette motor. I gained an estimated 15 % hp, torque and fuel milage when I converted from a Q jet on a Bowtie duale plane highrise. I am very happy with both of these systems because I drive my vehicles 6-8000 miles a year and on long trips as well. They are extremely smooth and reliable. I especially like the onboard diagnostics/tuning capability with out a laptop because it is always available and very simple to use. This simplicity is what makes it limited when it comes to super performance. I also like the redundance of two coolant temp and alternator out put guages as well as the inlet ait temp and manifold vaccum that is always available. I like being able to play with the timing and fuel curves without worrying about being able to return to my basic settings.

Are you going to be able to tell if you have gained anything by going to EFI? In your case of switching to a 383 in your truck, you will not be able to tell what you really gained from the EFI. You would have to get your truck on the road with a carb and then switch to EFI to see/feel the real gain. In my case of the Pro Flo 3507 on the 383, I could realize a gain because I had operated the motor with a Q jet and an Edelbrock Torquer intake before making the conversion. This was limited information though, because the Carbed version was in a different and heavier vehicle. In the case of the 3505, the motor remained in the same vehicle.

Would I go to the added expense of the Pro Flo system again? In a heart beat!! I guess you could say I put my money where my mouth is when I went back and added to my perfectly good 327 after a year of outstanding performance from the 383.

Trees

On another note, my bud has a 72 Chevy PU that we had put a mild 355 in when we built it. It was turning a TH 400 and a 3.08 posi rear. We then installed a 700R4 and really liked that change. A bit more muscle to get it going and a 23% drop in cruise rpm and about 1.5 mpg increase. The truck would sit for a couple of weeks at a time and he did not like to grind on it to get the gasoline flowing so he asked me to put a TPI on it, which I did. It now cranks right up regardless of how long it sits. He did gain noticable HP and torque and another 2 mpg increase. He is now a big believer in EFI, even the limited TPI system.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is a vortec system.My friends only selling it to me because he needs the money to pay on his house.Im not planning on adding a blower or turbo.Although that would be sweet.When I built this 355 I liked it.But I just did'nt like the cam.It had great power and mileage.It even smoked the tires easily.But it did'nt sound a lot different than a stock cam.I could tell that it did'nt sound stock.But if nobody else can.What fun is that?I decided to go with a 383 because the other engine had torque.But I felt like it could use more.
I originally had a stock 402 in the truck,with a th400 and leaf spring,10bolt 30 spline 4.10 posi rear.Im planning on rebuilding it with a powertrax diff. and 3.73 gears.
I've drove this truck everyday since my parents gave to me when I graduated high school.I once A month drive it to L.a from Bakersfield(200 mile round trip).I also drive it to work.Thats partly why I considered having the OD trans,EFI,and sb.I liked the big block.But I only got 8mpg with it.And the sb got 18.So I guess what im saying is I want mild performance.Just more than the 355 had.
I actually took the 355 out and put it in my fathers 69' C10.
 

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Bonzi, if you don't want the unit and it is 100% there, then I sure would scarf it up and be glad to pay the freight and give you a $100 tip for your trouble!!! You will love it for what you want to out of your truck except for the cam issue. You are going to need at least 14" vacuum at idle to make this a smooth runner. You can call Edelbrock EFI tech and tell him what cam you want to run and the rest of the particulars of your motor and he will tell you if it will work. Let me know and I can give you the name and number.

Trees
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Comp said this cam should make about 17" of vacuum at idle.Edelbrock said it was o.k.When I asked them last week.Im planning on buying it.If I dont end up using it I'll let you know.But I really think I want to run it on this 383.I've just never setup efi.So I really dont know much about them.Are these easy to setup?Im not the best at wiring.Hows the throttle response? and overall driveability?And how about the cold/hot start up?
Thanks
 

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Edelbrock instructions are good and the tech support is super. The wiring is a snap because the harness is not only well labeled, there is only one set of male/female plugins for each circuit that will work. Ie the cable set for the throttle position sensor will only plug into the TPS and on down the line. The only exception is the injectors and you can not screw those up because you can easily determine which is the left and right sides and the way it is wraped, the rear injector is powered by the shortest wire bundle and on to the longest goes to the front cylinder. The only wiring you have to do is run the wires to the fuel pump, cut to length and attach the ends and hook up as per instructions and a #10 red wire is run to a battery source, cut to length, add end and hook up. There is one wire you have to hook to switched power and that is it. Mounting the computer and running the big wire bundle to it can be a challange but in the overall scheme of things is a snap.

Cold starts and hot starts are no different. You turn the ignition on and wait for the couple of seconds for the fuel pump to run and come to operating pressure and shut off. You then go to start and it fires up and goes to about 1000 rpm and then does a timed reduction to warm idle (about two minutes on a 30F day. You do not need to touch the accelerator ever hot or cold. Hot starts are the same except the return to normal idle is almost instantaneous. Instructions for initial start up and setting base timing is straight forward as well as setting desired idle speed. Fine tuning can take some time, but if you understand your PC enough to get on HR.com and communicate and post pictures, you will not have any problem stroking the simple Diagnosic/Tuning unit. Since you are installing on a 383, the first thing you will do is make a 6% increase in what is called Gloabal Fuel since the unit is pre set for a 355. This means the injectors will dump 6% more fuel per firing, regardless of what the conditions are. Your fine tuning will let you go back and increase or reduce the amount for given circumstances.

Before you hand over the money for this unit, you need to get the packing list and go over it item by item because missing items can make this an expensive proposition. But most importantly, Edelbrock ships a new unit with out a chip, but the order form is in the package. You fill it out, giving your engine displacement and the cam specs. They then send you the correct chip as part of the initial purchase price. You need to make sure that form is there and still good with Edelbrock.

Trees
 
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