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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My electric choke on Summit Racing 4 bbl carb was getting 11.7 ohms but now gets 0. My red choke wire that appears to be around 14 gauge was connected to a orange wire possible 12 gauge that runs from my alternator to my regulator. It was connected with a blue Dorman type clamp. Understand not the best way. It worked for over 2 years. When I unclamped it, it seems my red choke wire was cut by the clamp somehow. I now tried a 12 gauge T clamp but only get 2.5 amps when tested connected and 3.5 when disconnected (just touching red wire with ohm meter).
Not sure what I should try next. I have been told to connect to the alternator STA connection but to do that I need to remove the alternator.
I am just confused why it had sufficient ohms before but now can’t.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My electric choke on Summit Racing 4 bbl carb was getting 11.7 ohms but now gets 0. My red choke wire that appears to be around 14 gauge was connected to a orange wire possible 12 gauge that runs from my alternator to my regulator. It was connected with a blue Dorman type clamp. Understand not the best way. It worked for over 2 years. When I unclamped it, it seems my red choke wire was cut by the clamp somehow. I now tried a 12 gauge T clamp but only get 2.5 amps when tested connected and 3.5 when disconnected (just touching red wire with ohm meter).
Not sure what I should try next. I have been told to connect to the alternator STA connection but to do that I need to remove the alternator.
I am just confused why it had sufficient ohms before but now can’t.
I’m back.
I have another question. I checked the orange wire with black sthat I was using for power which came from the alternator but not doesn’t give out enough now after 2 years. I put my red ohmmeter prong right into the wire and only get 3.68 reading.

As mentioned in the past it was showing 11.5 and more. Now I wonder what it might have also powered. Any ideas

I tested the yellow wire running right next to the orange wire and it showed 12.5 which is good. Problem is when I turned off the key it was still showing 12.5.

I know I should attach to the Stator connector but to sure about removing the alternator even though it is only 2 bolts.

shown in the pics orange and yellow wires mentioned above. The other 2 are wires on drivers side near firewall. I know 2 ren to the coil and 1 to the distributor. Would it be possible to splice into any of the others.
 

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I run my electric choke off the 12 volt supply from the coil positive side terminal. However, be advised that the instruction sheet with your carburetor advises against this.

That said, I separate my ignition source from the ignition switch as I run a decently large cam, 10 to 1 compression, and 18 degrees of static base timing so I control the ignition independent of cranking. Plus my minimum wire size is 12 gauge so I can deliver plenty of power to the coil and the choke thermostat heater.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I run my electric choke off the 12 volt supply from the coil positive side terminal. However, be advised that the instruction sheet with your carburetor advises against this.

That said, I separate my ignition source from the ignition switch as I run a decently large cam, 10 to 1 compression, and 18 degrees of static base timing so I control the ignition independent of cranking. Plus my minimum wire size is 12 gauge so I can deliver plenty of power to the coil and the choke thermostat heater.

Bogie
Thank you
 
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