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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing a new Chevy RamJet crate engine in a 65 Chevy Impala. After reading the included installation documentation, it appears to be a few connections like fuel pump, B+, gnds, and ignition to incorporate this engine. This seems to be entirely TOO SIMPLE using the factory ECM/wiring harness. I'm also using the factory serpentine package with all the OEM pumps, alt, and pulleys. Electrically, does anyone know of problems I need to be aware of? The under-dash harness is a stock repo item. Thanks.

Ronster2
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

If the new engine / Harness is a compatible set..It should be just that easy..Plug and pray.

The only interface problems you may encounter..Is the Instruments Vs The sender unit resistance..they may be way off..

Retain the old senders until you test the instrumentation and insure it is accurate..and if not..

take the old sender and the new to the auto parts house and get one that matches the old resistance , but will mechanically fit in the new block..and when you reinstall the senders, don't use a roll of tape on the body, and / Or glop a bunch of INSULATING sealer on the sender..It is ground for the circuit..put some anti~Seize on the threads and go with that, the threads are tapered like pipe and should not leak..

Charging system: If the new engine has a one wire Alternator, the Idiot lamp is not going to work, AND if the body has an external regulator, It must be bypassed..(bypass applies for a 3 wire internally regulated alternator also)heads up there..

Be sure you have a GOOD ground BUSS system in place:

Run a properly gauged Ground cable from the battery to any handy bolt at or near the starter, From that same bolt get a Battery cable at the parts store, that has two 3/8 ring terminals on each end and attach it there and to the Frame.

Next get some 10 gauge wire and ring terminals and run that from your bolt on the block to the Firewall, and another to the Alternator bracket or mount bolt.

Next get some Wire Braid, (Radio Shack) and install braid from the radiator support to the frame, Fenderwells to frame , hood to firewall, Doors to door posts, gas flap to body, tailgate / Trunk to body.

At each point the wire is grounded, Burnish ALL the paint and grease off to bare metal. Use a proper star-washer and lock. Use sheetmetal or Tech screws where no screws are available.

It sounds like a lot of work, but after you assemble all the parts, it's only a few hours to do..and you'll end up with a system that will work reliably for many years to come..and can eliminate that from your troubleshooting list.

BATTERY: Be sure the battery is of a type and group size that is capable of handling the new engine requirements AND support the new electrical functions..you may require a larger battery.

Install and use Fuse links..66 Factory did not have them, they didn't install them until around 1970..These are important for the system support buss, and the charging buss..Without them you CAN burn your rod to the ground!

NEVER install a fuse link INSIDE a passenger compartment..They do their job by heating and melting..and can cause interior fires AND release toxic fumes in a closed compartment.

BE sure all fuses and relays are capable of handling the new loads as far as engine/ Engine monitoring/ start circuits/fuel circuits.

BE sure the fuel pump is properly supported by the proper gauge wire..And install a relay on a pump that draws over 20 amps..a Pump that uses 15 amps supported by an 18 gauge wire for 21 Feet..is not going to run very well (If very long) Before you start experiencing pump losses/Damage, Heating wire, burned connections..and the like..

Doc :pimp:
 

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Just a question here---Safety related
Doc--Think it might be a good idea for a fuel pump inertia switch??

Bryan
 

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Doc Here, :pimp:

Safety Wise a rollover and/or inertia switch is always a good item to have .. and certainly an option to consider when installing the new system..

I guess it is a matter of perferance..and what application you intend the vehicle to be used for..Show or GG..is not a Real high priority..Strip or Weekend Warrior is a much higher priority...

Like an E~Disconnect, you can never have too much protection..

Doc :pimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks!

Thanks gang. Some very good info. The fuel tank is a Rick's Hotrod Shop custom unit with a 90 ohm sending unit and an in-board delco pump. I will be using a Dakota Digital dash unit that supports a 90 ohm sending unit, so there shouldn't be an issue here (hopefully). The ECM harness already has a fuel pump relay and and long wire for the pump connection. I'll definitely keep the electrical ground info in mind during the reassembling. I have encountered poor grounding problems in the past and know how important this step can be. I do have an internal regulator type alternator and bypass will be necessary and I'll need to work through that. Again, thanks for all the info.

Ronster2
 
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