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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys I am sorry to make another post but figured it would be best without all the other stuff from other posts on this engine. Below is pictures of what I am dealing with and I want to get this as clean as I can get and stripped down by this weekend if possible so I can start to get at the head gasket surface cleaning which is another topic.

I know its not bad but I am wanting to get all the dirt and grime off this thing and using a spray degreaser and brake cleaner and even using a wire brush is not getting the job done. I have a garden hose and no I don't have access to a pressure washer. I want to be careful not to get water in things and keep it on just the block. I want to have it clean to be able to paint it once its all said and done. I am going to try and use some oven cleaner next.

Anything else brush wise I could use that would work better? When using the wire brush and a hard toilet bowl type bristle brush its not getting off the dirt very well and spraying brake cleaner helps some but not enough to really get this junk off. Once I can get all the dirt and grime off I will put some paint stripper on it to get rid of as much paint as can.
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Any tips on what I can do? This is a first as I am used to working with stuff that came from a machine shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Thanks Johnsongrass but I don't have access to a power washer. Here is where I am so far. I used some oven cleaner and let it soak for a bit and then hosed it as best as I could. I then took my time with a degreaser and a wire brush and bristle brush and scrubbed away for three hours on this thing and also brake clean and at times on real dirty areas, gasoline with my brushes.

The oven cleaner is some powerful stuff leaving a stain behind after cleaning. Will put some stripper on tomorrow and see how it does.Worked only on the block for now. Thanks guys
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Get a wire wheel for your drill after using the paint stripper (love that stuff) for the rust.
The trick is to run in forward for some time, and then switch to reverse for some time, and then forward again as the bristles "lie down".
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Those are the flywheel bolts that came with the engine. I am not going to use those and I use grade 8 bolts on just about everything outside of head bolts and other things and on the critical stuff I always like to buy ARP stuff. There just there to keep things clean for now lol. I had the flywheel on and was attempting a compression test but starter was junk it came with so went forward without that part.

I a getting ARP bolts for the flywheel.Thanks for the tips on the wire wheel as I already got some to use and will be a first for that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will definitely be using a high temperature primer before I paint this thing that is for sure. I also read about a paint prepping spray but don't know what that is as I came across that term the other day. Going to get it as clean as possible then spray down with some brake clean and then air compress it and then primer it with a few coats and then two coats of paint.
 

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I assume you're doing a seal-n-shine. Pull all the ancillary pieces, balancer/fuel pump/manifold/valve covers, etc. Now would be the time to replace the freeze plugs. For cleaning the block, what works for me is Simple Green and a stiff wire brush. Spray it down with SG and scrub with wire brush. Pay particular attention to the flaky areas. You want to remove all the flaking paint. Scrub in all the nooks and crannys with a smaller brush. Scuff the whole block with a red 3M scuff pad then wipe down with lacquer thinner and blow dry with compressed air. For paint, I like Duplicolors engine enamel with ceramic line. Primer and paint. It's pretty durable stuff.

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks Evintho I will look into there paint. That looks pretty good on your engine. Also on replacing the freeze plugs, how would I do that with my engine being either on a cradle or engine stand? Things would move on me and I would have not way of getting the rear ones on the stand and it sits very low being on my engine cradle and would not be able to get a good angle on the side ones. The front ones under the motor mounts I can't get to with it on my engine cradle.
 

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Now would be a good time to invest in an engine stand. They're all over CL for $50 and under. You can get 'em even cheaper at swap meets. Picked up this one at a swap for $15.....



On an older motor, you have to replace the freeze plugs. They corrode from the inside out. They may look fine on the outside but could be ready to rust right through on the inside. Don't worry too much about the rear ones. The center one is your cam plug and I don't believe there's any coolant flowing behind any of the three in the rear. Focus on the ones on the sides of the block. Just use a hammer and punch on the top or bottom of the plug. That'll pivot it in the hole then grab it with some channellocks and wiggle it out. To replace, clean or sand any corrosion off the hole in the block, put a dap of RTV on the edge and use a hammer and socket the diameter of the plug to tap it in. Just tap it in flush or maybe 1/16" past flush.....no more. Try to get brass plugs. Any auto parts store should have 'em.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I already got new freeze plug on the way and I do have an engine stand and its a harbor freight 1 ton version but that thing just makes me cringe on how the engine sits on it and you just barely touch the thing and it wobbles and did not like the feel of it. I do what I can with it on the cradle and then will be transplanting it back to the engine stand to finish it up.

My harbor freight stand is not bad by any means but after seeing some pictures of folks who seem to got some some lemons among the batch with there engines sitting on the floor, I got the better ones back in around 2017 and it is not bad but they could have done more welding beads around the parts that hold the engine on the stand.
 
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