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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello --- Newby Me---
I own a dodge B250 with a 318 manufactured in 9/93. sold as a 94 winnebago. It has 222k on it and had a average comp of 155-160. kinda tired. I recently made a long trip pullin a trailer and it ran good. I have suspected some intake manifold leaks for a while but without removing some of the crap on top of the engine its hard to get a good look at it. I have smelled antifreeze burning in very small amounts and as i have replaced all of my hoses recently am pretty sure it is not there. leak was very small and no bad signs in oil or antifreeze. I am now in a place where it is parked for a while and at last start it leaked oil and water enough to produce multiple drips from bottom of engine. Hard to tell if they are mixed or separate leaks. Oil and water still look clean. I need to get in there tommorrow and do a comp test again tommorrow. Curious about intake man gasket. I need to make a decision on whether or not to fix it or start new. I figured you guys would be a very good source of info since i think this engine design goes back to the 60s. Any and all pointers and such will be greatly appreciated. I will post more tommorrow evening. thank you for your help.
 

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Be aware that these engines along with the 360 tend to crack cylinder heads at high milage. This will result in coolant use. Usually begins with a fouled plug on startup that quickly clears out.

Usually the rear cylinder, drivers side. cracks between the valve seats and then leaks coolant into cylinder under power. I see it all the time.
 

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TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
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It could be leaking from the water pump seal or weep hole behind the fan pulley and dripping off the area around the main seal and pan! Its a Very common sign before the water pump fails!

Jester
 

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Hello --- Newby Me---
I own a dodge B250 with a 318 manufactured in 9/93. sold as a 94 winnebago. It has 222k on it and had a average comp of 155-160. kinda tired. I recently made a long trip pullin a trailer and it ran good. I have suspected some intake manifold leaks for a while but without removing some of the crap on top of the engine its hard to get a good look at it. I have smelled antifreeze burning in very small amounts and as i have replaced all of my hoses recently am pretty sure it is not there. leak was very small and no bad signs in oil or antifreeze. I am now in a place where it is parked for a while and at last start it leaked oil and water enough to produce multiple drips from bottom of engine. Hard to tell if they are mixed or separate leaks. Oil and water still look clean. I need to get in there tommorrow and do a comp test again tommorrow. Curious about intake man gasket. I need to make a decision on whether or not to fix it or start new. I figured you guys would be a very good source of info since i think this engine design goes back to the 60s. Any and all pointers and such will be greatly appreciated. I will post more tommorrow evening. thank you for your help.
Leaks/drips under the vehicle are sometimes deceptive. Because of the fan and road wind, the leak- if it starts in the front- will often drip further back than where the leak actually came from. Usually the sides will not change unless the leak is at the top of the engine, like where the oil pressure sender is sometimes located on some engines, so if you see a leak on one or the other sides, trace it from the drip on the ground, forward to see what you can find.

Often a pinhole radiator or hose leak will be so fine of a spray that it's almost invisible while the engine is running. If you can, get under it after the engine is warmed up and shut off to see if there's anything to see.

If you suspect the head may be cracked, pull the plugs and look for one that stands out from the rest. Usually it'll be cleaned of carbon if there's been coolant in the cylinder. It might have an unusual color compared to the others, too.

But all in all, it sounds like the ol' girl is still pretty tight. If the compression readings are about the same across the board and you only have a couple drips on the ground, I would say that's pretty darned good!
 

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The other issue they have is that the coolant passages through the timing cover tend to erode at the mating surfaces. They can either leak out or in towards the timing chain area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you , Pics and numbers

Well , it was warm enough today to do some comfy tinkerin. I have my suspicions but am wonderin what you all think . I have attached pictures. anyone with the time to look at them and give opinion would be greatly appreciated. Driv side- 1-156, 3-179, 5-155, 7-161. Pass side 2-162, 4-160, 6-180, 8-155.
oil and rad leaks separate . etc. oil leakin into 3&6 comp up. substantially more rad fluid after comp test. definitely running down engine.
gotto go . more later.
Thank You
 
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