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Discussion Starter #1
I needs some advice on Street Rod radiators/electric fans. I have a 1936 Chevy, not sure what make of radiator is in this car, it fits within the confines of the grill shell, it's about 3" thick, 16.5" wide, 23.5" tall, and tank on top, has overflow bleed off port, upper radiator hose to top engine side of radiator top tank, bottom hose to bottom tank, passenger side. Does not appear to be aluminum, it's been painted black so not sure what brand. Need advice on where to consider purchasing replacement radiator and if the buy aluminum or other product radiator. Does anyone have any experience with 1936 Chevy radiator issues, running 350 CI, no transmission cooler in radiator, there is a a/c condenser in front of it. Really appreciate some assistance, would like to drive my car before I die.
 

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First off before you buy take your rad. to a shop and have it checked, might be plugged up??? Since you have an A/C cond. in front I'll assume you have a puller fan which is good.....considering the fan is a stout unit. Do you have a fan shroud? If all this checks out and you still want an alum. radiator then you just can't beat PRC, web site is PRCHOTROD.com.They make a beautiful unit and the price is VERY reasonable.....here's the one in my '32
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Radiator cooled the previous engine, not sure why it won't cool the new one. Yes, the electric radiator fan is a dorman product, fits 2005 to 2005 P/T cruisers. Rated 3000 cfm by dorman, has two speeds low/high. I have the low side running all the time, and high speed to kick in when op temp gets warm. Fan is covered with factory fan shroud, and covers all but the last 1" of the bottom of radiator. full side fit, snug, shroud starts at bottom of upper tank and runs full length of radiator except the last inch, which is pretty close to Ideal due to bottom water hose clearances. I took a plastic wrap tie and poked it though the radiator cooling fins, till exposed only on radiator, measured 3.5" thick. There are not a lot of empty honey comb air spaces, its full radiator. 16.5" wide, 23.5" tall, and 3.5" thick on core. It's a radiator made out of the original 1960's 1970's radiator material (brass?) I've got a high velocity water pump on it, non serpentine system, so it's flowing the correct direction, a 160 degree thermostat. it just doesn't stay cool, no head gasket leaks, will be checking vacuum tomorrow on engine to see what vacuum rate the engine has at idle and at higher rpm. Compression on the engine is 125+ per cylinder, closer to the 128/130 on compression. using valve notched pistons, I believe they were not flat tops, more of a minor concave but not serious. new cam/lifters, distributor, plugs, wires, intake, engine is balanced. rated at 330hp by its current builder.
 

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cooling

i rid myself of that hi flow pump.. it just might be pushing water past too fast to do it's work.. a 3 1/2" rad is a thick one.. at least 3 core. with 160 stat's what temps are u getting too ??
 

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You said it was painted. Too heavy of a coat of paint can also keep teh radiator from cooling. The air flow needs to cool the fins.
How hot does the engine get, have you checked temperatures at the top and bottom of the radiator to see if it is working. I would expect at least a 20-30* difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Radiator appears to be an Early Walker Cobra, yes it's painted black, not sure if it's factory Walker painted or someone squirted paint on it prior to me. Unable to get temps on car radiator currently, do not have thermal temp gun and car's not running. Interior dash gauge gets to 200 and I start shutting it down, when it was running. I've just got to do one thing at a time to resolve running issue. I'm considering purchasing a standard sbc water pump, and selling/trading the 100.00 weland water pump. just too many things to do at one time. thanks for the help will keep all posted as to what I've got done when it gets done.
 

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Its a new motor so it could be lean or the timing could be off, but it might just be a pocket of air stuck in the system. Maybe you could borrow a temp gun so you can troubleshoot after motor runs. 200 isn't ridiculous hot for a new SBC, was it ever on the road or is this just from idling?
 

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Sounds like this is a fresh build, and the heating issue is at idle, so unknown if it will also overheat at cruise speed yet? I'd agree that checking the radiator to ensure it's clear, but probably is, since it wasn't running hot with the old engine. More likely it's something to do with timing, valve lash, etc. that needs to be all dialed in to get it running at it's peak.
High volume pumps are often needed when a car is equipped with a more restrictive radiator, like a double or triple pass unit, as they need more push. But a std. single pass radiator may allow coolant to flow too quickly with this pump, and not remain long enough to properly cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Car was only on the road for about 10 miles (build shop to home) but on the way, got stuck in heavy slow traffic and funeral procession. Can someone tell me what is the best spark plug gap to use on this car using the Chinese Proform Copy, and AC delco R44TS plugs, I've tried 35, & 45, I'm not sure why the builder did this but when I pulled the plugs after getting home, they were at 50'.
 

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I have mine set at .035 with Pertronix distributor and MSD 6AL box. Same for my BBC with Mallory Unilite and MSD 6AL. I tried wider plug gaps, as MSD suggested .045, but they seem to work better at the stock plug gap.
 
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