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ok i am getting a new intake manifold and carb. ( edelbrock performer rpm intake and performer carb.) well my question is ..... is it hard to install... i mean i know the basics ..... my uncle(machanic) said its not hard but i really didnt go into detail with him on how to install it ......i know how to take the carb and stuff off but the destributor is what i am worrying about .....dont you have to mark your timeing ???? ... could someone give me a detail description of how to do that ??? i would let a mechanic do it but i'm not paying him a hundred dollars or more to do something i am confident i can do ...i am sure yall know what i mean ....

oh yeah its a alll stock 67' mustang coupe 302

7,345 Posts
Timing & Manifold replacement

Doc here:pimp:

On your timing, Your best, easiest Bet, is to bring the timing mark up on top dead center, pointing to #1 plug on the distributor tower. Mark the base of the distributor as to where the rotor points, and where the base sits using some point of reference (like the firewall etc..) and remove it there.

Do not rotate the engine while it's out, and you can put it right back in on your marks after you install your manifold. If successful, It will be right on time again!

Drain all your Coolant.

Pull all your Vacuum lines and MARK where they go. Pull the rest carefully, (fuel, water, temp, etc) and remove the old manifold.

Follow your Directions carefully, Keep debris out of the valley area, Put a cardboard or plastic cover in there and rags in the intake ports on the heads while you clean off the old gasket material and BE SURE they are clean, no old gasket material!.

Check your gaskets, Make sure they line up with the head holes, and before you put them on look at the gasket, some are marked "This side up" or Left, and/or reverse them may cause water or induction leaks. If you have Front and rear valley gaskets, be sure these are seated, and put a dab of sealer at the Corners.

After you get your New manifold on, use some sealer or locktite on the bolts, (anti~seize if Aluminum) and torque them down in two stages, working in a criss~cross pattern from the center out...Find out the torque for your car, probably 25 to 35 ft lbs, and make the first sequence at 15 lbs then the second to full torque.

Use White Teflon Tape on The water Fittings, such as the heater hose fitting and temperature Gauge sender. Use a proper sealer on the goose-neck fitting, and BE sure you install the Thermostat Right side up...(It should be marked "This side up") Be sure all hoses are tight, and the hoses are good,if not replace them now.

Install your new carb, with the new gasket, as per instructions...

NEVER use sealer on any carb parts!

Be sure the bolts are tight, and check the screws on the air horn (or bowls) to be sure they are tight. Use Yellow Teflon Tape on the Fuel inlet line (Yellow tape, made for fuel, oil and pressure or Vacuum) and CAREFULLY tighten the Line to the Carb, THESE strip or "TWIST" the fuel line at bottom easily, so be careful, you'll know why if you ever have to remove it again.

Use Teflon tape (yellow) on the Brake Booster Fitting (if so equipped) and Threaded Vacuum line fittings.

Re~install all your Vacuum Lines as per your marked list, You may have to refer to your Carb (if replacing it) instructions as to where they go on the carb.

Drop the distributor back in as per your marks, replace the rotor and cap, and Coil (if so equipped) and hook up all your senders and sensors.

Take a final look for anything you may have missed, and if good, In a quiet location, fill the radiator all the way full..listen carefully, does it sound like its draining some where? Does the level keep dropping? You may have a leak. Check the oil, Make sure you don't have any water in there. If all good, your ready for a trial!

Prime the carb, Carefully, and give it a start...It will stall probably until the float bowls fill up, and after it starts, Look for Fuel leaks..if good, check Vacuum for leaks, a Gauge should show 17 to 20 in Hg at idle, or if you don't have one, spray Carb cleaner at all Vacuum areas and listen for increase of RPMs, If you get an increase you have a leak there.

If It's all good, Take it for a short ride, Be sure it dosn't overheat or leak water at pressure, and operates at least acceptable.

If your putting on a new carb, you may have to tune that for optimum performance, refer to your instructions to do this properly.

If everything is fine, The last thing you should do is drain the oil and replace it and the filter, in case junk got into it. And drain off half your water, and replace it with Anti freeze.

Hope It helps!
Doc :pimp:
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