[DeathRattle]

I have found an oversight in my planning and need to get bailed out of this problem. Where can i take coolant from to go to my heater core. My water neck as one outlet and my proform elec water pump has one inlet. Do I have to run some T fittings and reducers or what. Or am I just dumb for not thinking about this before I had all my crap? Thanks in advance for replies.

 

[Hammerlane]

You can probably find a plugged port out of the back of the intake manifold as the heater core input. Just remove the plug, thread in a heater hose fitting, and make sure it is sealed up well. Then route your heater core out hose into a different thermostat housing that has the vacuum sending unit port opening like this one ( http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_13443_-1_11371 ) part #720-2557 and adapt it to accept a heater hose fitting.

Don't beat yourself up over the small stuff man. : :nono: : Save it for the really big stuff! : :spank: : Hope this helps.

 

[DeathRattle]

I only have holes next to the stat housing on the intake manifold. i have two 1/2 npt immediately next to the water neck. The coolant passages in the back of the manifold are blocked off. Are the cylinder heads an option for routing fluid from? Or will I need some sort of inline coolant pump? And if I run and inline coolant pump can/will that interrupt the coolant flow around the block?

 

[75gmck25]

On my SBC 350 with Edelbrock manifold the hose "out" to the heater core is connected to one of the fittings on the intake manifold (not sure if its a 1/2 fitting) and the heater return line goes to an extra fitting on the radiator. On other SBCs the return line goes to the water pump, but it sounds like that won't work with your electric pump. It wouldn't be that hard to braze another fitting on the radiator to use for the return line.

Bruce

 

[curtis73]

You can basically take water from anywhere near the top of the engine before the thermostat. That NPT port that is beside the water neck will work, as will any of the smaller holes in the side of the head. On a high performance build I might worry about flow rates being different on one head than the other, but as long as we're not talking about a 450-hp engine I think you're fine.

The thermostat is a restrictor to flow. Tapping in just before it means that there will always be potential for flow out at that point. Thats why the NPT port beside the water neck is what they used from the factory on most.

 

[DeathRattle]

So based on all these responses I could pull the HC in from right next to the water neck and put the HC out to one of the Mr. Gasket water necks that Hammerlane included in his post. I would rather not have to foot the bill of having to tig a bung the new aluminum becool rad I just bought. The new water neck would be alot cheaper.

 

[curtis73]

If your water pump has an "in" plug, use it. You'll get flow the way you're talking about, but mostly before the stat opens. I don't think you'll get as much flow once its open. Using the pump's "in" port will ensure positive flow at all times.

 

[DeathRattle]

Pump only has one port "in" for lower rad "out". What about the idea above though. Intake manifold port "out" to HC THEN to water neck with a second port smaller port "in" from HC. Thats what Im lookin for an answer on. Thanks for the replies

 

[curtis73]

Yes, I'd say that's the best plan in that case. That way you'll always have a pressure differential caused by the thermostat. You should get adequate flow to create heat. If you don't, I've seen folks drill and tap the inlet of the water pump casting for better/more flow.

 

[DeathRattle]

Well Ill try it. It is most cost effective method as money is running out on project and I still need to get the 2.70 gears out of the rear once I get it running. I need 3.73 gears for cam dur/stall. And while its at shop it will probably get a posi unit. Im not man enough to try a axle change like this.