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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to get a 65 Chevelle running after replacing all the wiring harnesses with a Kwik Wire 22 harness set, but the engine dies about a second and a half after the starter turns off; It runs for at most 5 seconds. It will keep firing while the starter is on, but then acts like it is fuel starved after the starter quits, bogging and shutting off almost immediately. The carburetor tends to flood when trying to keep it running off the starter like this.
Sometimes after the engine quits, there will be a gurgling noise like liquid is flowing somewhere.
We've tried changing the timing from one extreme to the other, its at roughly 8 degrees before timing right now.
We've tried bypassing the fuel filter in case it was restricting flow.
We've tried taking the carb apart, and couldn't find anything wrong with it.
We've tested for voltage at the coil; it has voltage both during the starter phase and during the run phase for the few seconds that it runs.
We triple checked the spark plug firing order.
We tried a completely different carburetor that was lying around spare.
We made sure all the vacuum nipples are capped to prevent leaks.
The fuel pump is a new stock mechanical pump, so it's unlikely to be a fuel pressure issue, though I don't know how ethanol diluted gasoline would affect leanness of the fuel mix.
We tried moving the kill switch that came on the fuse box into both positions without any difference.

We tried checking the coil wiring, but we've got 3 different manuals with 3 different opinions on how it should be wired with less-than-helpful MS Paint wiring diagrams.
Currently the positive comes from the battery to the solenoid, from the I terminal of the solenoid to the + Coil terminal to the distributor + terminal. Neutral safety is connected to the S terminal on the solenoid. There is also a Coil B+ wire run from the positive coil terminal to the fuse box. The coil negative terminal is connected to the distributor negative and the tachometer signal (tach doesn't work, so it's probably wrong, but that's what one of the diagrams said to do).

I'll link a couple videos when I can get facebook to work.
 

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A 1965 would have a resistive wire in the run switch position that reduces the B+ 12 volts (nominal) from 6 to 9 volts. This is needed for points ignition to reduce arcing across tge points which “burns” them. The start position on the switch is a 12 volt circuit to get a hotter spark when the starter is pulling so much amperage during cranking which pull the B+ down to 10-11 volts.

6 to 9 volts is not sufficient to operate an electronically switched distributor they really need the full B+ 12 volts all the time. You need to rewire from the switch such that the RUN terminal supplies a full 12 volts to the distributor and the coil. I say that as I don’t know where exactly your wiring is splitting or terminating typically these aftermarket distributors pick up module B+ off the positive coil terminal. Something to look for is an external distributor resistor 1965 is in this change era where GM was converting from an external resistor to a resistive wire. Since you have an aftermarket harness that puts another layer of uncertainly as to what voltage dropping mechanism is on the vehicle. I see Kwikwire has an HEI connector as an option, whether that means the harness is modified for a not resistor wire for HEI or a resistor wire if not HEI I don't know as I’m not familiar with Kwikwire but at 18 dollars for an HEI terminal end I’s suspect your buying more activity than just a terminal end.

Bogie
 

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The distributor red wire needs 12v power any time key is in run or start so it needs to be hooked to the fuse box too. The coil may need reduced voltage, depends on the coil.

disconnect the tach from the coil until you get it running
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the ideas guys i had a suspicion there might be voltage difference between the start position and run position.
 

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QUOTE:
there might be voltage difference between the start position and run position.

there is supposed tp be a voltage drop
hence the resistor wire
or a white rectangle block on the firewall
(ballast resistor) if it burns out, and they do, then in the run position you wont have power to the coil
also check the wires to the coil
2 on one side and one on the other
 

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QUOTE:
there might be voltage difference between the start position and run position.

there is supposed tp be a voltage drop
hence the resistor wire
or a white rectangle block on the firewall
(ballast resistor) if it burns out, and they do, then in the run position you wont have power to the coil
also check the wires to the coil
2 on one side and one on the other
He's running an electronic ignition , no voltage drop is needed .
 

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quote:He's running an electronic ignition , no voltage drop is needed .

system may still be intact with a burned resistor wire or failed ballast resistor.
Fix the cars system or bypass it
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After discovering a large puddle of antifreeze on the passenger floor I 0rdered up a new heater core. I was haveing trouble with the mech. water temp sender being right under the radiator hose so i think i ordered one that swivels that will solve that i hope Back to the elect issue.I'm going to undo the tach I may have that wrong. probably.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here are some pictures of the wiring, hope it helps
 

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We've tested for voltage at the coil; it has voltage both during the starter phase and during the run phase for the few seconds that it runs.
Is the voltage still there after the engine stops running?

And will the engine restart right away after it stops running, or do you have to wait a while?

The only time you need a wire running from the + coil terminal to the starter "I" terminal is if you are running points. The idea there is to bypass the ballast resistor (or resistance wire) to get full battery voltage to the coil for easier starting. Does your distributor require that? Can you post a link to the distributor specs and wiring diagram?
 

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Looks weird. Can you explain where each wire at the coil terminals goes?

Why the relay? A Chevy doesn’t need one like that the Chevy has its relay on the starter, I know it’s popular to put one in but it really serves no useful purpose, please explain its wiring? I see a pinkish wire that I can’t tell if it connects to the relay or not?


Bogie
 

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Finally got facebook to work, here's a video of the issue.
So, will the engine start immediately after it dies? Is fuel pump electric or mechanical?

And you said after it dies, there is still 12volts on the coil + terminal, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
My grandson is in the Navy and was here for a few days even tho we didn't get it running he did a great job of building the exhaust system I think it sounds great and it was fun working with him. To complicate matters this fuse panel has a kill switch I have no idea which position is on or off I will call quick wire. I tried both positions didn't seem to make a difference. As far as the Ford solenoid I may have been brainwashed on that. It makes a good junction block and makes a good place to hook up remote any way this what I have .Pink wire from I side of solenoid to + side of coil pink goes from + coil to fuse panel black wire from dist. to neg. side of coil red dist. wire goes to + side of coil. On the solenoid the only wire on the I side is the pink wire going to the +coil. yellow goes down to the solenoid purple to neutral safety switch when the engine is cranking there is 12v power on the i terminal. When the key is in he run position there is no power to s or i on the solenoid.
 
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