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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1988 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 302/5.0 fuel injected engine in my 1936 Marlene Kit Car. I carefully soldered all the wires! And pulled on them and sealed them one by one. The motor starts if I give the tiniest squirt of ether/engine starting fluid. Once going it runs great at all rpms. I drove the Lincoln before I took the motor out and put it in the Marlene. It started and ran fine. The engine has 94,000 miles on it. However, I cannot hook up the vacuum line to the MAP sensor! As soon as I do, the engine dies instantly! The sensor is good. In fact I tried a second one and the same thing. Both sensors check out on vacuum and electrical. I have new plugs and wires. Once I give it the tiniest squirt of ether it starts instantly and runs smooth and fine. Last Thursday I ran the motor for 3 hours at various speeds, letting it warm up good. During that time I stopped and started it several times to see if it would start on its own. Nada! Only with the tiniest (I mean tiniest) squirt would it start. I checked the MAP sensor wires for continuity to the computer. All great! During installation of the motor the MAP sensor was hooked up all the time. I just unbolted it from the Lincoln firewall and laid it on the engine. Also, I never touched another thing on the motor. Only the plugs and new wires. I now have Cherry bomb straight through mufflers and no cats, but still have the H.E.G.O. sensors in the exhaust. No air pump. Its sealed and capped off at the threaded fitting on the passenger side of the motor. All the wiring and vacuum sensors for the air pump are capped off. I can find no vacuum leaks and I am not using power brakes. If I try to put the MAP vacuum hose on at any speed it stops like it was shot! I'm using the original Mark VII fuel pump and and the purge cannister. I don't have a test computer for this motor, but I can tow it 20 miles to a mechanic friend who has one if need be. It has no body on it at the present time. By-the-way I am 69 years young with tons of experience working on cars. I even worked in Stuttgart, Germany as a Ford mechanic after I got out of the service.
Thanks a million for all your help!!
Ralph Miller in Dallas, Texas
 

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I put up the tools against$300
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I'm kinda going out on a limb here, but I think it might possibly be a timing issue. My theory being that the ether is dropping the temp of your MAP sensor, thereby putting your timing into a cranking range. Could it be possible that during the swap your dist got bumped? Or if you replaced the rotor when you changed the plugs and wires it was defective or installed a little off. Im really more of a chevy guy and I would probably wait for a few more responses before working on it from my left field theory.
 

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You can run self diagnostics on that
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

If that does not help go to
http://sbftech.com/index.php
and holler for Joel. He knows
EEC\IV

Have you checked your fuel pressure?
Might want to unplug your MAP...Wait a
minute,is it a speed density or do you
have a Mass Air Flow sensor before the
throttle body? If Mass Air the vacum is not
used on the MAP. Just out of curiosity try
cycling the key 3-4 times slowly,then see if
it will start. That should pulse the inj.

If SD unplug your MAP wires and check voltage
on the O\W wire,should be close to 5 volts
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Engine trouble

I borrowed a code reader and 81 and 82 came up. These are the Thermactor solenoids which I had hoped to leave off. I hooked them up and got an 11 on the code reader, but still no start. I only hooked up the electrical, but not the vacuum lines. Is this my problem?? I have no cats and I wanted to leave off the air pump, etc. because there is no space.
Thanks,
Ralph in Dallas, Texas
 

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I put up the tools against$300
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i think pertronix makes a bypass for the thermoactors. I think your probably getting a way to rich air/fuel mix. no cats can cause a rough idle / hard start condition which may be what you are experiencing
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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If it were rich, starting gluid wouldn't help.


Perhaps you need to see if the injecors are pulsing during cranking. Using a circiut testing light.
 

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Did you plug the holes where the tab\tad tubes bolt to the
back of the head? Or are they still bolted up? Could you hear the
fuel pump load up with pressure as you cycle the key.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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I wonder if the injectors are cycling long enough at cranking speeds to get enough fuel to start.

Have you looked into the various sensor slike, coolant, and ambient air, etc...

You might need to watch them in real time with a good scanner.
 

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I think a person needs to hook up the map
and find out if it is leaning out or going
rich on you. You are sure that you have
all the vac. fittings under the upper intake
plugged. I have an 88 T-Bird with the
motor tore down and it has 4 ports plus a
tree under the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
marlene kit car engine trouble

Thanks a million for all your help guys. I broke down and hauled it out to Tony Perkins of Perkins Performance In Rowlett, Texas. The first thing he did was to put his fuel guage on it. Key on engine off zip, nada!! Then a tiny squirt of engine starter and start it up! Started, ran, but no fuel pressure! After squeezing off lines and working our way back to the tank (right now all I have is a rail job) we took the line nearest the pump loose and turned the key on. Lots of gurgling, but no gas squirting out. So I took the pump out. I had to extend the pump, because I am using a 1978 Chevy van 20 gallon tank to fit the space. OK, it is 12 inches deep whereas the Mark VII tank from which I took the pump and sender is only about 5 inches deep. When I got it out I had forgotten to tighten one of the injector hose extension clamps!!! Tighten the clamp. put it back together. No gas squirting out. We could hear the pump running, but no gas! When we had the pump out I measured the gas in the tank with a long screw driver because it looked low for 10 gallons. It came to 3+ inches. Tony says: "Before we get too crazy, why don't you go and put some more gas in the tank". OK, I hauled it two blocks to Walmart and put in ten more gallons. Came back, turned on the switch and it started pumping gas out of the tube by the tank. Tony says, "Hook it back up and let's see what the pressure guage shows". Hooked it up, turn on the key 4 pounds of pressure. I tell Tony who was in his garage working on something important. "OK, start the engine", yells Tony. I reach for the starting fluid (cars on the trailer the whole time) as I turn the key. It starts instantly before I could squirt anything and the meter jumps to 38 psi!! WOW! Am I excited!! I yell at Tony: "It started by itself"! Out of the shop come the reply: "Hook up the MAP vacuum"! I do and it starts running even better! WOW, am I ever excited!! Then about a dozen people come out to see it and hear it. Tony comes out and revs it a few times and says: "sounds good". "Now shut it off and see if it starts again". I do and it does!! Well we rev it and mess with it and smile a lot and everybody is happy especially me. I don't even feel like a dummy. We all stood around for a half hour listening to it and shooting the bull. Then I hauled it back home and when I got back I decided to drive it off the trailer and up and down the driveway (about 8pm). I use a concrete block for a seat and it was GREAT!! Then I backed it into my "garage" (an enclosed carport. The city of Richardson won't let any thing be exposed anymore). I have 2 inches of clearance in the fence to get it inside, but I made it!! And today it started just as great! A couple of you said to check the fuel pressure, but I couldn't borrow a guage. Sorry for all the trouble.
Thanks, again and Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!!
PS, I extended the pickup another 2 inches. I will run it until it stops and see where I'm at. I thought I measured very carefully, but such is life. The tank slopes toward the front so it isn't exact science.
Ralph in Dallas, Texas (Richardson a suburb).
 
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