I have a 70 model camaro,and I'm using epoxy sealer/primer, what i was wondering is what is the best way to get it to the metal? I used a electric type sander,and for about 4 hours,and I almost got the roof done,and that is it. it gets overwhelming sometimes,especially when you are trying to go to super chevy,and the back half isn't done the front is done,but everything is also new,and I have sealed all of it.There is alot of little places I cant get to with sand paper,any ideas. I seen some sand blasting,but its suppose to be bad on the panels not sure,and its probably extremely high.Did i do the right thing going with this type of sealer?Could I use a chemical stripper what would be best?
epoxy sealer bare metal
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dboyett,
Do you have an Air Compressor? You will get a lot of differing opinions on this, but I am not a Aircraft Stripper guy as it can get into voids and not get neutralized causing a Paint problem later. What Grit and Brand of Sandpaper are you using? I have used 36 Grit 3" Roloc Discs (be careful with them if you use them) and it will take the Paint off fairly quickly. If you are using a cheap brand of Sandpaper it usually won't cut as well and you will go through it pretty quick.
I would not have any car Sandblasted-there are very few guys who can do it without warping Metal-another option would be to have it Starblasted (also called Media Blasting) which will remove all of the Paint and possibly the remaining Bondo (depending on the type of Media used), making the car ready for Epoxy Primer. I have had pieces done this way, and it is nice-wild guess on price of having your car Media Blasted? $6-800-I'm certain someone will correct me here-
I completely understand your frustration with how long things take-I have been working on my '35 Body for about two years and it is now in Epoxy, getting ready to be installed on the Frame-it will try your patience, just keep remembering what it will be when finished-keep your chin up, it's like they say-how do you eat an Elephant? One bite at a time!
Do you have an Air Compressor? You will get a lot of differing opinions on this, but I am not a Aircraft Stripper guy as it can get into voids and not get neutralized causing a Paint problem later. What Grit and Brand of Sandpaper are you using? I have used 36 Grit 3" Roloc Discs (be careful with them if you use them) and it will take the Paint off fairly quickly. If you are using a cheap brand of Sandpaper it usually won't cut as well and you will go through it pretty quick.
I would not have any car Sandblasted-there are very few guys who can do it without warping Metal-another option would be to have it Starblasted (also called Media Blasting) which will remove all of the Paint and possibly the remaining Bondo (depending on the type of Media used), making the car ready for Epoxy Primer. I have had pieces done this way, and it is nice-wild guess on price of having your car Media Blasted? $6-800-I'm certain someone will correct me here-
I completely understand your frustration with how long things take-I have been working on my '35 Body for about two years and it is now in Epoxy, getting ready to be installed on the Frame-it will try your patience, just keep remembering what it will be when finished-keep your chin up, it's like they say-how do you eat an Elephant? One bite at a time!
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I'd suggest using a small spot-blaster for those hard to reach areas. Just be careful not to heat the panel up, stay back, not to close. That goes for any mechanical method of removing paint. Even sanding with 36 or 80 grit can heat a panel to the point of warping. Like 35 said just be patient and earn that finished product. It will be well worth it when you are done, and you can say "I did that!" 
I'll chime in here to give a balanced view. I have had excellent results with the aircraft stripper. Yes you have to clean the surface thourghly afterwards but then a good paint job is all about cleanliness anyway. I've taken two cars down to bare metal using the stripper and while it is messy and requires good ventilation I have had no problems with the durability of the final job. Besides that I really hate sanding! If you don't want to use stripper for the whole job you might consider it for some of the areas that are hard to get to with sandpaper.
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Keep in mind that the bare metal has to be roughed up for the epoxy primer anyway. Media blasting will give you a great texture for the epoxy. Even if you get all of the paint off using a stripper, the epoxy won't do it's job without the metal prepped properly.
Aaron
Aaron
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Media blasting is like sand blasting but you are not using sand. Instead you use a media that is most appropriate for what you are blasting. For sheet metal crushed walnut shells are the norm. As for how much it will cost you, That is going to vary a lot depending on where you are. If you find a place try to contact some of the previous customers and make sure the blaster does good work. He could potentially ruin your whole car, so it would be worth the trouble.dboyett said:
My vote is for a combination of stripper and sandpaper/roloc. The stripper does a nice job on large panels and in nooks/crannies . It is pretty good at getting the bulk of the paint off (usually takes a two to three coats though) with minimal muscle. After that though you have to tackle it with the paper, etc. The nooks/crannies is wear I would think blasting really shines, but i don't have that luxury.
Chemical stripper works just fine to get off the majority of the finish if done properly. Apply the stuff on only a few panels at a time and put it on as thick as possible, while the stripper is wet cover it with thin plastic masking film and let it set for a few hours or overnight if there's many coats to remove. The plastic keeps the stripper wet and lets it work. Scrape off the softened finish with razor scrapers, putty knifes, and or plastic scrapers if the finish is lacquer and has liquified. When almost all the finish has been removed wash the panels with water really good scrubbing with a scotchbrite at the same time then dry. Washing with water is a must to nuetralize any stipper residue and wash it out of nooks and crannies. Then sand the car with a DA and 80grit, use a 3M Klean-n-strip disc for hard to reach areas and also a hand held spot sandblaster also works good. Clean the metal good with a quality waterborne Wax and grease remover and apply two coats of epoxy primer. Media blasting also works good (fast) but some media is to fine and won't leave a coarse enough texture for Epoxy primer.
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That is exactly what I was going to point out. Not only does it not leave a "coarse enough" surface but depending on the media, it may not leave ANY at all. Plastic media leaves NO etch what so ever in the metal. It looks like a brand new piece of metal, it is truely remarkable. It MUST be sanded after plastic media blasting.baddbob said:
In my area there is a place that will do a car for about $500 and it is the only way to go if you have the money and a place to do it.
Chemical, sanding, I have done it all and all have good points and bad points. To do ONE panel at a time with an orbal sander and 80 grit down to the factory primer and then go to 120 is my choice.
I can not say it enough, do ONE PANEL AT A TIME and get it into epoxy primer. Stripping the whole car can be VERY, VERY overwelming.
Brian
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