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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how much should I expect to pay to have dual exhaust done from headers to back of the car on '68 Charger. ill use flowmaster40 series mufflers, (probably buy some off of ebay)
 

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Too many hobbies!
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I'm gonna be interested to hear the answers to this, from your area.

Around here, $175-250, with turbos, or glasspacks is pretty standard. Sometimes less, depending on how much pipe, size,hangers, time, etc. They may cut you a break, or break it off in you, for providing your own muffs.

I do some custom bending for the diesel shop, here. Seems like he gets 125-175, depending on how involved it gets.
 

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It really is going to depends on how many curves and bends they are going to have to put in. For my truck, its about 12ft of pipe on each side. However I only need to bend the pipe over my rear end and then out behind each tire. That cost me 220 I think with turbos included. Now I have flows straight out the back which I did myself for my senior project (with flamethrowers).

Soon I am going to have Borlas swapped in, new pipe done all tucked up nice and neat, and an X pipe put in. I'll let you know how much $$ that costs.

500-600 seems awefully high IMO though.
 

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I did the exhaust on my 66 polara with 40 series flowies and it only ran me $220 from midas of all places. This was after I went to a small shop that I thought would be better, and got charged $350. What helped me was that I bought as much as possible from places other than the muffler shop, they charge outragous prices for their parts, thats where they really get ya. I would suggest getting the flowies from Ebay, there only $45 a peice, and then buying the 2 1/2 inch pipe from somewhere other than the muffler shop, maybe not all of it, but it will help keep costs down. If ya want to bolt it all together theres a kit from flowmaster thats 3 inch all the way, but they charge $850 for part #17382

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ive read that using mufflers right after headers will restrict headers and I dont wanna do that, so I guess Ill have to get full exhaust system, also Xpipe quiets down exhaust and I like loud exhaust, what should I do:confused:
 

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i was quoted $450 for complete dual exhaust 2.25" from headers back with turbo mufflers and chrome tips, and i think he even said that they mandrel bend the pipe too. the price however is in CAD wich is aproxx $300USD ish?
 

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Pure American Muscle
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I paid around $300 for my duel 2.5 w/ H pipe mandrel bent Flow Master kit. That was with pipes from the headers back to the rear of car. Then you add in $100 for both 30S flowmasters and another $20 for the header reducers. So that's around 420. It all really depends on your car and if anything special has to be done. The more tight spaces the more it cost.

Chris
 

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Man am I glad I have a friend in the buisness.I do know a guy,grew up with his son.He only charges me parts.From the headers back,2.5 with new hangers was $30.00.True duals.I do stop in there on an occasion with a large Papa Johns Pizza,and drinks for him and the guys though.Kind of my way of telling them Thanks.
 

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Do you have a place to work on you car?

If so you can order a complete set ( Summit catalog January/February 2005) Flowmasters American Thunder for your '68 for $489.95 Got everything you need. Bent to fit and got you H pipe there too.

If you can't do it yourself you'll have to ad labor to the cost. Around here it would be about $500.00 - $600.00.

Pappy
 

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mitmak

3" exhaust and headers???? will probably make your car a dog off the line, you need a very big motor and cam and launch rpm for that much exhaust

Buy a "cut and fit" H pipe ($35?) for the collectors (Summit-Jegs)
You can run long glass packs directly off the H pipe and have virtually no restriction, plenty of noise.
Clamp them on with good strap style clamps, a $40 pair (Summit-Jegs) lasts ? 3 years.
Use 30 or 45 deg tips to direct the sound out from under the car.
To close to the floors, use an aluminum heat shield (piece of roofing flashing), all you need is a 1/4" air gap from the shield to the floor.
Lousy low end torque, try smaller diameter tips for a little back pressure

Exhaust sytem price: ? $100 ?
 

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I got my 40 series on ebay for $50 each.Buy as much of the exhaust system as you can elsewhere.That way they only get you on labor.I got my 40 series welded on for $35 each and an h pipe for another $35.$105 out the door!3" is way too big.If I were you I'd go 2.25 or 2.5" flowmasters.bm

ps do not clamp your mufflers!!!You must weld them!!!Clamps always fail on mufflers!!!
 

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Going to dual 3 inch will potentially hurt the bottom end a little. However, I do not believe its going to affect it enough that you'll even feel the difference.

As far as muffler placement, most modern day muscle cars and exotics place their mufflers as close to the end as they can get them. As mufflers are more restrictive than open pipes, I imagine they do this to build up velocity before hitting the muffler. Seeing as how almost all real performance cars have this feature, there must be something to it.

I recommend welding whenever possible. That said, I have used clamps many times on my mufflers (as I was changing them out often enough to warrant this) and never had a problem with them. The key is to get enough overlap and then crank the clamp down and seal it properly.

Just some food for thought.
 

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exhaust

Just food for thought.
Several years ago I had cat-back duals put on my '95 GMC truck (350). Had to go to a couple of muffler shops to find the right guy but I didn't want to use mufflers and of course muffler shops sell mufflers so I had to listen to the usual b/s about why they couldn't do it but I found the right guy and the truck sounded great - not too loud but sweet.
Again, just something to think about,
Charlie Smith
 

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Clamps fail? When is this normal?

I've never welded mufflers on. Too big pain, to change them out, without destroying everything. The only exeption, is spotting a turnout, when there is no room for a hanger.

Now welding an H-pipe, or collectors, that's totally different. It is a permanent part of the system. Leaks at the front end of an system can let carbon monoxide get into your car. Not good to take a nap, while your driving.

Maybe your clamp are failing, because you are trying to use them to support the pipe, instead of using enough hangers?
 

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agree with you packratwrecker you should weld the H pipe, but....often if you do weld the H pipe to the collectors you can't get the headers off the car

(and that's why I say use "shortys"...long tube headers are a pain in the a## for 5HP)
 

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red65mustang said:
often if you do weld the H pipe to the collectors you can't get the headers off the car
Thanks for the vote, 'stang. Actually I meant, weld the h-pipe to the bolt-ons, not the collectors themselves.
Another little trick that works, is to use big block donuts, instead of collector gaskets. Depends on how the headers are built, as to whether i use single cone(late), or double cone(early) style. Moves the collector plates apart a little, so that they don't leak, even it you bend them slightly, when you tighted the bolts.
 
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