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Without the know how and right tools... It will be very hard to pull off...That's why I build the boxy type when I pro street a car..here is a few pictures,, Really easy to make..
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The box-type wheel wells seem like a better idea. A couple issues come to mind about it though.

The first issue is that there is a 'support' peice that goes from the wheel well to the back of the quarter panel. The end that attaches to the wheel well is curved so it fits the curve of it. It's difficult to explain, but I would have to tinker with that to get it to fit.

Also, about 10% of the front of the wheel well goes inside the body and is where the back passenger seats attach. I will have to do a bit of tinkering to get the box-type wheel well in there, but I am worried the rear seats wont fit in the same way.

I like the idea, I'm gonna think it through a bit to see if I see any huge issues. I'll have to look at the rear seats and support beam to see if it's going to be a major problem.
Thanks for the idea though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I was looking at those before but the width on them is way too big for my need. The height and length are perfect figures, but 23" is way too much. I measured 14" width on my current wheel wells.
 

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Sorry Killer,,, But don't put that in your car... It will tin can and they are paper tin... I have a bunch of people coming to me that wish they wouldn't have done it... Save your money and put some steel back in your car... You will be much better off...

Oh !!!! Not sure if any of you ever put a set together like what killer showed,,, I can say this much... You will never do it two times...:pain:
 

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I was looking at those before but the width on them is way too big for my need. The height and length are perfect figures, but 23" is way too much. I measured 14" width on my current wheel wells.
You have to cut them to your width and outer quarter panel inner contour shape, that is why they are extra wide.

They are also made of much thinner than stock GM body material, as these are intended for a race car where added weight is a concern. If you are going to follow this idea, make your own from the appropriate material thickness.

I still say that a whole rear 1/4 section of a rust free car - wheelhousings, some trunk pan and everything related, inner body structure and some floor pan under the rear seat along with the outer quarter skin - from door to rear bumper, for only $325 a side is a steal. Trim it up at some of the major inner seams, and install it all as one big piece, and bango, you are done and completed.

You're going to spend more than that trying to patch it in dribs and drabs
 

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Sorry Killer,,, But don't put that in your car... It will tin can and they are paper tin... I have a bunch of people coming to me that wish they wouldn't have done it... Save your money and put some steel back in your car... You will be much better off...

Oh !!!! Not sure if any of you ever put a set together like what killer showed,,, I can say this much... You will never do it two times...:pain:
Yup, 22 ga in steel. I bought (of all things) trailer fenders for my rear clip that are 16 ga and they have a nice rolled edge instead of the usual squared-off look. The only thing is, they are open and require panels to close them although it's just a flat sheet of steel.

Russ
 

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Yup, 22 ga in steel. I bought (of all things) trailer fenders for my rear clip that are 16 ga and they have a nice rolled edge instead of the usual squared-off look. The only thing is, they are open and require panels to close them although it's just a flat sheet of steel.

Russ
Very nice. :thumbup:
 

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Yup, 22 ga in steel. I bought (of all things) trailer fenders for my rear clip that are 16 ga and they have a nice rolled edge instead of the usual squared-off look. The only thing is, they are open and require panels to close them although it's just a flat sheet of steel.

Russ
Actually the Summit ones are even worse than that. They advertise 24 ga. :drunk:

John
 

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Cut the rot out and grind clean.

Cardboard and masking tape for templates. I use the poster board material its about 18g thick, just like the sheet metal you would use. if you run into problems. its just cardboard. chuck it out and start again. once your done. transfer shapes to metal, bend, bash, shape, cut fingers, done. looks like a weekend project.
 
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