All I can say is why? Why would you need to do that? First off as Poncho said, it is made by many manufacturers anyway, but it is more than just resin and strands. It has a talc in it for body and other componats DESIGNED for such use.
Below is some info on plastic fillers that may help out.
“Basics of bondo types”
"Regular" polyester body filler, and polyester "putty" is basically the same thing. They are both, you guessed it "Polyester" based. Polyester is what fiberglass is made of. The fillers have talc and some other components that give it "body", that is the basic difference between fiberglass resin and polyester body fillers.
The Putties have a finer ground talc than "regular" filler. They cost MUCH more, but are well worth it for skim coats and minor repairs. Being they are polyester they use a hardener and CURE like fiberglass.
The old "spot putties" DO NOT use a hardener and are simply lacquer primer . They are JUNK and should not be used.
Some examples of these products are as follows.
“Reinforced” polyester fillers:
These can be aluminum filled body filler for metal surfaces. It is very hard to sand and not good for the finish work (needs a skim coat of a “reg” filler or polyester putty) but will fill much more per coat reg filler and has more corrosion resistance.
A Fiberglass reinforced filler is similar.
Evercoat’s “Metal-2-Metal”, “Everglass”, “Kitty Hair”, “Tiger Hair”
3M’s 05815 Short stand filler, 05813 Long strand filler.
"Regular" polyester body fillers:
Evercoats RAGE or "Lite weight" and others.
3M's Lightweight body filler #058001
Evercoat's "Polyester glazing putty", "Easy sand" and others.
3M's "Flowable finishing putty"#05824 or "Piranha"#05821 .
"Spot putty" (junk, not recommended) Usually found in a toothpaste tube looking container.
Evercoat's "Ever-glaze" #403
3M's "Acryl-green" red or blue #05960,05964,05966
Dupont’s 2286S, PPG’s DFL17
personally I wouldnt, too much mess with it, I just like using bondo. I actually did one car recently that someone "very smart" replaced 1/4 panel and then just fiberglassed area where cut was made. Did horrible job, even sheetmetal was over 1" out than where its supposed to be, so I had to fix that crap. of course now its all nice and painted as I redid it in body filler.
ok.. I am a yacht painter. *IF done properly* I'll say that again.. *IF done properly* a 4:1 epoxy resin used with either +thinksil+ or +micro ballons+.. makes a BETTER filler then standard body filler. done this way there is NO talc.. No polyester.. talc, absorbs water..(metal water rust.......) and polyester, shrinks over time.. epoxy sets with NO shrinkage and No water absorbsion. HOWEVER it has to be done RIGHT! only draw back... NO flex. ie, door slamming..
Now shreaded mat ... that would be structural.. I only use this for crack repair.
If you have more questions on glassing and such..
I shape surf boards and like I said befor paint/repair sport fishing yachts in the sportfishing cap. of the US.. I play with glass ALL day long..
I am with you that it may be "better". But how much "better", is it even measureable, I doubt it. "IF USED PROPERLY" quality polyester body filler will outlast us, we well be dead and gone, the car in a bone yard and the filler will still be there perfect. It will not shrink, and it WILL flex.
It is easy to use, it is reasonably priced, I just don't see any reason what so ever to use anything else when working on a car or truck.
I use ever coat rage, and epoxy with micro ballons almost evenly. Just depending on the aplication. but if I where doing a 'glass car, I would Use laminationg resin and micro ballons solely. againthese are opinons....
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