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Discussion Starter #41
I don't know how tight your budget is Squint. Eckler's is now selling the complete floor pan assembly from toe boards to rear axle and including inner rockers and all body braces. They came out with it after I started mine but it sure is a money and time saver. I think the whole assembly is around
$900 bucks.

If you remember, I was blessed with the assembly from the axle back. It fit very well and was very nicely stamped.

What you are doing is cool and if you have the time and enjoy the journey, all is good. I just wanted to make sure you were aware of all your options.

John

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Thanks for the info John. I don't remember if this was out when I was working on that floor or not. I kept telling myself I wasn't going to put that kind of money into a $600 body. Meanwhile, I bought two $600 bodies. :ROFLMAO: Live and learn I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
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Thankfully, I bolted up my masters before I welded this thing up. It would have worked great if my brakes and clutch had wi-fi or bluetooth but unfortunately they need hydraulic lines connected. I didn't leave much room for that......

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Second attempt. Should work out a little better.

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Discussion Starter #44
A couple of quick prototypes
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I was originally trying to work around the steering column but ended up redoing the pedal and location for my bracket. I was moving the clutch slave push-rod too far out of plane at the end of the stroke and didn't like the position or travel of the pedals. They are straight on my latest version and the geometry seems to be correct now. I still need to add the pedal stops and brake light switch. Possibly return springs.

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Here is an awful picture of the straight pedal version.
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Discussion Starter #45
That pretty much brings everything current. I bought a 72' C10 this spring and spent my free time replacing the bed floor, and all the usual mechanical things. I was able to use the C10 to get a 350 sbc for $20 bucks which my son and I plan to tear down this weekend. The 350 I have in the car now may be an okay runner but it might not. The machine shop has a 2-3 month wait right now so if I can get that $20 dollar engine checked out yet this fall/winter then I should have plenty of time to order the right size pistons and such for a rebuild before summer 2021.

I had a driveshaft made this summer. The one in the blue car had a GM 3R joint on the Buick slip yoke and I'm not entirely sure what was on the rear. I had a shaft shortened with new 1310 joints on both ends.

After this last 9 months of neglect, my shortlist is:

Finish up the brake/clutch pedal assembly
build/buy gas pedal
plumb brake and clutch masters
trans tunnel
mount the mustang gas tank

I need to sand off a pile of bondo to see how bad the roof corners, quarter panels and tail pan are. I should probably address that before I start trying to put the new wiring harness in but it would be a real motivation booster to hear this thing fire up for the first time.

Looking forward to getting back to this car and I'll update here as I go.
 

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Good stuff.

There is something about making it "yard drive"! I guess that is such a big mile post, not to mention, that is when it comes alive.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Not much picture worthy progress but I have made a little headway and hopefully setting myself up for a productive spring.
The machine shop had expected a 2-3 month wait as engine projects seemed to come out of the woodwork during 2020 quarantine boredom. It ended up being closer to 5 months. I got the call last week that my spot on the wait list came up so I finished tearing down the $20 smallblock I picked up last year. It was ROUGH but I don’t know much and had some hope (that maybe the crank was too far gone and I’d be forced to build a 383 stroker haha). Well the diagnosis came back that at some point it was assembled with the bearings in the wrong spots and a couple ran with no oil hole access. Spun bearings and other damage. The extra machine work required to fix it made it beyond economical in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
I’ve had another 350 mystery engine that I bought 5-6 years ago that I used to build the exhaust, motor mounts, trans mount etc. I decided the economical thing to do would be to pull it out and tear it down. I got it out Sunday for what feels like the 100th time on this project. I actually got it on an engine stand in about 4 hours including removing exhaust, trans, flywheel, pumps, heads etc etc etc. Record time. I had decoded it to be around a 1972 C10 block but had never so much as removed the duct tape from the intake. Turns out it’s a 4-bolt and seems to be in MUCH better shape than the $20 block. I got it to the machine shop today and expect to hear the health report later this week. Seeing as how I expect to have a healthy smallblock in my future, I’ve started negotiating on a Muncie upgrade/replacement for the Vega era Saginaw I’ve had planned for this car. Got a case of the while-I’m-at-its and I’m hoping to pick up a posi for my rear end this week too. Figured I should replace all the seals so what better time to make a swap. We’ll see how many stars align and what deals I can make.
 
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