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Discussion Starter #1
heres the omni acrylic enamel i got i'll take more pics later i just did the roof last night and wetsanded and buffed it this morning this is the first time ive evr painted thanks to all those that helped me ,its torch red
 

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I don't mean to be critical at all, especially to someone willing to do his own work. Also, pictures can be very decieving. However, it looks like there is still a lot of orangepeel in the surface. Perhaps further color sanding and a rebuff would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah i didnt want to sand too much but it does look like it needs some more i just sprayed the front
 

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Thats a fine job for Rookie!
Looks like you sprayed it a little dry
Don't be afraid to put it on a little wetter by holding the gun closer or slowing down.
So what! If you get a little run, you have to wet-sand and buff anyways.
Remember run control is air pressure. If you see by going wetter you get a few runs, up the air pressure 10lbs.
The higher air pressure will kick the flash solvents out faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yeah at first it was coming out dry and the last coat i moved the gun a little closer i guess when i do the back i will move it a little closer i havent had any runs yet so i guess i can take the chance and spray a little wetter
 

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I realize you are anxious to PAINT! :D But, you should stop right now and prep the whole truck. Then shoot the whole truck. You will get a much better job that way. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well i thought i would break it down into 3 sections but I will keep that in mind. Next shoot will be the rest of the truck though. Do you guys recommend wetsanding with 2000 or 1500 i have both and sanded the roof with 2000 and then buffed. I just didnt want to over do it.
 

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Based on your picture I would start with at least 1500, get it flat, and then move to 2000 to take out the sanding marks from the 1500. The key is to get it flat. Use a squeegee of some sort to pull the water off the paint while you are sanding. If there is any orange peel left you will see it right away.

If you sand through before you have it flat then there was to much orange peel to start with.

Keep in mind this is for a good quality flat looking mirror type shine. If you are OK with some orange peel then take it down as far as you can, then buff.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
once i get it smooth will it be worth it to shoot a clear over it? or would i have to do it within a certain amount of time? also what could i use
 

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The clear, if you are spraying a basecoat/clearcoat type paint, should go on before any sanding, right after the basecoat. Then you would go through the same color sanding steps on the clear rather than on the basecoat.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yes i know that but im using single stage
 

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leastbay said:
once i get it smooth will it be worth it to shoot a clear over it? or would i have to do it within a certain amount of time? also what could i use
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If its in the budget not only good experience (it will spray same as your enamel) But will make job look good.

As long as you activated the enamel you can do it anytime from the next day on.
Wet-sand with 600-1500 your choice, wash with wax and grease remover and shoot.
You can use any urethane or Polyurethane type clear and any brand at this point.
If the paint was not activated the only thing you can use is an enamel clear with no activator and i don't know that even exists today.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yes i used a hardener and a reducer whats the number for the omni clear? whats better polyurethane or urethane? how much is it?
 

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i just did the roof last night and wetsanded and buffed it this morning this is the first time ive evr painted thanks to all those that helped me ,its torch red
For a single stage acrylic enamel I would wait for awhile to buff it out. From evening until the next day, the paint is way too green yet. Green, meaning that it is not cured enough. I've seen single stage sanded and buffed to the point where it is show finish. What will happen if you buff too soon is that you will embed compound into the paint and never get the high gloss that you are after.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
more pics

heres after i just started buffing
 

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Discussion Starter #16
another

another
 

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I like 3m Perfect-it products. I use the same ones for A/E that I use on Clear coat. I start with the rubbing compound with a wool pad,then switch to the 3M Foam Pad Polishing Glaze with a foam pad. I let my A/E jobs dry for several days before buffing.
 
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