You're more than likely getting oils from your hands on the parts. fish eyes will be caused by contaminants on the parts you're painting. Buy some paint prep, tack cloths, and keep your fingers off the parts once they're cleaned. Use gloves, if needed.
Those interior trim pieces have probably been treated at some point with Armor All (silicone). You will have to do a superb job of cleaning them, first with a thorough scrubbing with Dawn dish soap several times. Then several wipe downs with a good grade wax & grease remover, then hope you got it all off.
The second I read "Interior" parts, that is all I needed to see, Vince said it all. I have washed the ever loving hell out of interior parts with every friggin thing I could come up with and still had fisheye problems. Those vinyl "Treatments" like Armor All are the worst thing to ever be invented in a painters eyes.
If it is metal interior parts sand and clean and prime , If it is plastic or other i clean with something like dawn dish washing liquid and then wipe down with rubbing alcohol and do not touch with the fingers, Then i hang the parts up to be painted.JMO. This method has always worked for me if it's not clean it wont work IMO......Cole
What I do with pieces that give me problems like that is the following.
1. Wipe down the part with wax/grease remover, let it sit on the part for 5min.
2. Wipe the part with a clean towel leaving a very little residue.
3. Wipe the part a 3rd time with a towel soaked in acetone.
I find that the wax/grease remover can bring the contaminates to the top but is slow evaporating. When you don't get all the residue off and leave it to evaporate, it can give whatever oils to sink back into the surface of the part. The acetone seems to almost instantly evaporate the left over oils and remover. Also, wear gloves to protect yourself and also protect the part from contaminates.
This is just one little part of paint prep that might help you out. There's a lot
to it, and there are experts on here who have forgotten more then I will ever know,
but I showed an old bodyman this and he says it really helped him out. This is my
little segment to the ballgame.
I worked in a nuclear power plant for quite a few years, and this is how it works.
Contamination can't be detected by the human eye, that's why they have meters to
Take the dust on top of your television, if you wipe it you will see some dirt on
the rag, well in a power plant you have a few places that have contamination, maybe
on top of a pipe or valve that has a small leak, you might not even see it but, if
you wipe that little bit of dust off from it and check it with a meter you might
find contamination, which is radiation in a unwanted area, something like that.
These areas are in a controlled area that the general public cannot get into, and
the power plant monitors and cleans them up when they show up.
When you clean something contaminated you "decon" it, now I'm getting to the point
if you're still with me.
When you clean, let's say a surface two feet long by a foot tall, you can sometimes
scrub it several times until it's squeaky clean, then take a clean rag and take one
wipe down the side, put a meter on it and you still might show contamination.
So you're looking at this and it's spotless. Yet the meter shows its still got
something on it.
If you wipe one time then turn the rag over to a clean part of it and wipe one time
the other way, you might have to do this a couple of times, but experience at wiping
one way, rather then using the same part of the rag to go the other direction is what
works to get rid of contamination you can't see.
So, put a little acryliclean on your fender, take a clean rag and wipe once down the
side, turn the rag over so its clean and wipe again, don't go back and forth without
turning the rag over.
If this process will clean stuff you can't see with the human eye, then it's a pretty
sure bet you have it clean.
Also you don't have to put a lot of pressure on the surface when you wipe it.
Here's a tip on cleaning cast iron parts on your chassis using acryliclean.
Spray the part until its moist looking, then take the air hose and blow from one
end to the other, like rinsing a wall, one end to the other, not back and forth,
usually at least a couple of times.
I use napa 7222 primer and napa 7250 iron block/cast. Just spray them lightly and
that way the cast iron will look like cast iron instead of the woodwork in an
apartment I used to rent that had twelve coats of paint on the woodwork.
Number 9 wire at a building supply makes excellent hangers for your detail work.
When painting hard to get at areas like inside frame rails, spring pockets, use
a siphon type gun like the old standard binks #7, otherwise the hvlp cup will get
in the way, I have a bright flash light in one hand when I spray those hidden areas.
I was a little long winded on the radiation/contamination, but anybody who ever tried
to explain it usually wound up writing several volumes on it.
Waterborne wax and grease remover will not remove silicone contamination. This product works fine for protene based contaminates, hand prints, body oils, etc. Removing silicone requires a solvent type wax and grease remover available from your favorite automotive paint store. Don't ask me how I know this.
Get that paint off first. The problem is from sillycone lots and lots of it.use the dawn,then the wax& grease remover with a scotch brite pad.test spray and if if still does it repeat as many times as needed that stuff can be a mother to get off.Use an adheasion promoter before painting(like bulldog) but a paint designed for interior is also what you need.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.