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I am new to body work and I am wondering if any one as an opinion on flexible sanding blocks? I am working on a 41 Ford truck with lots of contours and I don't think I want to use a hard block sander, I found in the Eastwood catalog two flexible sanders (pg.42), an adjustable flexible sander and a flexible board sander. The adjustable one may better due the range of paper 80 grit to 2000 grit (body filler to color sanding) any ideas?
 

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No need to get fancy and order out. Just go to your local paint shop and get a few of the black closed cell foam rubber pads made by 3M($0.99each). They are what you need and they double for a squeegy too.

HK
 

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ya hes right or ....ebay...lol u can find good deals there on auto body tools & supplies, i hate eastwood prices are OUTRAGEOUS, gun that i got for 19.99 they sell for $50 what a ripoff
 

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Those 3M foam pads work real good they solved a lot of problems for me. Eastwood has some realy neat stuff but mitmaks is right they are a mite pricy.I can almost always find the same things {or very close to it} at local paint stores or auto parts for less money. however I must add that I have been pleased with the few items that I have ordered.
 

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GM Muscle
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I have to agree on the dura-block. I bought a set yesterday and they are the BEST I have used. I have many 3M pads soft and hard but they really dont work that great for blocking guidecoat.

I think the dura block site would be better served to add better photographs to the site. Some are really hard to tell. Dont click on the large kit for a picture :)

Also be nice if they had a block with a large radius on just one side for sanding up to fender lips.

Rich
 

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I have to agree I have the 2 long dura blocks and I love um, you just have to be careful that the ends don’t dig in and leave your old paper on it when not in use so dust dont get on the paper side, it really takes a different touch to get used to but once you do there great for those curves.

Rick.
 

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Oops

DURA-BLOCK said:
Edited by [email protected]

Sorry to do this to your thread Durablock but your advertising posts violate our strict no advertising policy on the forums. You are free to put ads in the classifieds section. Please read the 'New Member' posts at the head of each forum.
Sorry, New to this,, ill remember this from now on.
 

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Adjustable Flex sanders :thumbup:
IMO much better then the durablock...Eric
 

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KING OF BONDO
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I have the durablocks and have been pleased with them, however that does not mean there is not better or just as good out there
 

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Yesterday I used the two long foam Durablock's to block my fiberglass deck lid. I had two heavy coats of polyester primer on it and wanted to block it getting ready to apply some 2K primer. I cannot imagine an easier blocking system than the Durablock. I was also using the 3M guide coat system and it worked great also. The hard foam blocks conformed perfectly to the curvature of the deck lid allowing full sweeps from one corner to the other and from top to bottom., great product IMO.

Vince
 

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I am the Antirice
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Yeah, the dura-block stuff is great. Got a set a few months back. When the paint supply guy came to the shop on his bi-weekly schedule, we were shown a set. My uncle nabbed the whole box of them up for like 50 bucks, all the blocks come in handy, especially the 1" tube block, and the 11 and 18 inch blocks. They are really nice to work with, it's all i've been using to block out the chevelle with, and it's been working out really nicely.
 

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Flexible sanding tools Flexicat tools

Chapo1 said:
I am new to body work and I am wondering if any one as an opinion on flexible sanding blocks? I am working on a 41 Ford truck with lots of contours and I don't think I want to use a hard block sander, I found in the Eastwood catalog two flexible sanders (pg.42), an adjustable flexible sander and a flexible board sander. The adjustable one may better due the range of paper 80 grit to 2000 grit (body filler to color sanding) any ideas?
Hi, try to flexible sanding tools from www.flexicat-tools.com
 

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"I am new to body work and I am wondering if any one as an opinion on flexible sanding blocks? "

I think you will find that you will use different hardness blocks for each step of your work from walnut to soft foam sanding pads. Wooden blocks can be made to any size or contour. Check your local paint store for different hardness blocks OR an upholstery shop for foam rubber scraps.

"Hi, try to flexible sanding tools from www.flexicat-tools.com"

A new sanding 'shoe' for a long-board air sander will do the same thing cheaper and it's available at the paint store.

1) Do NOT sand down too far with each grit, you need to remove the heavier sand scratches with the finer grits.

2) use the softer pads with finer grit paper.

Have fun with it
 

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oldBodyman said:
"I am new to body work and I am wondering if any one as an opinion on flexible sanding blocks? "

I think you will find that you will use different hardness blocks for each step of your work from walnut to soft foam sanding pads. Wooden blocks can be made to any size or contour. Check your local paint store for different hardness blocks OR an upholstery shop for foam rubber scraps.

"Hi, try to flexible sanding tools from www.flexicat-tools.com"

A new sanding 'shoe' for a long-board air sander will do the same thing cheaper and it's available at the paint store.

1) Do NOT sand down too far with each grit, you need to remove the heavier sand scratches with the finer grits.

2) use the softer pads with finer grit paper.

Have fun with it
A long board air sander is good option but it seems to me that
www.flexicat-tools.com has much longer tools especially for two people.

Do you thing it is possilbe to get any 70" long board?
 

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"A long board air sander is good option but it seems to me that
www.flexicat-tools.com has much longer tools especially for two people.

Do you thing it is possilbe to get any 70" long board?"

You can check out a marine supply shop for the larger sizes, 3M does make much larger sizes.

for 70" you could laminate 2,3,4 layers of 1/8" particle board and fit handles as you need.

Even on large boats the curves keep changing, 70" would be completely impractical for finish work. Much easier to make matching blocks for each area from hard Styrofoam foundation insulation boards from a building supply store.
 

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Colorsanding painter
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A piece of thick conveyor belt makes a handy sanding block and can be cut to most any dimension..cheap too, usually from the scraps in a belt shop.
 

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I have had a set of AFS Blocks for about 4 ior 5 Years now, and have actually wore our one set and replaced them-I like the Stainless Rods that can be taken out for more flexibility, the Stainless base plates that actually work, and I have to say that the owner of AFS is also a Body Shop kinda guy, and is always open to suggestions and ways to better his product-recently, I needed a new 6" block, and he sent me three when I only ordered one-one of them had Leather on it (for holding the PSA Block paper), and he asked me to let him know how it worked-I like it the best-I bought a set for my Brother-in-Law who is restoring a '67 Mustang, and he loves his set-he had previously worked and worked on the bottom of his front Fender and couldn't get it straight, he had it straight within 15 minutes after he got his set. I like that every time I order something from AFS he sends a "surprise"-I love the guy.

I haven't yet found a panel that I can't get flat with them, and they are comfortable for these old, tired hands-expensive? Yeah, a little, but they work- :thumbup:

http://www.adjustflexsand.com/products.html
 

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New To Bodywork

Reply for 'New in Body Work': Soft Foam - Hard Foam - Flexiable tools might be handy for smoothing or getting into difficult areas; but that's it! I am a retired twenty year veteran of auto body finishing and found that in order to achieve flat straight and true reflections in the paint finish as well as hold to the original contour of the panels, is to use a long hard board especially in the initial leveling of the body fillers and in final stages of sanding out the sand scratches in the primers surfaces. Starting with a air board and moving onto a long hard board in a cross-hatch method this is the best way to level and stay with the original contours of the panels (even Fords from the forties). It takes a little time to learn the technique but worth it in the end. Don't worry - stop sanding when you see metal and it's also a good idea to use a guide coat so you can see lows that you can't see or feel.
 
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