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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all.
I am an old school builder. I am now building a resto mod, I have my donor and my project. Project car: 56 Chrysler Windsor, drivetrain donor:08 Ford with a 5.4.
Now here's the interesting question(s).
How to make the ATS (anti theft) happy with the swap?
How to get it all wired up so it will run properly. ( Donor has complete wiring)

I know the ATS can be a royal pain from what I understand and then my cluster is all original 56. So, gauge input is another issue. Electrical advice to get this thing to play nice in my 56 is greatly appreciated. I have a pin out chart for the PCM, but it looks like everything is routed and rerouted into the engine harness.

Thank you in advance.
 

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Dump that POS 5.4
They are problematic and a PITA to work on.
If I was doing this build I would source a late model hemi .Get a standalone EFI like a holley sniper or terminator
Gauges can still use the factory senders or something similar can be sourced.
Stand alone EFI will be much less complicted all around
 

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Selling the donor should be easy . There are lots of demand for those for F 150s
 

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Yeah, I would not put that 5.4L in anything.. Cam phaser issues, expensive fix, and the lockout kits tame the engine because it cannot run like it should. The cheapest fix is to dump a used engine into the truck.

I understand the appeal, because the big wide modular blocks can look just like a Hemi. The 3v engine as it would be in a 2008 model year is a POS. The earlier 2v engines and the V10's would spit spark plugs, but they were ok.. 100k miles it seems is when those 3vs start to sound like diesels from the cam phasers slapping. They will run like that for a long while, but eventually leave you stranded
 

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Oh boy. Your going to hate Ford electronic intrigration.

Here is how to run just the 4.6/5.4 engine standalone.

This still requires you to use the old ecm to run the automatic transmission and the gauges. It is how Ford runs the wiring. Back to the mid 90's they were running the sensors through the gauge cluster then to the ecm to save on wiring. You would think by 08 they would have learned this was a horrible idea which can create issues with loose connections and lost ecm inputs.

I highly recommend a manual transmission if you want to run a 5.4. Oh and using better coils with a megasquirt computer letting you rev the 5.4 to its full potential.

That all being said a 5.3 LS is much much easier to swap in (electronically) and can be run stand alone with a fraction of the requirements of a 5.4.

If you want to keep it Chrysler then a slant 6 with a supercharger has been done several times at this point. Not only does it look and sound cool as heck requiring minimal electronics. But the power it produces is on par with what a 5.4 can put out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, I would not put that 5.4L in anything.. Cam phaser issues, expensive fix, and the lockout kits tame the engine because it cannot run like it should. The cheapest fix is to dump a used engine into the truck.

I understand the appeal, because the big wide modular blocks can look just like a Hemi. The 3v engine as it would be in a 2008 model year is a POS. The earlier 2v engines and the V10's would spit spark plugs, but they were ok.. 100k miles it seems is when those 3vs start to sound like diesels from the cam phasers slapping. They will run like that for a long while, but eventually leave you stranded
Ty....you are the only one that actually said anything truly useful. I know the engine I am dealing with, and it has had the 4v heads put on with true times injection large bore throttle body and many other tricks. A 4v mustang comp was installed when the heads were swapped. This engine has and does run beautifully. The frame structure suffered corrosion and stress fractures. The wiring especially dealing with the ATS IS the issue trying to figure out bypass tricks for it first. Also be a shame to lose the 6spd auto behind it....but I have considered a manual trans. FYI...the plugs aren't a problem as long as you drop in the thread sleeves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ty....you are the only one that actually said anything truly useful. I know the engine I am dealing with, and it has had the 4v heads put on with true times injection large bore throttle body and many other tricks. A 4v mustang comp was installed when the heads were swapped. This engine has and does run beautifully. The frame structure suffered corrosion and stress fractures. The wiring especially dealing with the ATS IS the issue trying to figure out bypass tricks for it first. Also be a shame to lose the 6spd auto behind it....but I have considered a manual trans. FYI...the plugs aren't a problem as long as you drop in the thread sleeves.
Sorry auto correct junk..." True tuned injection"
 

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Holley Terminator x would be the easiest as they make kits to run it.... BTW if this is out of a truck, it's not a 6spd in a 2008. I think they became available in 2009 I think. It would be a 4R70W most likely, unless you have done some swapping or something
 

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The anti theft/ignition key interface is in the column. Pull the covering off and you will find a "ring" around the switch area. That thing picks up the signal from the key. It is feed from a little box that is against the fire wall (location varies) which in turn talks the the engine control. Just tape the ring and the key together, install the entire harness and you will have the anti theft issue covered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Holley Terminator x would be the easiest as they make kits to run it.... BTW if this is out of a truck, it's not a 6spd in a 2008. I think they became available in 2009 I think. It would be a 4R70W most likely, unless you have done some swapping or something
No it's not from a truck....it is from a mustang. Matt ty for the feed back. I will look into the Holley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The anti theft/ignition key interface is in the column. Pull the covering off and you will find a "ring" around the switch area. That thing picks up the signal from the key. It is feed from a little box that is against the fire wall (location varies) which in turn talks the the engine control. Just tape the ring and the key together, install the entire harness and you will have the anti theft issue covered.
BlueBlood ty. That's something I have considered. But I would like to do away with the PATS all together. I have heard about some "comp techs" are able to go into the PCM and do a "PATS delete". Have you heard anything about that? I am still researching it.
 

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I have not. I had an Explorer that the drive train was to be used else where so I started doing the research. Ended up a fellow wanted the car (60 2dr wagon) more then I did so I stopped looking around. I did find out that the computer will not put grounds on the injectors if PATS is not active. (Spray a little gas into the throttle body and the engine runs up just fine.) He used the entire Explorer electrical system in the wagon and was happy. I expect there are folks out there that can get around the PATS, just don't know who.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have not. I had an Explorer that the drive train was to be used else where so I started doing the research. Ended up a fellow wanted the car (60 2dr wagon) more then I did so I stopped looking around. I did find out that the computer will not put grounds on the injectors if PATS is not active. (Spray a little gas into the throttle body and the engine runs up just fine.) He used the entire Explorer electrical system in the wagon and was happy. I expect there are folks out there that can get around the PATS, just don't know who.
BlueBlood , I just found a company that does the PATS delete mod. Garret Tuning does the program mods. It costs around 130.00 to have it done. When I get it done I will post how it turns out. Thank you for the injector ground advice.
 

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You have vintage that I assume the state does not care what you do to it. So there are a lot of electrical things that are problematic, and you don't want anyway, so you can get rid of them.

If the trans is a 4R70W or the close ratio version AODE, the fix is simple. I have a 65 Mustang with a 427W backed by an AODE with a 3 disk billet converter. It is controlled by a Baumman controller. Four profiles, switchable on-the-fly. It is like having four transmissions: street/highway/strip/of-road/////.

And BTW is it running FiTech rail injection with 80# coyote injectors.

I have about 30K miles on it. All works very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You have vintage that I assume the state does not care what you do to it. So there are a lot of electrical things that are problematic, and you don't want anyway, so you can get rid of them.

If the trans is a 4R70W or the close ratio version AODE, the fix is simple. I have a 65 Mustang with a 427W backed by an AODE with a 3 disk billet converter. It is controlled by a Baumman controller. Four profiles, switchable on-the-fly. It is like having four transmissions: street/highway/strip/of-road/////.

And BTW is it running FiTech rail injection with 80# coyote injectors.

I have about 30K miles on it. All works very well.
Yes it does haveFiTech. There's alot of the excess comp crap I would love to...do away with. The state doesn't give a crap how I set it up since it is pre everything.
 
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