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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m going to start boxing my s10 frame soon. I plan on removing this crossmember (circled). Which I think is only for the spare tire. I’m just going to weld square tubing in place of that. Just want any pointers and tips and advice to make sure I do this right.
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Weld a temporary brace nearby so the thing will hold its shape while the new is installed.
Measure and cut the new piece BEFORE cutting out the old one. Sometimes things move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I’m guessing it doesn’t need to be in the same exact spot? Because that’s what I was going to try to do.
 

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Same spot depends on what you wanna do in the overall design but I simply meant that when fabbing stuff, residual tension may be present and therfor things may move when you cut them out so try to have the new piece fitted to the best you can before cutting it out because if you cut it out first, and things move around, ya got to get creative pulling things back in place. A brace is a good idea because it helps hold things in place while you doing the fitting.
 

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That brace and the one in front of it are for the bed, spare tire, leaf springs, and shocks. See how the shackles are right below it? That piece is just as important as your engine crossmember.



Now if you are not placing stuff the bed or using the s10 frame for a car build then I would :

Measure in a X to see if your starting square.

Pull the top of the shocks and bolt in some angle iron.

Bolt the bumper/hitch back on. Or insert a piece of angle on top of the frame where the 5/8 bolts are right at the end.

Then to keep the frame from twisting I would bolt 2 more braces at the bottom of the frame.

Measure once again tightening everything.

Now I would cut it into 3 pieces. Removing the middle then grinding down the rivets to remove the outers.

Then weld in your brace making sure it attaches to the top and sides like the old one did.

Remove your angle iron and check your measurments.

If your doing this for weight savings. Know for how important this is if you go lighter you really risk twisting things.

If you want to lighten it then you can trim the back and drill holes in the top. But you must dimple these holes to maintain strength and frankly the weight your cutting out is maybe a pound.
As far as boxing it is generally not needed with a s10.

Here is a good video on s10 stock suspension.
Skip to 16 minutes to see it perform. Skip to 18 to to watch thr old man talk about the unboxed rear.
This thing hooks better then it should for the power he is running and frame wise as far as I know it is stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I was planning on welding in the square tube crossmember after I boxed in that area. So wouldn’t that still mean its attached securely enough without having to attach it exactly the old one I’m going to cut out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So here’s a better picture of that brace. I honestly thought it was just for the spare tire. But I do have a hitch bolted to the back. Not sure if it matters.
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Ok this little angle here does more then it look like it does.
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Look at the brace and you will see it angles down right where this angles up. This creates a triangle.

I wrote a book. But I will just leave this short in saying your frame is plenty strong as need be for a leaf spring setup. Add some caltrax, good shocks, locking diff, and then tune the thing. Frame wise once your straight you will be just fine.
 

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Here is how I did the frame on my extended cab frame. I used a gas tank from a 2 door/2 wheel drive S10 Blazer. Depending on the year, they take different factory fuel pumps. I used a later model that takes the higher pressure factory pump. It has a nice shape and gets the tank out of the way for the 4 link suspension. Moving the crossmember is not a big deal but you have to make sure you put it where it doesn't interfere with suspension or driveline movement. If you are going to this much trouble I would use the 4 bar rather than Cal Tracs. The brace at the rear was temporary. Remove one brace at a time and tack the other one in place. The brand new Spectrum tank was about $100/125 online. Then you need the straps to hold it which were maybe $40/50. The multiple shock mounts allow me to adjust ride height somewhat if I change tire sizes.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Being that I have a hitch bolted to the backed the frame, is that l enough to not need any more additional bracing while I cut out the spare tire crossmember and box in that area and weld in a square tube crossmember?
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It might be, but if your frame has any unseen stress its possible that it could maintain the correct width but allow the frame to twist or to move sideways. Usually best to add new xmemebr before removing the old one if that is possible. If not I would tack weld a couple of crossbraces (x pattern) temporarily before removing the old brace. You just never know whether they will try to move....or not.
 
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