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56 chev on 79 chassis, 62 LeSabre
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
update: stuck my truck into a ditch. bent both frame rails up i think.

going to take it to a frame shop but have a friend, (don't we all), who thinks i oughta take it ONLY to a place who has a laser set up.
well, i live in Po-Dunk, and nobody has one. i have a place about a mile away that another friend recommended, but should i go there or find a trailer and tow my truck to Everett (40 miles), or Seattle (70 miles).

my motor mounts are about an inch closer together than they used to be so i can't mount my engine in the frame unless i press them apart, but then i will probably have a bigger mess than i have now.
 

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H'mmm

This could be a real learning experience..out here in the woods it is do it yourself or it does not happen,,:smash:

Oh well..get yourself a couple of 20 ton jacks and some railroad iron and make a frame bench and you can pull the rails straight..might take removing the cross member so things can be loosened up and allow the rails to be bent back..

If all else fails did you not really want to clip the front end on the truck anyway..:D

Strike some reference lines on the garage floor so you know when to quit bending..Work to a plus/minus of 30/1000 of an inch and it should drive fine when done..that is about !/32nd of an inch..

A porta power is a good thing to have when doing this as well..as you may need to pull as well as push to get it back straight again..

Good luck on the frame shop deal..these days if a frame is bent the insurance just totals the car and it is all over..:spank:

Good luck..
 
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Re: H'mmm

OneMoreTime said:
Good luck on the frame shop deal..these days if a frame is bent the insurance just totals the car and it is all over..:spank:

Good luck..
I don't know where you are that that happens. Now days, there are very few vehicles that sustained body damage, other than minor dings, that don't have some kind of structural damage. Many years ago, totaling a vehicle because of frame damage was the norm. With the frame machines and measuring systems, it takes more than that. A ful frame vehicle, such as a SUV, that is relatively new, may even have the frame replaced.

If you can locate one, a shop with a lazer measuring system, would be best, but that is not absolutely necessary. It is not necessary to find a frame shop. Locate a body shop with a frame machine. Most any body shop that does a large volume of insurance work, should have one.
 

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Here's the poor mans' way we used to use in the 60s for the body shop I worked in. Car/truck is stripped of front sheet metal, we had 4 oak trees set somewhat in a square, also used a bulldozer a few times. Anything that will anchor and pull from that is solid. Front frame bent, anchor the opposite rear, LARGE comealong and stout chain in the front on the frame horn. Most times you can see a kink in the frame, this is where you heat. As I remember, most tweaks will be right in front of the crossmember or the cowl. Heat and pull. if you can find another frame to reference measurements, all the better. It probably would be highly frowned upon these days, we actually did quite well in most cases with this method. Also heard factory specs call for 1/4 inch tolernace of square. Good luck, Bull, you're due . Dan
 
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