[joeford]

I've seen a variety of products available for separating the frame from the body.....Fabric, rubber, cork are the ones that come to mind....Has anyone out there had good or bad experiences with any particular type or brand of webing? Good experience would be one that eliminates the squeaks and has a long life and a bad experience would be one that was ineffective at dealing with the squeaks.

Also, what is the prefered method of installing on the frame? glue?

 

[Deuce]

On 1934 Fords and earlier ... I like to use the fabric type ... looks like a old Army belt ... Lobeck sells it and it has a pull off tape on it ... so it will stay where you put it ... after you remove the tape. On 1940 Fords ... they came with a rubber type mount and Bob Drake makes them in reproduction ... and I have used those ...

 

[DrChop]

Why buy a kit?

Tractor Supply has farm combine rubber belting material in rolls that works great for this application. :thumbup: :thumbup:

Doc

 

[dinger]

My buddy uses the stuff Orchard sells for floor squeegee (sp?)replacement, he swears by it. Dan

 

[Irelands child]

On 1934 Fords and earlier ... I like to use the fabric type ... looks like a old Army belt ... Lobeck sells it and it has a pull off tape on it ... so it will stay where you put it ... after you remove the tape. On 1940 Fords ... they came with a rubber type mount and Bob Drake makes them in reproduction ... and I have used those ...

My only complaint with the self adhesive stuff is the fact that it does interfere (the stickum backing paper, in particular) with the many times it you have to put it on and take it off to punch body and/or bracket holes - it slides and ripples. I'm using the webbing without the self stick tape, have fitted it up now will put it back on with 2 sided tape. For initial fitting, I just used masking tape to hold it in place.

Most places like Lobecks or Yogi's have the correct ANTI SQUEAK webbing.

Dave

 

[Deuce]

My only complaint with the self adhesive stuff is the fact that it does interfere (the stickum backing paper, in particular) with the many times it you have to put it on and take it off to punch body and/or bracket holes - it slides and ripples.

Dave

I punch the hole in the webbing ... and then put a bolt with a BIG washer in that location and then go to the next hole ... but it did take a few cars before I developed that method ...

 

[Irelands child]

I punch the hole in the webbing ... and then put a bolt with a BIG washer in that location and then go to the next hole ... but it did take a few cars before I developed that method ...

Where do you use the punch? while the webbing was on the frame??? The correct anti-squeak webbing is [email protected]#%h to make clean holes even with good sharp punch. I mark mine, slide the webbing off to a piece of 3/4" phenolic, line up my punch the whang it (hard) with a 2# hammer to cut it clean. I agree, bolt it down with a bolt and fender washer as you go - best front to back - mine is a '31 A, with webbing the whole length of the frame - the front fenders bolt to the top of the frame. A deuce and later is only under the body, I believe.

Dave

 

[35WINDOW]

I purchased a kit form Dennis Carpenter for my '35 Coupe (is your's a '36?) and it has all of the pieces to mount the Body in it (don't know if it's anti-squeak though)-

 

[hot34coupe]

I've seen a variety of products available for separating the frame from the body.....Fabric, rubber, cork are the ones that come to mind....Has anyone out there had good or bad experiences with any particular type or brand of webing? Good experience would be one that eliminates the squeaks and has a long life and a bad experience would be one that was ineffective at dealing with the squeaks.

Also, what is the prefered method of installing on the frame? glue?

Hey guys,
I would like to interject something here. When setting my 34 body on the frame we found that the door alignment of the body was not near where it should be. We spent hours shimming here and shimming there to get the door alignment just right before we welded in braces to chop the top. My car had been channeled at one time and was on another 34' frame. Long story short is that I have shims anywhere from 1/4 in. to 7/8 in. alone the frame rails sandwiched between the body and frame.Now my door clearances are good and open and close properly. I made 1" X 3" blocks of aluminum each one the proper thickness for shims. SO, MAKE SURE EVERYTHING LINES UP! I didn't use the frame welting at all.
Have a great day! Kyle- hot34coupe

 

[Nightfire]

Hockey pucks. $1 a piece. Comes out to about $4 for all 4 body mounts


Mike

 

[Irelands child]

,
I made 1" X 3" blocks of aluminum each one the proper thickness for shims. SO, MAKE SURE EVERYTHING LINES UP! I didn't use the frame welting at all.
Have a great day! Kyle- hot34coupe

Some day when you have nothing else to do, you might want to find some thin webbing for squeak reduction and put on both sides of the blocks. And another thing - aluminum thru bolted to steel, with a bit of (salty?) road splash make a dandy battery to create rust holes in frames and body pans exactly the size of the shim. ain:

Dave

 

[hot34coupe]

Body Mounts

Hockey pucks. $1 a piece. Comes out to about $4 for all 4 body mounts


Mike

You only have 4 body mounts? I have 4 on each side- 8 total.
ALso, I will not drive my hot rod on salty roads. That what I have a truck for. They only salt the roads here in extreme cases of ice here in central TN. If its that bad, I'm staying home
Kyle