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Chevy to the death!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, the only reason why my car didn't pass an inspection (i've been dying to get my baby on the road and ditch my tired rusty 4runner for a long time now) was the wheel cylinders. Got the back ones done (major pain), and parts finally came in for the front ones. I noticed that they do not have the two bolts in the back holding them in, and no rivets. What it looks like, is the top pin/bolt that the C-shape on the shoes rest on (Sorry, not too up-to-date on brake terms :( ), is what holds it in, as the cylinder extends all the way up and behind in between the backing plate (again, sorry if incorrect) and the nut on the pin. What all do I have to do to get that bolt/pin off? Any tips or tricks? Thanks for the help,
Jake E
 

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Hotrodders.com Moderator
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Didnet think it went back that far but some cylinders had a clip arrangement on the back and they were a real pain.
I dont think I have ever attempted to remove the top stud you are referring to for cylinder removal. If you look at teh new cylinders, it should be obvious how they mount
 

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Old(s) Fart
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6,014 Posts
T-bucket23 said:
Didnet think it went back that far but some cylinders had a clip arrangement on the back and they were a real pain.
The clips don't go that far back. Mainly they were used on the 78-88 A/G-body cars.

I dont think I have ever attempted to remove the top stud you are referring to for cylinder removal. If you look at teh new cylinders, it should be obvious how they mount
Yeah, I'd say it's pretty obvious that you need to unscrew that pin:

 

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Hotrodders.com Moderator
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I can honestly say I dont ever REMEMBER doing one of those. Of course latly I can remember much it seems :D
Glad you got it figured out.
 

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WFO
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5,030 Posts
I wonder when the change to using the two, 1/4" bolts to retain the slave started? I'd have bet the farm that my '68 Le Mans had the 2 bolt arrangement, but it's been a long time ago since I did those brakes, and I don't recall doing any others (except changing the entire front end to disc from drums).
 

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Chevy to the death!
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104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As far as I've ever noticed the rears were always held in by the two bolt setup, but he front, you had to take off the 15/16" pin at the top to the backing plate, and the cyl popped right out. Had to take off the brake line at the frame so the flex hose could come through the backing plate so I could stick it in a bench vise and use some leverage to get off the brake hose (not enough room in behind while attached, and stuck on VERY good). Next up:THM350 swap and toss the powerglide :)
 

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Chevy to the death!
Joined
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104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm still around boys, had a lot of things going on so I've kindve been in a cave. 63, the "pin" that held the return spring, I did have to unscrew. I bought a deep 15/16" socket, 1/2" drive, heater her up with a torch, liberally used wd40, and she came right out. Drum brakes in the front have since been replaced by wildwood 4 piston disks. Good luck, let me know if you need anymore help
 
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