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It really depends on your setup. If every component from the tank to the intake manifold is ethanol tolerant... and you drive enough to use the fuel within 90 days, then you could use ethanol blended gas. But if you don't know, or only rarely drive the car I would only buy non-oxy/non-ethanol.
I would also definitely NOT store the car over winter with "corn piss" even if everything is ethanol tolerant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It really depends on your setup. If every component from the tank to the intake manifold is ethanol tolerant... and you drive enough to use the fuel within 90 days, then you could use ethanol blended gas. But if you don't know, or only rarely drive the car I would only buy non-oxy/non-ethanol.
I would also definitely NOT store the car over winter with "corn piss" even if everything is ethanol tolerant.
Thanks. Been using 100 gas since acquiring vehicle last month.
 

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It really depends on your setup. If every component from the tank to the intake manifold is ethanol tolerant... and you drive enough to use the fuel within 90 days, then you could use ethanol blended gas. But if you don't know, or only rarely drive the car I would only buy non-oxy/non-ethanol.
I would also definitely NOT store the car over winter with "corn piss" even if everything is ethanol tolerant.
90 days huh ? Ethanol sits in all my yard tools , my boat tanks & my hotrod for at least, 5 months , usually longer...AFA as stability , we call that " red jelly. crap"&
 

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Have you tried not using anything ?
I've used Lucas for many years and before my step father died in 2015 I made a number of trips from Springfield, Mo to Dayton, Oh and it always added at lest a gallon or two to the gas mileage in the Dakota. The best I got was right at 21 mpg which I don't think is too bad for a 4.7 auto with a lead foot driver.
 

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90 days huh ? Ethanol sits in all my yard tools , my boat tanks & my hotrod for at least, 5 months , usually longer...AFA as stability , we call that " red jelly. crap"&
ethanol induced corrosion...Ethanol attracts water right out the air.
Several carb rebuilds including an expensive difficult one, and I have no confidence in stale ethanol blended gas.
 

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#1 If you are going to use corn squeezings, jet your carb 5% richer. Alcohol needs 6 to 7: 1 mixture to burn correctly. A jet only sees volume of flow. Since your gasoline(which requires 12.6 to 14: 1 ratio to burn) is diluted by 10% with a mixture that needs twice as much, you are 5% lean.
#2 I have purchased 10% ethanol gas, that when pouring 25cc or so on the concrete floor, it wouldn't burn when lit with a torch. Same amount of real gas goes WHOOF and scares the hell out of you. This fuel came right out of a pump into an empty can and would not start a GX210 Honda engine.
#3 I always store my engines with PURE GAS, no Stabil or additives. Fires right up in spring, runs perfect.
#4 Ethanol is very hard on gaskets and rubber diaphragms and hoses, in a two stroke engine, it will dry out the pumper diaphragm and make it curl up like a dry leaf, making it worthless.

If you want to find real gas, go to pure-gas.org for a listing by state of stations that sell it. It is more expensive the ethanol, but close to same and comparable octane .


https://www.pure-gas.org
 
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