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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to find a good place to mount fuse panel On my 51 Austin.So far the trunk seems to be the best place since the battery will be in there.And I don't have any room behind the dash.All switches will be in the console,im open to any ideas you might have.
 

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console ?

under the console with a cover panel would make it easier to check out everything, and when you are at a carshow-swap meet and buy something no worry about those newly aquired gems shorting out something.
 

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fuse panel

if the trunk is good for u then do it.. use the KISS program and make it easy to get to.. but to further my point, before u start wiring, and it seems u will be doing your own custom wiring and not use painfull wiring.... yes i said painfull.. draw up a dia of what u need, color code, wire size, etc.
 

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If you have no room behind the dash..... do you have room on the firewall? You might think above having a local welding shop, fab up an alum box with a removable lid that you could tuck the fuse box into etc..... The issue I see with the trunk, is all the wire your going to have to route into the cabin/dash area to service all your system etc.... that is a bunch of wires and would be prone to rubbing/chafeing etc.

A box that would bolt to the firewall with the wires feeding from the back side into the cabin would elimate that issue. The lid could be weatherproofed and attach with allen head machine screws and would look trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The reason I am thinking in the trunk is becouse the fire wall had to be moved back 20".Which means Dr and Pass. seats had to move back the same amount.So that puts the back of the console real close to the trunk.
The only thing in the dash will be water temp, oil pres. volt and fuel gauges.No speedo becouse doug nash 4+1 has no speedo provisions.The tach will be mounted up on the cage.So most of the wiring except for engine and front lights will at the back half of the caralong with the battery.
 

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I like the aluminum box idea, another thing to consider might be voltage drop over long distances, Another might be steering column turn-signal swx compatibility..or having to extend harness if the fuse-box is pre-wired for a GM swx..not a big deal really, just time. A central location under the dash is probably best. Don't wrap it up all nice in split-loom until your sure you have the squirrllls chased out of it..Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The aluminum box does sound like a good option.But if the fuse panel is on the fire wall and all the switchs are in the console which is towards the rear of car. Won't that mean alot more wires going back to console and then forward to the engine and front lights.Where if the fuse panel was towards the rear they would only go forward.Maybe I am not thinking of this the right way,this is only my 2nd complete rewire.
 

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How big is the console you are planning? That might be a good location. Wires to the back of the car would go out the back of the console, wires to the front, engine and dash would go out the front. The main battery cables from the trunk to the starter could stay under the car, with the power to the fuse panel coming up from the starter connection. My panel is under the dash with the power coming from the starter connection. You could put a 'floor' in the console, covering the fuse panel and protecting the wiring. If the console extends to dash up front and back to the panel dividing the passenger compartment from the trunk, it will give you a convenient conduit for routing your wiring.
 

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Also, with the battery in the trunk, run very large cable for both the positive and negative all the way to the starter (pos) and a bellhousing bolt (neg) to reduce the voltage drop from long cables. I used 1/0 welding cable for mine. Run a grounding strap from that bellhousing bolt to your chassis, and a stout ground wire to your fuse panel.
 

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My Austin firewall setback is not quite as much as your Austin, but probably similar issues. I mounted mine on the firewall, but then I built a cover panel that sits off the inner firewall about 1.5"-2" and is easily removeable. I made it from 1/4" plywood, and covered it in black carpet. I have one for each side (driver/pass.) and they not only hide the fuse box, but also all the wiring looms too.
My firewall is set back nearly to the leading edge of the front doors, and the panels end up making it flush with the door opening, but still allow me easy entry and exit to the vehicle.
 

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the problem i see with in the console or the truck is that all your column and dash wires will need to be extended
i saw a good idea for a hinged mounted fuse panel in another forum that might work for your car
hinge on the firewall and a latch to hold the fuse panel under and flush with the bottom of the dash
swung down it gave easy access to the panel, up it was completely out of view
these new fuse panels are small anyway, just an idea to get you thinking of a different mounting method
 

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I don't know about all wiring harnesses, but the dash/column wiring in the one I used from Haywire would have been long enough to reach from a console. Same for the engine and front lighting. Trunk mounting would be a different story. The console would also be a convenient way to route wires forward or back if it's long enough. It might also be a good spot to hide an ignition kill switch or electric fuel pump cutoff switch - just don't tell anybody.
 
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