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you're killin me buck!
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Discussion Starter #1
has anyone used, fusor adhesives?
i have heard "gluing" body parts together is the way to do things these days.
(i know little about body work.)
here is my project.
i have a trunk lid for my cutlass that once had a spoiler, and now has 4 small (smaller than 1/2")
holes i need to fill.
i asked about the best way to do this at a body shop across the street from my place of employment.
they said to glue (metal) patches on the inside of the trunk then fill from the outside.
the local parts place has Fusor adhesives for this job, they gave me a poster listing the different products and applications, as well as oem approvals.
sounds good to me.
ever used it? had any luck with it?
am i going about this all wrong?
thanks!
 

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We use Fusor adhesives and 3M adhesives in the shop where I work. They are both good lines of products and will give good results. You can bond metal to the underside of your decklid and then fill with a fiberglass filler, but if it were me I would weld the holes closed since it will make it a much better repair.
 

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you're killin me buck!
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163 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i was concerened about warpage. i didn't buy the glue kit yet, and the shop i work for has a good mig welder i can use any time.
i'm afraid i'll blow holes through, i tend to weld a bit on the hot side.
i realy need to get into a few different books and read here before i fix my lid.
thanks jwcnj45
any other pointers ?
oh, would you weld from the outter side?
i would think so, but not sure.

[ June 04, 2003: Message edited by: axle bastard ]</p>
 

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AB, if you can get to the inside, by all means weld there. You want to clean both sides to bare metal to keep fumes to a minium. This is thin sheet metal so you want to use .23 wire and a fairly low heat setting. Then just bip the mig and lay a series of spots. If you want, you can just keep biping until it is all filled. If you do this, stop every 3 or 4 bips and let the temp dissipate so you will not get your dreaded warpage.

Trees
 

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If you can get behind the panel you could back it up with a piece of copper pipe hammered flat to cover the hole. Then weld the hole up. The weld will not stick to the copper and the copper will absorb some of the heat, thus reducing warpage in the panel and making the hole easy to fill. I make my copper "spoons" by using either 1/2" or 3/4" copper pipe about 6" or so long and then flatten one end. Bend it into any shape you need to fit the area you need to back up and hold it firmly behind the hole and then weld. The other end of the pipe can get hot so wear a pair of gloves when you do this. This works well and I have used this process many times over the years.
 
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