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The Penny Pincher
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Discussion Starter #1
Is it ok to use galvanized metal as a patch panel where it will be covered
by filler? Will filler adhere to it as well?
If not I can always sand the galv off the side toward the filler. :pimp:
 

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I cant say how well filler will adhere to it, I'm sure one of the gurus here can chime in on that, however if your welding this panel in be careful, galvanized metal gives off some very nasty fumes. I'd recommend staying away from it myself.

Chris
 

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Experienced Amateur
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252 Posts
Why in the heck are you usin galv, jc? It will work OK if u sand/scuff it hard. Personally, I wouldnt use it, but if you do, sand the **** out of it!!! :D
 

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Jim, I've had problems in the past with hot dipped galvinized. It has to be scuffed. I do have a bunch of 5X10 sheets that came out of Chryslers van plant of which they stamp floors with. These are not hotdipped but are galvanized. They use a diff process. It is great for making panels and floor pans. Anyhow they say just to epoxy and fill. Have not had any problems in the last five years or so. Cheers!!
 
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CD.... You got to understand Clark. He is as tight as they come. He probably found a piece from one of his wife's appliances, and wants to use it for a patch. :D

Actually, other than the welding hazards, you have to wonder, since there are many parts that come from the manufacturer that are galvanized, and made to weld to non-galvanized parts. I seem to recall a couple of parts that go on the back corner of a Chevy Avalanche, that were galvanized. Other than grinding off the galvanizing for welding, I didn't do anything different. I don't think the paint shop did either.

Aaron
 

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When i had my body shop which i ran for 11 yrs. a guy gave me a large stack of galvanized metal. I used it for years and patched a lot of cars with it. I live in mn. Land of 10,000 rust holes. I always made sure I ground the edge where I planned to weld and then ground off weld and complete outside of patch before I applied bondo to it that still left galvanized coating on back side of patch even if I couldn't get at it to undercoat it. Seemed to work just fine and I had a lot of cars that still looked good 5 yrs later. Even had a 69 roadrunner that I did for a young guy and I ran into his dad at a party over 10 yrs later. He recognized me and asked me if I remembered the car and I did so he took me out to the garage and pulled off the car cover and said still the same paint you put on it. Still looked really good and that was back in the acrylic enamel days.
 

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Problem Child,Hard Case
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Big problem with galvanized sheet metal is the fact that it's REAL oily from the mill and a good cleaning is necessary to even start. The vinager wipe down just won't get it. Grind off the areas you want to weld and AFTER cleaning with a good solvent grease & wax remover,treat it like ANY piece of metal which means,scratch it before painting.
Or,
Drop it in some muriatic acid for a bit and it will eat the galvanize off and you have a plain piece of steel which WILL flash rust in minuites if not seconds.
We use muratic as "flux" before soldering pans and duct and yeah, it WILL clear your head out. :mwink:
 

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Experienced Amateur
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LMAO adt...youre probably right, and boy is he gonna get it when she sees the door missin off the clothes dryer :D

Bee, I was thinkin along those lines too (I used to do sheet metal work for many years) and youre right about muriatic, itll definitely clear ya sinuses, especially when ya hit it with a soldering iron lol.
 

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1955 2nd series Chevy Pick Up
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282 Posts
I use galvanized for patch panels. I grind off the galv. at the weld area and scuff the rest of it. I haven't had a problem with filler or paint. I use epoxy primer over the patch and the "Z" grip filler which sticks to galv.

BUT... If you feel sick when welding the galv. metal drink some milk to cure (calm) that feeling. But be sure and wear a respirator cause breathing the fumes can cause some serious health problems. Besides you want to live a long time don't ya? :thumbup:
 
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