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Hello, my name is Rafael Maduro I'm from Aruba. Looking for a aproppiate gasket set for a crate engine that is installed in a Boss Hoss chevy 350 cid four main bolts with the following casting numbers 10243880 ZZ4 alum cyl heads any recomendations will be highly appreciated my email you can return any good positive answer. Best regards.
 

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Hi Rafmad , welcome to Hotrodders. You posted to another HR member's olde thread. I moved your question to a new thread. Answers will be posted here , likely they will not be emailed . Thanks
 

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Looks like your zz4 is the one piece rear main seal engine and if you get a regular non zz4 kit then your intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets might not be the right ones but you can buy a set of gaskets separate from a complete kit. I just buy the gaskets separate for my build and the cost is not much different. Here is a complete kit for a zz4

 

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Aruba? Now thats cool!

The ZZ4 used a 58cc chamber, aluminum head derived from the mid 80s corvette. In order to get it to run, GM used a huge 0.051" thick head gasket (that number might be slightly different). You cant really use a thinner gasket without needing to change a lot of things to make it run, especially in the climate there, and with street gasoline. So, make sure you use a head gasket of similar thickness. I might consider a specialized torque converter if budget allows; it'd be a nice upgrade for driveability and performance.
 

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Looks like your zz4 is the one piece rear main seal engine and if you get a regular non zz4 kit then your intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets might not be the right ones but you can buy a set of gaskets separate from a complete kit. I just buy the gaskets separate for my build and the cost is not much different. Here is a complete kit for a zz4

Theres a couple things of note with that gasket set.
1) It lacks the timing cover gasket
2) the intake manifold gaskets are specified as Vortec; I'm not sure if they'll fit the earlier intake manifold or not

Heres an itemized list of contents:
 

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I’m assuming the engine is apart and an overhaul gasket set is needed.

Basically the 880 block is an L31 Vortec. These came with a one piece rear seal and have the roller cam provisions. There are two variations one being the 1995 version used for the LO5 engine and I’m pretty sure your ZZ4 which retained the small coolant pump bypass hole under the right mounting horn of the pump. The second version does not have this feature it was eliminated on the 1996-2002 production L31. This is something you need to inspect for.

The Fast Burn head uses essentially a modified L31 intake gasket since the head will accept either the standard or Vortec bolt pattern but the head uses the taller Vortec port. GM 19301685 or Fel Pro 375-1289 are specific and accept either the standard or Vortec bolt pattern and fit the port location and sizing of these heads.

GM used and specifies head gasket part number 10224200 on the ZZ4 it is .051/,053 inch thick. You can improve compression and squish/quench by using GM part number 10168457 or 14096405. Both are .026/.028 inch thick, they are stainless faced on one side and graphite on the other.

The bottom end is more similar gasket wise to the 1987 thru 1995 LO5, 350 engine where pan, timing cover, front and rear seals, and distributor are concerned with the added need for a fuel pump gasket

This engine is something of a PIA when it comes to gaskets.

Bogie
 

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Thanks for putting the notation about the other gaskets on that kit. I questioned but I did not know exactly what to put down. That is why I always buy most of my gaskets separate from kits as most of the time I can't get everything of what I need in a kit as my build is a different match on some gaskets. You can run into problems once anything is outside of all factory stuff on the sbc since you can change out parts from many years to the next.
 

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Basically the 880 block is an L31 Vortec. These came with a one piece rear seal and have the roller cam provisions. There are two variations one being the 1995 version used for the LO5 engine and I’m pretty sure your ZZ4 which retained the small coolant pump bypass hole under the right mounting horn of the pump. The second version does not have this feature it was eliminated on the 1996-2002 production L31. This is something you need to inspect for.

Bogie
Glad you brought that up. Several years ago I built a 355 using a 880 block from a 1997 L31 engine. Also used new GM 062 Vortec heads and a new AC Delco water pump which, as I recall, was the correct part number for a 97 L31.

When I got the engine running, I had a problem with air in the cooling system. It was most noticeable in the cab where I could occasionally hear gurgling noises in the heater core and heater hoses. At times I could also hear and even feel (!) air running through a heater hose in the engine compartment!

My efforts to fix the problem included installing a later model coolant recovery tank on top of the inner fender, so that it was the highest point in the system. At first that seemed to be the solution, because cracking open the rad cap when the engine was hot sent all kinds of air bubbles up to, and then out of the recovery tank vent. But that didn't fix the problem 100%. I even tried evacuating the cooling system and then letting the vacuum pull coolant back in. But the problem with that was the radiator hoses collapsed from the vacuum. Always meant to get a pair of hoses that wouldn't collapse, but never did.

Anyway, do you have any idea what would have caused the problem? Never had that problem before, even with multiple 880 blocks (possible earlier ones). But this was the first time I used Vortec heads and a long water pump. I don't have the vehicle anymore, so can't really experiment with it, but the problem still haunts me! (Insert ghost icon here!)
 

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My responses in bold type.

Glad you brought that up. Several years ago I built a 355 using a 880 block from a 1997 L31 engine. Also used new GM 062 Vortec heads and a new AC Delco water pump which, as I recall, was the correct part number for a 97 L31.

The 1998 L31 would use the pump with many pressed in external plumbing tubes which is unique to the fuel injection this engine mounts.
Image 1 - Water Pump For 1996-2002 Chevy Express 3500 5.7L V8 L31 VIN: R 2001 1998 B662ZP
Is this what you used?

From this view the tube on the left is the coolant return, the tube on the right is the pressure source. I usually use the 87-95 pump plugging the bypass hole for L31 to carb conversions. This does require a bit of shimming as that pump is a little different depth than the L31 but this is minor in nature. For V-belt installs I drop back to the 1968-1986 long pump with a bypass plug.
When I got the engine running, I had a problem with air in the cooling system. It was most noticeable in the cab where I could occasionally hear gurgling noises in the heater core and heater hoses. At times I could also hear and even feel (!) air running through a heater hose in the engine compartment!

My efforts to fix the problem included installing a later model coolant recovery tank on top of the inner fender, so that it was the highest point in the system. At first that seemed to be the solution, because cracking open the rad cap when the engine was hot sent all kinds of air bubbles up to, and then out of the recovery tank vent. But that didn't fix the problem 100%. I even tried evacuating the cooling system and then letting the vacuum pull coolant back in. But the problem with that was the radiator hoses collapsed from the vacuum. Always meant to get a pair of hoses that wouldn't collapse, but never did.

Anyway, do you have any idea what would have caused the problem? Never had that problem before, even with multiple 880 blocks (possible earlier ones). But this was the first time I used Vortec heads and a long water pump. I don't have the vehicle anymore, so can't really experiment with it, but the problem still haunts me! (Insert ghost icon here!)
Bogie
 

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I’ll put my comments in bold type.

Found this on a list of parts I used:

AC Delco 251-544, GM 88894341

It did not have any tubes. It did have a threaded port angled rearwards on top of the drivers side which you can see in this photo. I plugged it.

GM88894341 is the 1968-1986 long pump for V-belts, which means its impeller is scrolled for clockwise rotation. If this basic block is the A version of the 880 casting the bypass hole under the right side pump leg is drilled and mates with that hole in the pump. This same pump casting was used for the 1986-1995 serpentine drive pumps but has an impeller scrolled for counter clockwise rotation which drives a different part number. These two pumps will physically interchange but malfunction when matched to the wrong belt drive in that the scroll is in the wrong direction for the drive to the end that this really bashes the coolant to a froth and movement through the engine is greatly reduced so you get a lot of surging, bubbles, and high temps.

The fitting location on the top of the pump is for external bypass return to the inlet side of the pump. GM doesn’t always use this there are models that return to a fitting on the cold side radiator tank or to a T fitting in the radiator to pump inlet hose. The 1996-2002 L30 and L31 Vortec V8’s use a pump with two pressed in tubes sticking out each side of the top of the pump. These feed and return coolant used to heat intake air and provide bypass through the cabin heater, the internally cored bypass from right side head to block to pump is discontinued. You can still use the older long style pump whether 68-86 clockwise or 86-95 counter clockwise depending on Vee or serpentine drive if you’re not using the factory production EFI but here you need to be sure the pump bypass hole is not going to leak. And if you use a 96-02 pump on a pre96 block you need to be sure the bypass hole of the block won’t leak coolant.

The front most passage you have taped on the intake is for using the external bypass without a cabin heater, it would directly tie the pressurized coolant return on the front on the manifold to the return fitting that would reside on top of the pump. By “pressurized” I mean under pump force not cap pressure. Typically factory returns either tap for pressure side at either the front or rear passenger side, that you taped in over in the picture, as the cabin heater bypass which returns to the top of the pump. There being no forward short circuit bypass on production intakes as yours has. My builds except for serious competition builds always use an external bypass as I the factory drilling simply isn’t large enough to provide sufficient coolant flow much above idle when the thermostat is closed.

The four taped ports, 2 forward and 2 at the rear, on performance intakes (not all have these) are for 4 corner return. This is typical of competition engines where either the block and head or just the head carry modifications* to increase coolant flow in the middle of the head to give priority to cooling the adjacent exhaust valves and their seats. This is a high failure area on competition engines that most often leads to blowing the head gasket between these center cylinders; this, also, leads to valve and seat failures and head casting cracking. It, also, improves coolant flow across the hotter rear cylinder’s head area reducing their tendency to detonate compared to the forward cylinders. This does come at the cost of running the front cylinders a little too cool, but their loss of efficiency is less a problem than burning the centered head gasket and or valves and or detonating cylinders 7 and 8.

*These modifications take the form of increasing the size of the transfer passage of block, head, and head gasket whichever needs it to all of these parts that is required to make this the major flow from block to head to take the heat out of this area. Another contribution to this area is to drill and tap the head in the center between these valve seats and drill and tap each coolant pump leg for hose fittings that allow an external coolant feed You will see some aftermarket pumps that have a boss cast in them for this purpose.




View attachment 618892
The bold type above is my response. It is aimed more to engines that are worked hard whether in daily occupations or for high performance applications. GM addressed this in work-a-day engines by derating them and ignored it in showroom floor performance models. In street illegal speed exhibition the period of endeavor is not long enough to be consequential and that holds for the weekend drag racer. If, however, you take these motors into serious extended racing cooling these center exhausts gets to be an issue that must be addressed.

Bogie
 
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