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I have a 62 Pontiac which uses a generator. I am swapping the original 6 inline(gasp!) for a SBC. Will an HEI distributor with MSD6 work with the original generator? Should I switch to an alternator? What are the pros and cons? If I should/need to switch to an alternator, what is involved, wiring wise? I heard that I will need to run more wires and switch the polarity? Does this make any sense? Thanks.
 

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Alt. is the only way to go!!
There are many comments on this subject, Simple, simple operation after you have the brackets and alternator!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you point me in the right direction? Do you have any links where it explains the procedure?
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Here is a Company that makes Alternators From stock replacement Generator Casings...
Genernator

These require no reinventing of the "Wheel" and bolt straight in on your stock mounts...AND still looks stock.

Just email or call with your data, and I'm sure he can set you up..


Doc :pimp:
 

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Hi mrl......Welcome to the board. I also have a 62, which I converted over to an alternator, with built in regulator. I left the original regulator on the rad support just so it would look right. All I had to do was move one wire on the regulator to another position, which basiclly bypassed it. It charges fine. When you are ready, I can take a picture of the regulator and compare it with yours.

BTW, I take it yours is a Canadian Pontiac..........got any pics of it you can post?

Also, Doc....if it is a Canadian car, the wiring diagram for a Chevy would be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1962 Stratochief

Yeah, it's a 1962 Stratochief, 4 doors, unfortunately, but more convenient to load up the two dogs on the back seat! I'd really like to have pics of the conversion, at your convenience.
I only have pics of when I first bought it, and trust me, back then it did not look very good! Since then, I have stripped it down, redid the body/floor and had it sprayed with the proper Yuma Beige. The guy I bought it from had 14" mags on it :confused: , which are WAY too small for that big boat. I was thinking of putting on 17" Cragar s/s'(with the spinner caps) wrapped with Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3's :thumbup: . Of course, I have alot more stuff to do to the car before I get to the wheels and tires! Once all this is done, I'll post pics. Yours looks great BTW.
 

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Thanks...keep working on it. Mine came a long ways too.....I restored it around 1990. Here what it looked like when I got it.

Will take some pics in the morning.
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Here is the diagram for installing a 3 wire , Internally regulated 12SI Alternator and bypassing the The Old regulator using the stock wires..



That should be the same, It is for Chevy..

Doc :pimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Please excuse the dumb question but can I still use the stock "generator" gauge in the dash or am I going to need an aftermarket "volt" gauge?
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Depends on the rating of the gauge, older generators usually were -30 - 0 - + 30 amps, a new alternator may well be up to 140 amps..so yes, you need to upgrade the gauge OR install a Voltage gauge (which is better, and safer than an amp gauge)

If the gauge is within the amp rating of the new charging system, then no change is needed.

Doc :pimp:
 

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docvette said:
Doc here, :pimp:

Depends on the rating of the gauge, older generators usually were -30 - 0 - + 30 amps, a new alternator may well be up to 140 amps..so yes, you need to upgrade the gauge OR install a Voltage gauge (which is better, and safer than an amp gauge)

If the gauge is within the amp rating of the new charging system, then no change is needed.

Doc :pimp:
I think I am going to get a volt gauge anyways, but how would I know if the old generator gauge is within the amp rating of the new charging system?
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Well, If it Say's -30 ~ 0 ~ +30 on the gauge, and you installed a new alternator, Chances are about 99% it is NOT within range..

Most new alternators start out about 63 amps Full load output...There ARE a few still out there from the early days that are 38 amps..but are rare as new replacement parts..

I would assume yours is at least 63 amps..to be sure if you wish, you CAN take down the casting number and take it to your local parts guy and have him look it up..But in general, I'd bet it's within the 63 to 100 amp window.

Volt gauge is by far a better deal..No high current wires under the dash to short out, and no shunt to open and disable the car if the gauge ever fails. Simple hook up, just fused, switched power, and a properly bonded ground and your done..A little "Re~education" on how to read the gauge for trouble and you have a better mouse~trap.

Doc :pimp:
 

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and on top of all this----it is not a matter of if the AMP gage fails----It is WHEN the gage fails-----

This can be ugly---start fires----

volt meter is the way to go

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok, thanks guys. BTW, my stock amp gauge does not have any numbers such as -30 or +30, it just has 4 lines with a D at the left(first line) and a C at the right(forth line) and is says GENERATOR below that.
 

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is the car running right now? if so, take it to a shop and have them hook up a VAT 40 to it, and apply 30 amps to it at first ( car running 2,000+ rpm of course ), amp gauge should show 30 amp draw, then have them apply more, tell them to check full output, which even for a generator, has the possibility of being 60 amp, so the gauge would work if it was, but more than likely, it's going to be a 30~0~30 gauge, if it's an in dash gauge, have it rescreened and changed to a voltmeter, company's do that. an MSD system can draw over 40 amps pretty regular, so your going to want at least a 63 amp alternator.
 

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docvette said:
Doc here, :pimp:

Here is the diagram for installing a 3 wire , Internally regulated 12SI Alternator and bypassing the The Old regulator using the stock wires..



That should be the same, It is for Chevy..

Doc :pimp:
Doc,

Thanks for all your info. I need to buy an alternator. According to your diagram, you are recommending a SI series, 3 wire, internal regular alternator. Is there such a thing as too much amperage from an alternator, like a 140 amp? What amp output should I get for my alternator. It's an older car without too many circuits, but the ignition will either be HEI with MSD or Mallory Unilite. No A/C. Electric fuel pump. Carbureted. Let me know if you need more info.

Thanks.
 

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mrl said:
Doc,

Thanks for all your info. I need to buy an alternator. According to your diagram, you are recommending a SI series, 3 wire, internal regular alternator.

Is there such a thing as too much amperage from an alternator, like a 140 amp? What amp output should I get for my alternator.


It's an older car without too many circuits, but the ignition will either be HEI with MSD or Mallory Unilite. No A/C. Electric fuel pump. Carbureted. Let me know if you need more info.

Thanks.
Doc here, :pimp:

63/70 amp is a cost effective choice if your going to just run a stock system with an HEI..

A Standard Delco 3 wire , Internally regulated, SI series should Suit your needs just fine..

Lot's of guys believe the Alternator is going to put out 140 amps EVERY time the pulley turns..because it says 140 amps..Not so...

The regulator controls this, It will only put out what is needed to support the system, top off the battery, then shut off..until charge is needed again..then the cycle begins again. Were it to run wide open full time, you'd fry the battery..

No, you can't Really "Over Amp" the system..again the regulator (if working) prevents this from happening..

What you CAN over tax is your wallet...

A stock alternator Can be had at auto zombie for 63/70 amps for about $39.00 and a core..

Price a powermaster 130/140 amp..your in the $299.00 range...Nice to have BUT you don't really need it .. for your application..I'd rather tuck some of that money away for more goodies like headers..or other "candy" ..

Gee.. the way it's going now..you might be able to use it to fill the tank one time with the "Good Stuff"... :pain:


Doc :pimp:
 
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